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Matrials To Use for R/C Parts

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Matrials To Use for R/C Parts

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Old 07-13-2019, 04:03 AM   -   Wikipost
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Types of Filaments

State properties, strengths, weaknesses and best application within R/C.

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Old 08-12-2019, 04:38 PM
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I never knew you could even do this the 3D printer I seen work I guess was cheap wouldn’t trust to hold kids art work on the fridge. Really cool
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:19 PM
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I'm printing a body with Petg as we speak, the pla version was good for testing but did not hold up well.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tcb22185
I thought I would share what martials I use to make some of my R/C Parts that I make. I have Printed Stuff From Prototype 1/4 Sprint car. to car stands. Here are the Basics I have learned over the last few years. We will start with the most Common.

PLA- PLA Works great For Prototyping stuff I used it to Prototype a 1/4 scale sprint car for WCM Racing over last winter. I wouldn't suggest using it for parts that need to be strong ie A Arms, Bulk Heads. any of that stuff.. Another Down fall is it Warps in heat. so its no good to anything your going to make to use outside or a hot car.

PETG- This is my 2nd go to filament its Fairly easy to print. Not the strongest but does allow for some flex & give. Handles Heat outside well and in hot cars ok. I use this to make a lot of Radio Boxes, and most of my R/C Accessories I make are out of PETG.

PC+ This is one of the Strongest Filaments I use. its offered from Snolab3d Prints a lot like PETG But does need to be Dried before using. and Stored in a Dry Place. it cost a little bit more that PETG. it does not Flex near as much a PETG I use it for a lot of Production parts for WCM in there JP-55 Sprint Car. And I also use it on the rear bumpers I make for them. And use it for most of my charger stands I sell.

ABS- This is one of the hardest Filaments to print. you need to fully enclose your printer and keep it heated up to around 100c. One Down Fall to ABS is it stinks when its being printed. One Plus to it is its STRONG I use it a lot in my Top Wing mounts for the JP-55 Sprint Car

Im Working on Trying Nylon I haven't yet but I have a Roll. So I will let you guys know what I find out. I will also Post Pic's of some of the stuff I have printed.

Hope this helps

Tim B
This is awesome! A complementary guide with all the settings one might want to use with each material (for strength or prototyping speed) would be super helpful too!
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Old 10-14-2019, 12:05 PM
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I have used semi-flex TPU (95A) to print cleats for tracked vehicles. They handle running on pavement pretty well. 95A is not gooey soft like ninja-flex, it feels more like bicycle or car tire rubber. If you print with very little infill you can make objects with a fair amount of give. It would be good for shock absorbing bumpers. A thin sheet could probably make a decent waterproof sail material.
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Old 04-19-2023, 10:16 PM
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that's cool, wonder to know what printer you are using
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Old 04-20-2023, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by andreas78
Yes, as said before, if you want a perfect finish with Nylon, it needs to be as dry as it can be. But even PET-G and ABS should be dried again after a few weeks. I know that in many 3d printing forums people say, these don't need any drying. But have a look at the data sheets of manufacturers of these materials, that are also used for injection molding. They always recommend drying any plastics for a few hours.

I agree with this guy. I print ALOT with PETG its my main material. if you leave it out after about 40 hours it will start sizzling in the nozzle from the moisture burning off. You can hear it while printing, So if you store your filament just out in the normal air you need to dry it....

However what I do is store the PETG in a SEALED tote with a bunch of silica. I bought a big thing at home depot then just keep adding the little packs that come with the filament and that works great! Never have to dry (I dont have a dryer) and you can organize it with several totes if you keep that much filament on hand......

On the side of Nylon for those in Question it absolutely need heavy drying Nylon absorbs the moisture much faster than most other types of filaments.
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Old 04-20-2023, 06:40 AM
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lul this thread is dead nvm I wasted my time LOL
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Old 06-09-2023, 01:25 PM
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I like the tote with Silica packets method. Much more passive than going through the drying process in order to get another material going.

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Old 08-11-2023, 11:32 PM
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This is really nice and I would try this in my upcoming edition.
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