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Old 01-21-2010, 03:21 PM   #106
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Making the landing longer and flatter? It's short and steep and then totally flat. I never got to drive it when it was "fixed" so I can't answer how it was. It needs major tweaking, not minor. More dirt.



...
It was crap after you fixed it. I drove it, others drove it, and it was virtually impossible to land, and even if you did, you would bounce all the way to the corner and hit the piping, because you carried to much speed. The landing was harsh with nothing gradual about it. So what do you have in mind, because the last time you fixed it, you actually made it worse. The idea that was proposed, but time ran out on was adding more dirt to the front of the third jump, to make the landing longer, but not change the angle. Basically we were going to put enough dirt on the front of the jump to make the spacing between 2 and 3 the same as or close to 1 and 2. That is alot of dirt, but not a major tweaking, as we would not really change the shape of what is already there.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:34 PM   #107
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It was crap after you fixed it. I drove it, others drove it, and it was virtually impossible to land, and even if you did, you would bounce all the way to the corner and hit the piping, because you carried to much speed. The landing was harsh with nothing gradual about it. So what do you have in mind, because the last time you fixed it, you actually made it worse. The idea that was proposed, but time ran out on was adding more dirt to the front of the third jump, to make the landing longer, but not change the angle. Basically we were going to put enough dirt on the front of the jump to make the spacing between 2 and 3 the same as or close to 1 and 2. That is alot of dirt, but not a major tweaking, as we would not really change the shape of what is already there.

Sounds good, more dirt on the front of it. Sorry it was crap after I fixed it, and probably would have been even worse after the #1 face was made steeper.

We gotta think about the arc the buggies make, it's very high, so the landing should try to follow. Need to drive with someone videoing and getta good shot of several and try to build too match..does that make sense?
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:40 PM   #108
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........got past the brain fart and it is down to shocks and electronics, and a day warm enough to paint.

Jason you running the 5700? If so what pinion and spur did you start with
I started with a 19T I think and dropped to a 17T, and am running a 15T now. Trying to find a manageable speed. You drove it the other day with the 15T.
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:39 PM   #109
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Active conversation keeps people involved in the track, if the jump needs to be re-worked it will become apparent after a race or two.

Paulie, I am putting the DB-01 together box stock and see how it works but I would like to see what you did to the shocks. Thanks for the info and offer of parts.

For those interested, the ProLine Bowtie M3's seem to work really good on the dry track the other day, I know from past experience they are fantastic on a dmap tacky surface as well.

I want to run them on the 1/10 as well but they don't make them for the front, anybody run different tires front and rear?
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:44 PM   #110
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I started with a 19T I think and dropped to a 17T, and am running a 15T now. Trying to find a manageable speed. You drove it the other day with the 15T.
Did you have any temp issues with the 19 or 17t, I smoked checked this setup once by running it in the slash.......I knew it was getting hot but I couldn't stop. If you think the slash is fun stock.......try it with a Mamba Max. I don't want to go through the repair process agian, so I will show some restraint....if I must
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:15 PM   #111
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It's fun, and I'm just a baby...

The Slash is a heck of lot heavier than the DB01...
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:01 PM   #112
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Ken, I thought they were M2? The super soft AKA I beams(bowtie knockoff) show little to no wear after 2 days of play. The supe soft AKA city blocks on the other hand are getting tore up pretty good. I was running city block front and I beam rear, but developed a push from the wear, so I am now going to go with I beams on front and rear.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:50 PM   #113
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I went with soft city blocks up front and after 2 hours of driving they show hardly any wear. Ibeams in the back soft
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:56 AM   #114
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why are we all bickering? This is some he said she said Bullsh*t! Holy crap guys, nobody is perfect... you want a perfect smooth flowing track bring a pro in to build it. We are ameteurs, and our track is built as such. We learn from our design/build mistakes and when we all agree on a change, we make the changes.
No worries Josh. It's all in good fun. You should see how they mess with me in person. It's entertaining, to say the least, he he he. All this discussion helps us move forward. I have no doubt we have a fantastic facility, so I'm good with whatever...

