DC Motor Sports Discussion Thread:
#931
Curtis....thanks for all of the rip in 19 turn at the Vegas race. Your motors and batts ran flawlessly all week long.
Dwayne Flodell
Dwayne Flodell
#932
Where is Curtis?
Jeff- Do you know when Curtis is flying home?
Korgae
Jeff- Do you know when Curtis is flying home?
Korgae
#933
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
The Ti3 arms will work fine in the Ti Worlds Edition. I wouldn't recommend it though as the Ti3 arms are standard sized comms. I think you would have some problems with runtime and such. The laydown style has too much RPM's I believe with standard comms.
Jeff
Jeff
-Korey
#935
thanks for the replies... so, what endbells are you using for the Ti3?
#936
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by dmayhew25
Gotta thank Curtis for all the help this past week in Vegas. I had many questions and he answered them all and was a huge help. Had plenty of power with the batts and motors he did for me. Now, just gotta avoid the dots and boards!! Thanks again for the help.
#937
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
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What could cause an armature to loose heaps of power after one run. Even after cutting the comm, running the brushes in, heavier spring tensions etc. It was a Cobalt 7x2, not a DC sorry.
#938
Originally Posted by Korgae
Where is Curtis?
Jeff- Do you know when Curtis is flying home?
Korgae
Jeff- Do you know when Curtis is flying home?
Korgae
Jeff
#939
Originally Posted by highwayman
thanks for the replies... so, what endbells are you using for the Ti3?
Jeff
#940
Something I've found on my Ti3's that I want to pass along. And maybe most ppl already know this, and I'm just lacking. It's important to fully remove the brushes from the hoods when you true the comm. Clean out the inside of the hood and clean off the sides/face of the brushed with a comm stick to remove brush dust and carbon buildup. Seems to be especially true when using XXX brushes. I wasn't doing this, and started having alot of problems with hung brushes. The motor would start out ok, and fail during the run, or a few times, it wouldn't even spin at all, even after 'snapping' the brushes back in against the comm. After that episode, I changed to Quasar brushes and ran fine the rest of the night. Now, maybe XXX brushes are slightly wider/taller, and fit more snugly in the hoods, and therefore are more prone to hanging. Have to break out the calipers and compare.
Also, I seem to have less burning/discoloration of the comm after each run with Quasars and standard purple springs, instead of XXX and extra heavy purple springs that the motor came with.
Also, I seem to have less burning/discoloration of the comm after each run with Quasars and standard purple springs, instead of XXX and extra heavy purple springs that the motor came with.
#941
Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Something I've found on my Ti3's that I want to pass along. And maybe most ppl already know this, and I'm just lacking. It's important to fully remove the brushes from the hoods when you true the comm. Clean out the inside of the hood and clean off the sides/face of the brushed with a comm stick to remove brush dust and carbon buildup. Seems to be especially true when using XXX brushes. I wasn't doing this, and started having alot of problems with hung brushes. The motor would start out ok, and fail during the run, or a few times, it wouldn't even spin at all, even after 'snapping' the brushes back in against the comm. After that episode, I changed to Quasar brushes and ran fine the rest of the night. Now, maybe XXX brushes are slightly wider/taller, and fit more snugly in the hoods, and therefore are more prone to hanging. Have to break out the calipers and compare.
Also, I seem to have less burning/discoloration of the comm after each run with Quasars and standard purple springs, instead of XXX and extra heavy purple springs that the motor came with.
Also, I seem to have less burning/discoloration of the comm after each run with Quasars and standard purple springs, instead of XXX and extra heavy purple springs that the motor came with.
I was going to email Curtis about this thing that I found out to know his opinion about the spring comparison but forgot about it.
Curtis:Hi, any thoughts on the spring tension comparison between the reedy and trinity? I notice that the trinity purple springs on a reedy endbell doesn't push the brush all the way in after 8 to 10 runs, unlike with the reedy style springs. Btw, thanks for helping out my friend, Allan in Vegas. We appreciate it very much.
#942
Fatboy Joe, glad to hear I'm not just simply loosing my mind. Lol. Well, at least not as far as the XXX bruhses are concerned. Everything else, well......
Be interesting to hear what Curtis thinks about this.
Be interesting to hear what Curtis thinks about this.
#943
Well, recently Trinity changed their spring mold/tooling. If you look at an older Trinity Spring you will notice the end is bent into a perfect U shape. Now looking a newer spring you will see the end is flattened out into a lazy V.
So it seem that the most recent batch of springs were not bent properly which makes for a longer spring (inside the hood). What happens is; when the brush and com wear the spring will hit the side of the brush hood (opposite the spring post side), not allowing for pressure to be properly applied to the brush….. A simple squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will make for a quick fix....
Curtis,
So it seem that the most recent batch of springs were not bent properly which makes for a longer spring (inside the hood). What happens is; when the brush and com wear the spring will hit the side of the brush hood (opposite the spring post side), not allowing for pressure to be properly applied to the brush….. A simple squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will make for a quick fix....
Curtis,
#944
Curtis, any plans to go to Cleveland this year?
#945
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by Curtis Schlaht
Well, recently Trinity changed their spring mold/tooling. If you look at an older Trinity Spring you will notice the end is bent into a perfect U shape. Now looking a newer spring you will see the end is flattened out into a lazy V.
So it seem that the most recent batch of springs were not bent properly which makes for a longer spring (inside the hood). What happens is; when the brush and com wear the spring will hit the side of the brush hood (opposite the spring post side), not allowing for pressure to be properly applied to the brush….. A simple squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will make for a quick fix....
Curtis,
So it seem that the most recent batch of springs were not bent properly which makes for a longer spring (inside the hood). What happens is; when the brush and com wear the spring will hit the side of the brush hood (opposite the spring post side), not allowing for pressure to be properly applied to the brush….. A simple squeeze with a pair of needle nose pliers will make for a quick fix....
Curtis,
Curtis I've decided I'll be running some 1/12 mod this winter... I'll talk to you later about that. But what do you think, 8 or 9t Ti3s?