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Old 09-08-2011, 10:46 AM   #121
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What kinda Charger are you using? and what charging methods?

But Def worth spending the extra on good batts and not go with the all of a sudden companys that just got in the batt market and sell them cheap...
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:51 PM   #122
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Having trouble with my RevTech motor. Replaced my Duo 3 with the RevTech and ... nothing .... I have a Tekin RS Pro set to blinky and when I turn it on I get no lights. I tried recalibrating the speedo and after about 10 seconds all I get is a set of 3 lights moving across the speedo one time and then nothing more. Motor has what I consider to be a strong 'cog'.
Anybody having similar problems ?
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:16 PM   #123
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http://www.trinityrc.net

We are offering free shipping in the USA from now till Sept 12th for the grand opening of our new site and web store on any orders 150.00 and up. Use the coupon code 3333.

Thanks
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:26 PM   #124
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Having trouble with my RevTech motor. Replaced my Duo 3 with the RevTech and ... nothing .... I have a Tekin RS Pro set to blinky and when I turn it on I get no lights. I tried recalibrating the speedo and after about 10 seconds all I get is a set of 3 lights moving across the speedo one time and then nothing more. Motor has what I consider to be a strong 'cog'.
Anybody having similar problems ?

Check your soldering and make sure that solder hasn't bridged between any of the 3 poles.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:48 PM   #125
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How do you store your Lipos? Do you store them fully charged for more than 2 days? Storing them at fully charged state for long periods can also "kill" your lipos and the sign is when it starts to bloat.

This happened to one of my SMC lipos when I was just starting out. I forgot to cycle and store a pack at about 70-80% charged (7.6v) and instead left it fully charged. When I used it after about 3 weeks, the case was not flat anymore. I also noticed that continued usage and cycling just further bloated the pack and was no longer able to absorb the spec mah capacity when charging.
I have a pack that is starting to bloat and I could not figure out why, now I know. One of the guys at track told me he stored his packs fully charged with no problems so I started storing them fully charged.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:20 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Having trouble with my RevTech motor. Replaced my Duo 3 with the RevTech and ... nothing .... I have a Tekin RS Pro set to blinky and when I turn it on I get no lights. I tried recalibrating the speedo and after about 10 seconds all I get is a set of 3 lights moving across the speedo one time and then nothing more. Motor has what I consider to be a strong 'cog'.
Anybody having similar problems ?
I would say its possible there is solder across the tabs? This will cause exactly what you described. The other thing is the screws holding the motor together being to tight. I have seen a motor that didnt have enough shims on the endbell end and when you tighten the motor can screws up the rotor hits the sensor board and shorts it out. Make sure this isnt happening as well.

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Old 09-08-2011, 02:47 PM   #127
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I would say its possible there is solder across the tabs? This will cause exactly what you described. The other thing is the screws holding the motor together being to tight. I have seen a motor that didnt have enough shims on the endbell end and when you tighten the motor can screws up the rotor hits the sensor board and shorts it out. Make sure this isnt happening as well.

EA
I thought that maybe there was solder across the tabs too but there isn't and there is about .030 in and .030 out movement of the rotor.
Could the sensor board be bad and could I replace it with a board from one of my Duo motors ?
Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:56 PM   #128
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I doubt the board is bad ... But you can try a duo3 board and it will work.

You can try it.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:01 PM   #129
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I have a pack that is starting to bloat and I could not figure out why, now I know. One of the guys at track told me he stored his packs fully charged with no problems so I started storing them fully charged.
Chances are if you store them fully charged, they will bloat. But there could be some lucky exceptions. I consider SMC as a good brand and yet I fell victim to a bloated lipo because of my own doing. What more if this was done to a cheap and relatively unknown lipo brand. Even if you follow all the do's and dont's for lipo, they will still eventually bloat. But I am surprised at 2 cheap Turnigy Nanotech lipos I bought late last year just for the heck of testing them. I have been charging them at up to 3C (rated at 5C max) and have used them practically every weekend and so far no bloating.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:30 PM   #130
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Eric, longtime no see.This probably does not count these days but I am glad to see the revtech name has come back. Back in the day I ran mod offroad and did ok but hated the lack of control and weakness from the brushed motors we had. I gave up and went back to stock. Later a big race came up and I asked a local about which motor to use. He said "any 17T revtech" I told him they only had one back then, a single wind. So I used the one I had in 2wd buggy and 4wd swapping between heats. Holy crap! Both cars would carry the front wheels down the straight and was smooth as silk through the turns. I ended up winning a ton of races with that motor for a long long time until it would just not run anymore. Now it stays on the shelf here at the pc. If the new motors can match the quality of the old ones I will be a revtech racer again. See me later!
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:42 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
I thought that maybe there was solder across the tabs too but there isn't and there is about .030 in and .030 out movement of the rotor.
Could the sensor board be bad and could I replace it with a board from one of my Duo motors ?
Thanks.
Even if you have rotor end play, loosen all three motor screws and then re-tighten them till they just stop, absolutely no torque to the screws and give it a try.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-09-2011 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:26 PM   #132
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Even if you have rotor end play, loosen all three motor screws and then re-tighten them till they just stop, absolutely no torque to the screws and give it a try.


MAN, you nailed it !!!
I thought I had an $80.00 paper weight.
Any thoughts on why this works ?
Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:45 PM   #133
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MAN, you nailed it !!!
I thought I had an $80.00 paper weight.
Any thoughts on why this works ?
Thanks.
Sorry I don't. Cost me some electronic components before I found this. I just blue lock-tite the screws with the no torque on them, and have about 20+ hours on the motor that way with no issues. I can't figure out where the bind is coming from as I've even inked the rotor to see if there is anything catching anywhere. I thought maybe it was can distortion but nothing is noticeably bent either.

If I ever figure it out I'll post it up, but in the mean time, run it loose and you should be good.
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:26 PM   #134
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Could i use Medium/Purple thread locker instead of Blue? I have blown one of these motors already and don't plan on having my other 2 go the same way. Fastest stock motor i have driven before it blew though
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Old 09-10-2011, 05:58 PM   #135
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Could i use Medium/Purple thread locker instead of Blue? I have blown one of these motors already and don't plan on having my other 2 go the same way. Fastest stock motor i have driven before it blew though
Any kind of thread locker just to keep the screws from turning out. I tried to run without some locktite and 2 of 3 screws backed off too much and caused the endbell to partially rotate and vibrate when being run.
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