Dave_S

Just curious as to what equipment and software people are using.


I've been wanting to get into printing for a while, but haven't.

tcb22185

iTrader: (55)

sacmiata

iTrader: (27)

I just got into it myself about a month ago. I borrowed a 3D Robo R2 from work and liked it so i bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro

I am using Sketchup for modeling and playing around with Autodesk Fusion. After your model is done you need to "slice" it to create the tooling path (G-Code). I use a free software called CURA for that.

taylorsizemore

iTrader: (5)

Dave_S

Thanks for the input everyone!

antibala

Hello,

i use a Zortrax M200. It has a own slicing software.

This printer uses ABS. I use by holes offset in above 10 mm: 0,4 mm

Most commonly i use the 0.19 mm layer hight. It's enough smooth for the surfaces which have fuction.
Above that you always have to polish with sand paper.

Balázs

johnnydmd

I have an el-cheapo XYZ Davinci Jr 2.0, which doesn't do too bad for simple, small things. The only issue I have is the spools are often sent with the counter not being reset after winding. Aggravating as hell, because the only thing you can do is buy a new counter card, or you lose half of your spool.

I use Simplify3D for slicing, pretty good program.

Speed Chaser

iTrader: (4)

Dave 3d printing is one of those things you have to go into headfirst, you will get a billion right answers, look at 3d printer profiles, for example, one profile may make beautiful parts for someone but will result in a terrible part for another. Then if you bought a turd you'll be forced into tinkering with it which will help you understand your machine, its capability and overall you'll get a better understanding of the hobby. My workhorse is a cr-10 that thing doesn't give up in all the years I had it the only real thing I had go bad with it was the heat bed. I also have a genius Prusa, good printer but doesn't give you much tinkering ability as it is pretty much set and go. Also, have a cheap SLA printer, I thought I would use it more but haven't found many situations for using, plus not a big fan of working with the resin. Apart from that got a couple of other cheap Chinese printers, monoprice mp select mini v1(sold it), Mini Fabrikator V1 (stripped the electronics out of it and sold them and now just have the shell as a display), Panowin F1 (Basically the Kodama trinus, which was converted to experiment with food printing) and recently my latest addition was a monoprice mini delta (The deal for it was too good to pass up)

westendorfy

iTrader: (12)

ENder 3 with 3DS Max Pro and I use Ideamaker for the GCode. Works amazing so far and Ive only been printing for about a month. Im blown away at how good these little ender 3 units really are.

nikdfish

I have an Ender 3 that I picked up as an early Christmas gift to myself last year. It has had a few mods since then. One of the first was to burn a bootloader onto the stock controller so I could run Marlin firmware. After about 6 months, I went to an MKS Gen L controller board + RepRap Discount Smart Display primarily to get more memory to add additional features in Marlin.

I currently have a BL-Touch sensor mounted & UBL (Universal Bed Leveling) enabled. That is a mesh bed "leveling" system that can be run from the LCD menu. The mesh I use is based on 25 measurement points. My machine does a 3 point validation prior to each print to adjust the mesh to the current plane of the bed if needed (in case it was moved).

My print bed is boron glass resting on a 1mm silicon thermal pad with no clips. The pad is tacky enough to prevent any side to side movement but still allows the glass to be easily removed, needing only to break the suction at one corner to get it to come free.

I use a printed "Neustruder" for my extruder ( thingiverse thing # 2422803) with an E3D Hobb-Goblin drive gear. It has no trouble printing TPU at 50mm/sec.

My slicer is Cura, currently running version 4.3. The design package most frequently used it Tinkercad, although I do use OpenSCAD and Fusion 360 on occasion.

I use an enclosure made from 3 Ikea "LACK" tables, stacked, with the top one fitted with leg extensions. For the top segment, one side & the door are clear acrylic, the other two are covered by foam board. The underside of the enclosure top is fitted with LED strip lighting. I have a radial fan pulling a negative pressure on the enclosure, exhausting to a pair of stacked HEPA filter elements. The enclosure is also fitted with a smoke detector that is linked to a relay controlling power to the printer. If the alarm is triggered, the power is interrupted.

TheRulesLawyer

iTrader: (3)

FDM-
CR10

• e3d v6 hotend
• EZABL autolevel
• Titan extruder
• Duet wifi 2 control
• Slicer- Cura

Resin-
Anycubic Photon

• Stock!
• Slicer- Chitubox

Design

• Fusion 360
• Sculptris (https://pixologic.com/sculptris/emai...ing-system.php)
• oculus medium

I also have a really small CNC router(6x9 ish) that can cut aluminum if you're really careful, but it better on softer parts.

UsenetDude

Printer
Ender 3 pro
Carbon Tempered Glass Build Plate
Titan extruder
BLTouch Auto-Leveling
Octoprint on pi3
Slicer Cura

the_real_hova

iTrader: (4)

Prusa i3 (DIY pre-kit) with 10mm smooth rod upgrade.
I spend more time printing printer parts than anything else

evhexrc

iTrader: (2)

Ultimaker2+, 2+ Extended, or 3. I design things with Autodesk Inventor and use Ultimaker Cura to prepare and tweak the files for the printers.

jon003

iTrader: (4)

Ender 5 Quiet mod, glass plate, just PLA so far.
Micro swiss, and rolls of PC and NylonX are in the wishlist and I expect they'll probably come with Santa.

Fusion 360 + Cura.