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Making Tires with 3D Printed Molds

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Making Tires with 3D Printed Molds

Old 04-09-2023, 02:42 PM
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Along the same subject as printing/molding tires, I noticed there are files for printing inserts for crawler wheels. Maybe this can be applied to buggy tires too?
Just a thought
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Old 04-10-2023, 05:49 AM
  #122  
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Currently printing...
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Old 04-10-2023, 07:17 AM
  #123  
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Carpet season is over and outdoor dirt season has started again. It's time to pick up where I left off last fall with this tread pattern:




I designed and printed the mold for these tires back in September/October but never got to use them due to the demolding issues I was having at the time. It was interesting using one of my old molds - interesting in that it was a complete pain in the ass! It was a good reminder of the progress I've made. This mold is going in the bin and I'll be printing a new one using my latest mold design.

These tires were made using an 82:18 mixture of VF60:SFII. My spreadsheet says the shore rating should be somewhere around a 34A. In my hands, the compound feels a tad more firm than the JC green tires I use. The inserts are JC black close cell inserts that I've punched and V-trimmed the inner ribs.

These things are significantly faster than my green JC DDv2's on my basement track which is smooth bare concrete. If the weather is good I'll be able to test them at the track on Saturday. Of all the dirt tires I've made so far, I feel like these have the best chance of actually working well, and if they don't I still have room to make the compound softer.

And speaking of compound, I've learned two key points about these resins since the last time I tried making outdoor dirt tires: 1) the resins continue to cure after demolding and 2) old resins that have been opened and exposed to the air do not cure to as hard of a shore rating as brand new resins. When I make tires now I make sure to use an inert gas to protect opened bottles of resin so it doesn't age a quickly and cures more consistently, and I use a heated post cure for a day or two so when I mount and run a tires it is at its final hardness.
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Old 04-10-2023, 10:11 AM
  #124  
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One thing I can say already that curing process also continue over time for the Flex resin UV printed tires as well... And they becomes slightly softer over time...
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Old 04-10-2023, 11:35 AM
  #125  
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I ran the Samurai this afternoon for about 10 minutes... The tires grips and the behavior of the car is just normal... Full throttle, braking, turning, everything is as normal tires...
https://youtu.be/dk-0mQ2mNKs

The tires still look good after the 10 minutes run...


Conclusion : 3D Printed tires are viable...
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Old 04-11-2023, 05:28 AM
  #126  
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I've been wanting a vibrating table for a while because I still occasionally get air bubbles. I think a vibrator table would do the trick but I didn't want to buy one - the cheapest I could find was $50 on Amazon. So I made one using a spare 380 motor I had sitting around and two simple 3D prints!



This thing is capable of shaking my whole work bench quite violently! If this doesn't help the air bubbles vent out of the mold, I don't know what will. Early results look promising so far, but only time will tell if this has permanently solved my air bubble problem.
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Old 04-11-2023, 06:21 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick
This thing is capable of shaking my whole work bench quite violently!
Sounds like my X1C when it is printing... Did not thought about vibrations, but this is good idea...
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Old 04-11-2023, 03:24 PM
  #128  
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The last print was finished yesterday...


I did a mistake when doing the slicing, and the result is that my red marking is not really visible, because behind a white layer (I should have done slightly differently - I'll know for next time) : I had to use a red permanent marker to make the marking visible... I will review the injector based on the hardware I find and due to the tolerances : this printer prints are much more accurate, so I can decrease the tolerances for the clearance... This will be a bit of work, but It's on the good path... The target is to use Vitaflex bicomponent resin with black colorant and a shore of 50A...The tire will be molded in two halves and assembled after that...

I also need to prepare some prints for the second candidate resin. The one I printed the tires for the Samurai and Ninja is fine for those usage, but the tires of the Hunter, Galaxy and Super Wheelies are acturally softer... So this makes the case to print Hunter tires... They will be my next test... The rear tire won't present any difficulties based on the acquired experience on the Samurai and Ninja...


