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Old 09-06-2011, 04:58 PM   #106
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Default Blinky Mode

I'm going to start racing Blinky Mode, what is the best way to gear my motor? should I start with 0 timing and fine my gearing then advance timing? max timing and fine gearing?

How hot is too hot? I know some motor's are coming off the track above 170*
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:58 PM   #107
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OK, this weekend was NOT good to me. BOTH of my battery packs that I use for 17.5 Blinky in RCGT and Touring Car puffed after the main (but at least they held out that long), and I came in LAST place .

So, I'm confused....which pack would work best in 17.5 blinky touring car, the 28C or the 60C?
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:05 PM   #108
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I'm going to start racing Blinky Mode, what is the best way to gear my motor? should I start with 0 timing and fine my gearing then advance timing? max timing and fine gearing?

How hot is too hot? I know some motor's are coming off the track above 170*
I run full timing in blinky class and find the gear based on track size and temp. Always run a fan in TC. Motors are usually in the 160 range. ReVtechs will be slightly warmer but try not to go above 180. On a good size carpet track try around a 4.1 to start with.

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Old 09-06-2011, 06:13 PM   #109
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OK, this weekend was NOT good to me. BOTH of my battery packs that I use for 17.5 Blinky in RCGT and Touring Car puffed after the main (but at least they held out that long), and I came in LAST place .

So, I'm confused....which pack would work best in 17.5 blinky touring car, the 28C or the 60C?
What kind of packs were they? How old?

I always run the highest C rating available. The IR's are lower and voltage is higher. I have never seen a difference in Temp at the end of a run when comparing 28C to 60C as some say the lower C rating will heat up more during a run. Ive never been able to prove it though.

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Old 09-07-2011, 04:49 AM   #110
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What kind of packs were they? How old?

I always run the highest C rating available. The IR's are lower and voltage is higher. I have never seen a difference in Temp at the end of a run when comparing 28C to 60C as some say the lower C rating will heat up more during a run. Ive never been able to prove it though.

EA
They were ProTek 35C 5000mah, both purchased in January, run about 4 times a week for no more than 8 minutes a run, always balance charged. One might have puffed from some recent rough handling, but the other looks darn near new. Add to the fact that motor temps are normal (low), but the packs sudddenly noticibly droped off performance at about the 4 minute mark (similar to nimh packs getting ready to dump), they got HOT, and the cases puffed up until they cooled. This happened to both this weekend, fine charge/run 1, and got hot and puffed a little for charge cycle 2, and got hotter and puffed more and more with cycle 3, and 4 stayed puffed almost to splitting the cases after the run in the main!

Very frustrating, since the Venom packs that I also bought about the same time had previously both rolled over and died from a bad cell each within several months of purchase, and taking care of that was such a nightmare that I swore off of Venom for life.

I'm in the market for a high end batteries, but with 4 of 5 that I purchased this year treated well, and always balance charged, I'm at a loss as to what to think. Did I do something wrong with them? Always balance charged, always stored indoors at room temp.

Anyway, I've read some good things here and elsewhere about the revtech batteries, but the various online retailers seem to have mixed info on their pages between the 28C and 60C packs and their suitability for "Stock/Spec". Couple that with some incomplete field testing reports, and you can understand the confusion.
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:17 AM   #111
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I cannot fault the new 28c 6000 pack ive just bought for 17.5 boosted tc. For the price they are unbelievable. One problem is its a little to easy to go overboard with the boost and turbo settings on my HW and cook motors
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:39 AM   #112
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They were ProTek 35C 5000mah, both purchased in January, run about 4 times a week for no more than 8 minutes a run, always balance charged. One might have puffed from some recent rough handling, but the other looks darn near new. Add to the fact that motor temps are normal (low), but the packs sudddenly noticibly droped off performance at about the 4 minute mark (similar to nimh packs getting ready to dump), they got HOT, and the cases puffed up until they cooled. This happened to both this weekend, fine charge/run 1, and got hot and puffed a little for charge cycle 2, and got hotter and puffed more and more with cycle 3, and 4 stayed puffed almost to splitting the cases after the run in the main!

Very frustrating, since the Venom packs that I also bought about the same time had previously both rolled over and died from a bad cell each within several months of purchase, and taking care of that was such a nightmare that I swore off of Venom for life.

I'm in the market for a high end batteries, but with 4 of 5 that I purchased this year treated well, and always balance charged, I'm at a loss as to what to think. Did I do something wrong with them? Always balance charged, always stored indoors at room temp.

Anyway, I've read some good things here and elsewhere about the revtech batteries, but the various online retailers seem to have mixed info on their pages between the 28C and 60C packs and their suitability for "Stock/Spec". Couple that with some incomplete field testing reports, and you can understand the confusion.
Some lipo's C rating are severely over rated so you have to watch out for those sometimes. As far as cells going dead I have seen a couple (2) of ReVtech packs new from the factory this but never seen one go dead if its good out of the package. I still have mine from March from the original batch and it is slightly puffed in the very center (mainly from over charging and heating at our club track that doesnt care) but its minimal at best. It still runs awesome!