But Jon, good buddy, you're killing me, ha ha ha:

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Oh and Paulie, we changed the run up to the triple on Ethan's suggestion and your agreemenet in post 145 and 146 in the old thread:

I like the crossover design and Paulie's sketch. My vote is for Paulie's sketch, but there must be enough of a run up to clear the triple. Just my opinion.


I agree about the tripple. If we ended up going with that sketch design, I'd also like to move the tripple to the left a little to allow proper run up.

- Paulie
Jon, read what you quoted, than read it again please.

My agreement was based on the SKETCH DESIGN, as stated above as you so pointed out, which was BEFORE you changed it and made the 180 turn after the main straight leading into the triple, creating way more run up. With the changes you made, there's no reason to have the triple that far to the left, as there's sufficient run up with the 180 turn.

Again, I'm good with whatever, but twisting my words just isn't cool.

It's all good, I'm just sayin'...

To be perfectly honest, we are ALL at fault here. Everyone of us marked where Robert should dump the dirt to make the triple, ALL OF US. We just misjudged how high and far these 8th scales really could fly, so now everyone is overshooting it landing on the flat. And to get the timing down risks casing it, so it's a gamble.

As far as tires go, the Proline Holeshots in M3 compound were fantastic on the 1/10th scale course. Not sure how they would translate in 8th scale, but they might work out pretty good. I think the Calibers will work pretty good. They are on the D8 as we speak, so I'll get a chance to test them out when I get back.



Ken, to be honest, I never ran the DB01 stock, so I'm not sure what shock settings would be a good starting point. A little tip though to save money on the 501x diff halfs...If I recall correctly, the front diff is steel. You can purchase those halfs and use them in the rear. They fit. I also used tungsten carbide diff balls for durability, as the 5700 can wear down the stockers in a hurry if your slipper clutch isn't set right, assuming you have one. And if you are running a 5700, you should definitely invest in a slipper (double slipper is a waste, the single works just fine, it's cheaper, and allows for use of the center one-way if you choose to run one). Without a slipper, the stock drivetrain will only last so long with that 5700, so it may be a good investment to beef up that area of the car first, or else you may run into frustration like Jason did before he beefed his drivetrain up. I'd hate to see ya get frustrated and give up on the car - I think it offers the best blend of performance/durability once you get it dialed. I dunno, maybe I'm just in love with mine.



- Paulie

Last edited by pgeldz; 01-22-2010 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:01 AM   #115
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Oh hey, Igy, speaking about tires - I went to order a set of Holeshots in M3, and it looks like they were replaced with a newer version called the Holeshot 2.0.

I have a set coming so we'll see how they do compared to the originals...



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Old 01-22-2010, 03:05 AM   #116
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Either way the run up was increased as suggested...

Ain't no big deal...and it'll change once we can see it from a driver stand...which is a big deal...

It's good to hash this stuff out, and don't be afraid to bash on me or my mom (she's almost 70 so go for it man!)

I'm a team driver so kiss my A$$.

I might try to get up there Sunday, but it's almost pointless as the stand isn't there...yet.

The EVOV MS is on its way to Australia in the AM and the TA-05-ifsR is availble to a good home for the right price...as well as an extra QC3..

I'm gonna go all off road, and if I can't drive, I'll run the races. Lost the mojo for on road.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:13 AM   #117
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teachers...........gotta love to hate em

Bring the VW out to play on sunday
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:18 AM   #118
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Jon , I have diff fluid in the following:

1k, 3k, 5k,7k,10k,30k, 300k,500k

Let me know what you need if any.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:36 AM   #119
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No drivers' stand yet? Does anyone know when it'll be in place?

Jon, glad to see you found a new home for your on-road gear, but I'll miss you at Yomitan. If you guys all quit on-road, I'll be the lone soldier, and I can only speak so much Japanese mind you

That, and who else will be there to rush me to the hospital in my own car? LOL!



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Old 01-22-2010, 03:38 AM   #120
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Hope you guys have fun for the next three months! Ya'll better get this shit hashed out and have a race schedule set up for when i get back!

Jon, good to see you concentrating on off road...now we just have to get you a nitro!
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