But it is another story for the fronts...
My first positionning of the Hunter tires would not work : the lines are not supported and it is also the case for the internal ring...

I changed the angle to 45 and included supports everywhere...

This is better but there will be work to get it cleaned after...

As part of the test cases I want to tackle next in 3D prints :
- Marui Hunter and Galaxy (the difference is the side markings :-) - shore 55A
- Marui Super Wheelie - Shore 55A
- Hirobo Zerda tires - Shore 55A
- a set of On-road tires for the Marui Coors with Shore around 45A. It won't be as per original design, and I'll try to tackle foam later on...
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Old 04-16-2023, 05:15 AM
  #129  
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This past Friday I got a chance to test my latest tires on dirt. Unfortunately they just couldn't keep up with the JC green DDv2's. They felt like the wrong compound which isn't surprising because they cured to a slightly firmer feel than the JC green rubber. They weren't terrible on the track and aside from being loose they didn't have any other noticeable driving oddities or defects so I think if I can just get them softer they'll work.
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Old 04-16-2023, 08:54 AM
  #130  
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Based on the resins I could find available easily, the shore are maybe too a bit too high for racing purpose. For running old school cars, this seems to be enough (and I may say that just because I'm not a pilot, but just a casual driver)...

That being said, the first test with the second candidate resin (55A) just finished. The print looks nice. I'm going to wash it and UV-Cure it, and we will see. But I'm lauching a second print right away, and it will be followed as soon as possible with a set of fronts, so I can test them (I have multiple sample of those cars, but a limited number of tires, and I did not dare running any of them due to the rarity of those tires from 1984... I have to get a full set to test it...
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Old 04-16-2023, 12:59 PM
  #131  
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Post processing was done. First a bath of IPA Alcoohol (not a fresh one), then remove the supports, then another bath with clean IPA; the two baths with agitation. Nex was drying with air compressor outside, inside, outside again...
Then I let it dry alone for 30 minutes again... I only had an issue while drying with the air compressor : the tire escaped my hands and ran on the dirty ground of the garage : I made all I can to remove the traces, but there was still a bit of dirt at the end of the drying (the tire was still sticky when the problem appeared).

For UV cure, it's precised on the the manufacturer website that once the tire is dry, it is better to put it in a jar of water (unless you can do this in notrogen) for the first few minutes of UV exposition. I put the tire in water and exposed for 5 minutes, then dry it again and 25 minutes UV without water... I also exposed the inside later on with a Led ribbon powered on USB...


Here is the tire... You may see the traces resulting of the dirt escape of the tire...


I can tell you the softness is really close to the one from the original tire... Aspect of the thread is really nice... I don't show the supported side, it's definitely not as good...


And rims are ready... It may not do it for a shelf. But I'm looking forward to see how close/far they are from the original used on different grounds, specially considering it looks very very very close from the original tires in terms of shore...

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Old 04-16-2023, 04:14 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by silvertriple
Post processing was done. First a bath of IPA Alcoohol (not a fresh one), then remove the supports, then another bath with clean IPA; the two baths with agitation. Nex was drying with air compressor outside, inside, outside again...
Then I let it dry alone for 30 minutes again... I only had an issue while drying with the air compressor : the tire escaped my hands and ran on the dirty ground of the garage : I made all I can to remove the traces, but there was still a bit of dirt at the end of the drying (the tire was still sticky when the problem appeared).

For UV cure, it's precised on the the manufacturer website that once the tire is dry, it is better to put it in a jar of water (unless you can do this in notrogen) for the first few minutes of UV exposition. I put the tire in water and exposed for 5 minutes, then dry it again and 25 minutes UV without water... I also exposed the inside later on with a Led ribbon powered on USB...


Here is the tire... You may see the traces resulting of the dirt escape of the tire...


I can tell you the softness is really close to the one from the original tire... Aspect of the thread is really nice... I don't show the supported side, it's definitely not as good...