I dont think its anything you did though. As long as your charger is charging to 8.40 and not over charging and your not getting them hot then they shouldnt have died that soon.

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Old 09-07-2011, 06:40 AM   #113
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Default Lipo Sack

Would anyone buy this lipo bag at 30.00 retail? It will hold at least 2 2S packs safely.

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Old 09-07-2011, 08:22 AM   #114
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Would anyone buy this lipo bag at 30.00 retail? It will hold at least 2 2S packs safely.

EA
I like it, but I think $30 is a bit steep for a lipo bag. $20 or less would make me far more inclined to buy one.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:28 AM   #115
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I like it, but I think $30 is a bit steep for a lipo bag. $20 or less would make me far more inclined to buy one.
If done they would retail for 30.00 and sell for around 25.00 maybe. They sale for close to that in Japan. An ugly losi lipo sack that holds one (safely) is 17.95.

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Old 09-07-2011, 09:04 AM   #116
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Get the 6000 60C packs. 'Nuff said. They are beastly in 17.5 and mod. Ironically both cars (TC3, TC6) balance nearly perfect with the 6000 (within 5-10 grams side to side).
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:29 AM   #117
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I paid about $15 for a generic one that holds 2 easily, that's why I figured maybe $5 more for a brand label. Just seems a bit high for what they are. I have a single battery Trinity lipo bag that I won as a door prize earlier this year. From looking at it I wouldn't expect that it cost more than a few dollars to make. Probably retails for $15-$20 though.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised. There are quite a few things in this hobby that cost more than they probably should.

Looks good anyway, EA.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:02 AM   #118
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I paid about $15 for a generic one that holds 2 easily, that's why I figured maybe $5 more for a brand label. Just seems a bit high for what they are. I have a single battery Trinity lipo bag that I won as a door prize earlier this year. From looking at it I wouldn't expect that it cost more than a few dollars to make. Probably retails for $15-$20 though.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised. There are quite a few things in this hobby that cost more than they probably should.

Looks good anyway, EA.
Pretty much every lipo bag out is only capable of holding one pack. you go to a ROAR race and you'll need two bags if charging two packs. This one is rated for 2 packs I am being told. So if that is true this one would be cheaper. LOL

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Old 09-07-2011, 09:09 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
They were ProTek 35C 5000mah, both purchased in January, run about 4 times a week for no more than 8 minutes a run, always balance charged. One might have puffed from some recent rough handling, but the other looks darn near new. Add to the fact that motor temps are normal (low), but the packs sudddenly noticibly droped off performance at about the 4 minute mark (similar to nimh packs getting ready to dump), they got HOT, and the cases puffed up until they cooled. This happened to both this weekend, fine charge/run 1, and got hot and puffed a little for charge cycle 2, and got hotter and puffed more and more with cycle 3, and 4 stayed puffed almost to splitting the cases after the run in the main!

Very frustrating, since the Venom packs that I also bought about the same time had previously both rolled over and died from a bad cell each within several months of purchase, and taking care of that was such a nightmare that I swore off of Venom for life.

I'm in the market for a high end batteries, but with 4 of 5 that I purchased this year treated well, and always balance charged, I'm at a loss as to what to think. Did I do something wrong with them? Always balance charged, always stored indoors at room temp.

Anyway, I've read some good things here and elsewhere about the revtech batteries, but the various online retailers seem to have mixed info on their pages between the 28C and 60C packs and their suitability for "Stock/Spec". Couple that with some incomplete field testing reports, and you can understand the confusion.
How do you store your Lipos? Do you store them fully charged for more than 2 days? Storing them at fully charged state for long periods can also "kill" your lipos and the sign is when it starts to bloat.

This happened to one of my SMC lipos when I was just starting out. I forgot to cycle and store a pack at about 70-80% charged (7.6v) and instead left it fully charged. When I used it after about 3 weeks, the case was not flat anymore. I also noticed that continued usage and cycling just further bloated the pack and was no longer able to absorb the spec mah capacity when charging.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:44 AM   #120
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How do you store your Lipos? Do you store them fully charged for more than 2 days? Storing them at fully charged state for long periods can also "kill" your lipos and the sign is when it starts to bloat.

This happened to one of my SMC lipos when I was just starting out. I forgot to cycle and store a pack at about 70-80% charged (7.6v) and instead left it fully charged. When I used it after about 3 weeks, the case was not flat anymore. I also noticed that continued usage and cycling just further bloated the pack and was no longer able to absorb the spec mah capacity when charging.
Nope, stored inside, in a lipo sack, about 75% charged and peaked just before the first run every use. Sucks.

I ordered one of the 60C packs to give it a run!
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