sosidge

Any thoughts on using this for RC parts? Thinking of using it for some crawler parts that are prone to breaking when made in standard PLA.

two shoes

iTrader: (21)

I'm pretty impressed with eSun PLA+ and taking a step to "iron" it helps with external layer bonding. The layup would play a big part in strength. I keep thinking about making some 12th scale side links with it.

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

Can vouch for the Esun PLA+ also.. I have also had good results with Overture PLA Pro..

SuperFastSnail

iTrader: (82)

Guys, what's a good 3D printer for $1,500 or less. I saw some going for $5K but I'm only going to spend that kind of money if it can print 2nd Amendment stuff for me. For now I'm only looking to do cheap parts for RC related.

two shoes

iTrader: (21)

The Creality End 3 line should print anything iteration of FMDA and it's less than $400... Grab some PLA+ in the color of your choice and you should be G2G. You can add extenders to increase build plate X, Y & Z axis and it's still less than $700 (well less)

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

Like 2 shoes says no need to spend that kind of coin.. standard old ender 3 or e-3 clone for around $200 will print 2-A stuff just fine.. If you want to do it in something other than PLA+ like ABS or ASA then its under $150 in bolt on parts for the all metal hot end to handle it and a basic tent style enclosure.. But in my 2-A research most guys are printing in PLA+ so just setting up in a temp stable room with no drafts is sufficient..

petersen114

flashforge are pretty good printers. I have the guider 2 which cost me a little over $800. It’s a fully enclosed printer RTR with a 280x250x300 build volume and is fully enclosed. Although if you want to print beyond PETG you will need the high temp nozzle or go with a all metal hot end, especially with abrasives like cf infused filaments, etc.

mossman2

iTrader: (5)

My dad just bought the Prusa and is very impressed with it. This is his first, but he has some buddies with some $2k printers and they are questioning the advantages. I think it was in the $800 range.

SuperFastSnail

iTrader: (82)

Too many choices, just have to buy them all I guess.

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

Research the differences between PL and PETG then use that to think about the part you wanna print.
PLA is hydroscopic and will warp from heat/sunlight.
PETG is a bit more forgiving in those areas and stronger layer adhesion for torsional forces.

What parts for a crawler?

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

I have found that Petg is terrible for most RC parts because its way to flexible so you have to design the parts way beefier with more material just to reduce flex. And PETG is WAAAYY more hygroscopic than PLA..

roadrashracing2

I've been trying this stuff and seems to be working well so far. Prints easy and comes out nice.
https://vo3d.us/

cryofix

iTrader: (11)

Bambu Labs P1P, you are welcome.

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

yeah was thinking about that , will be waiting till they get the bugs ironed out.. and if you think there are no bugs , check the bambu pages on FB .. they are already on V3 of the AMS.. will be waiting to see how they stabilize before I drop that much coin.. Kinda like waiting to buy the revision of a newly released car platform.