And rims are ready... It may not do it for a shelf. But I'm looking forward to see how close/far they are from the original used on different grounds, specially considering it looks very very very close from the original tires in terms of shore...
What resins have you been using for tires? I've been doing a lot of stuff on my Mars 2 lately and might try some tires are some point soon.
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Old 04-17-2023, 12:38 PM
  #133  
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This was this morning :
Second and third print attempts with the same file failed... I may have been very lucky with the first one, as both failed in the same area (well not exactly 85% puis 75%)...


I used a 50s exposure to quickly removed the polymerized resin from the VAT and be able to launch a new print right away...

Not sure why the first print worked and not the following... Talking with friends more used to resin printing than myself, this happens sometimes when you have slicing too challenging...

And before going to the office, I launched another print, with different orientation... It failed again... My son (in vacation currently) was kind enough to send me a picture after the lunch...
First fail : 85%
Second fail : 75%
Third fail : 30% (not the same file).

Conclusion something is wrong. And it doesn't seem to be the build platform levelling, neither the resin. And it should not be exposure as the first print was perfect, further UV exposure works as I can use it to perform a clean VAT... Something other affects the system. Temperature is out of question as I'm running the heater in the chamber, and I didn't change anything in the settings.

That maybe the FEP. Went back home, emptied and filter the VAT, used IPA to clean it, and the material...
The FEP still looks good... But, I took an app on Android to measure frequencies : the frequency given bac by the FAP is about 260Hz, which mean it is probably too low... As matter of fact about the causes I can find for my problem, one is FEP not tight enough... As matter of fact, everywhere I find it should be around 325Hz... And flex resin is highly stressing the FEP... So this might be my cultprit... I'm incline to replace and launch another print, but will still search for alternative solutions before that...

Originally Posted by RogueIV
What resins have you been using for tires? I've been doing a lot of stuff on my Mars 2 lately and might try some tires are some point soon.
The first resin I tried was Resione F80, I mentioned it earlier in the thread. I hold on for the second one until I solve the issue...
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Old 04-20-2023, 07:35 AM
  #134  
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Holy cow I just found this and read through most on Nick's posts and the progress!!! Nicely done sir. Has any tried this on 8th scale? Iv designed a wheel im about to test and was thinking about making tires too eventually.




I'd love to learn about making the molds In Fusion 360 if that's what you use. I seen the videos but have not watched them yet. ty for all the info on this thread!
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Old 04-22-2023, 03:02 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by silvertriple
This was this morning :
Second and third print attempts with the same file failed... I may have been very lucky with the first one, as both failed in the same area (well not exactly 85% puis 75%)...


I used a 50s exposure to quickly removed the polymerized resin from the VAT and be able to launch a new print right away...

Not sure why the first print worked and not the following... Talking with friends more used to resin printing than myself, this happens sometimes when you have slicing too challenging...

And before going to the office, I launched another print, with different orientation... It failed again... My son (in vacation currently) was kind enough to send me a picture after the lunch...
First fail : 85%
Second fail : 75%
Third fail : 30% (not the same file).

Conclusion something is wrong. And it doesn't seem to be the build platform levelling, neither the resin. And it should not be exposure as the first print was perfect, further UV exposure works as I can use it to perform a clean VAT... Something other affects the system. Temperature is out of question as I'm running the heater in the chamber, and I didn't change anything in the settings.

That maybe the FEP. Went back home, emptied and filter the VAT, used IPA to clean it, and the material...
The FEP still looks good... But, I took an app on Android to measure frequencies : the frequency given bac by the FAP is about 260Hz, which mean it is probably too low... As matter of fact about the causes I can find for my problem, one is FEP not tight enough... As matter of fact, everywhere I find it should be around 325Hz... And flex resin is highly stressing the FEP... So this might be my cultprit... I'm incline to replace and launch another print, but will still search for alternative solutions before that...


The first resin I tried was Resione F80, I mentioned it earlier in the thread. I hold on for the second one until I solve the issue...
Replaced the FEP this morning. FEP frequency is about 360Hz, now. I will restart test prints...
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