Advice needed..

Old 05-05-2013, 02:13 PM
  #16  
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Yea I replaced the bullet plugs twice think that was the case. Wire seems fine.

What site is a good place to buy online?
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:31 PM
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Rcmart.com and hobbyking.com are a good starting point. HK has a Australian warehouse with $8.99 shipping.

Last edited by Fredp1; 05-05-2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:18 PM
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If it is just the one connection having the issue, then it is that connection that is the problem.

Does the wire get as hot as the connector? If not then the wire is not the source of the problem.

The general rule of turning electrical energy into radiant energy is that in a circuit, where ever there is a restriction to the flow of electrons, heat will be produced. I would then assume that the plug or contact surface of the plug or socket is not up to scratch.

If you have had a bad plug in use previously, you could have arced inside the battery connector, and caused poor connection with the new plug, making the same fault.

If it was just over current, it would be both connections (both + and - connections carry the same load, as they are the same circuit)
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:32 PM
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Your actually making a lot of
Sense. I have soldered on 3 new bullet plugs to the negative terminal and still the same issue? Should I replace the whole wire? The positive is fine. It does not over heat...
What way would you attack this problem as it needs to be fixed and hopefull befor I spend 300 on a new motor n esc combo
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Anths22 View Post
Your actually making a lot of
Sense. I have soldered on 3 new bullet plugs to the negative terminal and still the same issue? Should I replace the whole wire? The positive is fine. It does not over heat...
What way would you attack this problem as it needs to be fixed and hopefull befor I spend 300 on a new motor n esc combo
There is only 1 way you have have the issue you are facing, and that is there is a short on the negative side of the circuit leading to high resistance on the negative side of the circuit, it could be in the wire, esc or motor, but somewhere there is a short. If it was a pure load issue by pulling too many amps, then both sides of the battery will be facing the same problem of heat.

A common cause of this is not wiring up the motor and esc correctly, ignore the wire colours and make sure they are wired up A-> A, B-> B, C-> C
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:05 PM
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Actually, you can't have a short on one side... A short is a short circuit between 2 poles of a power supply, in this case it is the battery.

In this case ALL of the power that is going through the Negative terminal will also be going through the positive terminal - It can't have more power going through one side than the other - It is just not possible with a battery, there is nowhere else for the power to travel to, or from, to create a short circuit.

I would personally, clean out the inside of the battery terminals with some very fine rolled up sand paper, just enough to clean not scrape the surface, and then check that you bullet plugs you are using make good contact inside. Some bullet plugs don't give much of a surface contact, and that could be the cause of the Problem. Good quality ones will have the spring/contact part made so almost the entire length is firmly in contact with the socket. Many others will only have a few points of contact, which at high currents, creates a restriction in flow, therefore - Heat.

Buy some good quality connectors before looking at replacing the esc.
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:15 PM
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I did buy good connectors. Could it be a blown capacitor?
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:40 PM
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If it was anything but the connector, such as load, or a short, it would have the same effect on both sides.

A capacitor stores power, and smooths out the current flow on demand because they charge and discharge faster than a battery. You should notice on sudden acceleration if it wasn't working. When you plug you battery in, and the switch off, you will/ should notice a spark/pop - This is the capacitor charging.

Last edited by kiwitim; 05-05-2013 at 11:12 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:31 PM
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Ok I'm confused now. What should I check/replace
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kiwitim View Post
Actually, you can't have a short on one side... A short is a short circuit between 2 poles of a power supply, in this case it is the battery.
Wrong, but technically correct in that I used the wrong terminology, i should have said opened not short in some part of the negative side of the circuit.

High amp draw will lead to heating of both sides of the circuit, this is not happening, it is only happening on the negative, something is not earthing correctly in the motor or the esc which leads to high resistance on the negative side of the circuit, thus the heating of the negative terminal on the battery.

So, either the esc or the motor is buggered, or has been wired in wrong, A on the esc to A on the motor etc. Change out the motor and see which one it is, because it is either the motor or the esc causing it.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Anths22 View Post
Ok I'm confused now. What should I check/replace
If you have a spare motor, try that first, it is the easiest thing to check and replace. If it still does it, then the esc is the cause.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:30 PM
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I'm not wrong.

The fact is, it does not matter what happens in the middle of a circuit, it will effect both sides equally. That is why it's called a circuit, all the power passes through both sides. If it didn't, then try running your car with only the positive plugged in.

The negative connection for some reason or another is the weakest point in the circuit, if it wasn't the heat would be generating from somewhere else.

I am not saying that the ESC or motor are not faulty, but pointing out that the heat issue IS due to a bad connection. The motor/esc may be faulty, and highlighting the connector issue.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:46 AM
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Ok pulled apart what I could of the motor... Pinion grub is screwed so had a look inside to see what I could and there was a fair bit of dirt ect in there? Could that be the cause? Also befor doing this I tested the car on the street and went up 25m and back full throttle and it was already warm on the negative side. Positive was ok but did notice the wires coming from the motor to be warm aswell. None of them should have been warm its quiet cold ATM and running the car for 50m is what 5 seconds tops? Also did notice that it was very gluggy on low speed take up and slow to break? Is the gluggy low speed start from the 10 pole or is it not normal?

I also don't have another motor to test as I have it away.. I think my drive train and gearing is fine if not perfect... It's not to high with a pinion gear of only 14.

The connection points are all pretty good from what I can tell (amature) but I did get the LHS to re solder it on the weekend which it happened again any way...

When I spin motor by hand with the pinion it has 12 stops to a full rotation. Not sure if this info helps but I'm desperate.

Could it be the dirt inside the motor causing friction? Could I have damaged the solder point inside of the esc negative terminal?
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:22 AM
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Post some pictures, of the motor, the esc, the wiring, the battery connectors\, pretty much everything you can think of and post there here.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by kiwitim View Post
The fact is, it does not matter what happens in the middle of a circuit, it will effect both sides equally. That is why it's called a circuit, all the power passes through both sides. If it didn't, then try running your car with only the positive plugged in.
SO why is it not effecting both sides equally? Assuming we have the same type of bullet on both battery terminals, the same gauge wire on both sides.

I will tell you, it is because the draw of electrons from the negative is greater than the return of electrons to the positive. Even in a simple circuit of - R + what is happening in the + side is different to the - side.

Think on this in terms of a highway at peak hour, electrons flow out of the - terminal get backed up behind the resistance, or cars before a crash, then are freed after the choke point moving back into the + terminal.

So, if you are drawing electrons from the - and loosing a lot of them before they reach the + you end up with heat on the - and nothing on the +. So somewhere in the system, electrons are being lost, producing no work, and so is drawing huge loads but putting nothing back in on the + side. An open circuit will do this, by giving a huge spike in resistance which wastes electrons as heat.

Something is broken, either the esc or the motor.
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