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Old 06-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #421
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I've had very good luck buying rotors and stators from Fantom. Also, EA ( Eric Anderson ) is very reputable but I am no longer sure if he still distributes trinity / Epic / Revtec products.
He does distribute still.

Don't get me wrong hes not warranty but he will sell you a good product/replacement.

See EAMotorsports or shoot him an email @ [email protected]

I know he is getting shipments of the D3.5 too.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:17 PM   #422
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I'm just looking for advice/assistance on reshimming a rotor in my revtech 17.5. I'm putting in a 12.5 HT rotor, and I just want to make sure I have it shimmed right. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:35 AM   #423
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I'm just looking for advice/assistance on reshimming a rotor in my revtech 17.5. I'm putting in a 12.5 HT rotor, and I just want to make sure I have it shimmed right. Thanks in advance.
Usually 1 or 2 shims
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Old 07-20-2012, 01:41 AM   #424
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Just looking for a little advice, can anyone recommend a starting final drive ratio for the Revtech 21.5 in blinky mode, running in an Xray T2? Thanks.
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:15 AM   #425
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Just looking for a little advice, can anyone recommend a starting final drive ratio for the Revtech 21.5 in blinky mode, running in an Xray T2? Thanks.
Depends on the track size. For a small tight track you might find around 4.0 to be good, but for a larger, more flowing track you might want to go down to the low 3s.

Basically the same as 17.5 blinky. Maybe a tooth or 2 difference.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:03 AM   #426
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Thanks, been running a Tekin Redline at around 3.4, just wasn't sure where to start with this motor.
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:59 PM   #427
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I may be giving old info, but none the less. I had been running a Reedy Sonic in my SC10 for the last few months and got tired of chasing for more top end without sacrificing low end. So I got a 13.5 RevTech and 12.5 high torque rotor. I'm running a MMP, Spektrum S6040, Futaba 4pl r603gf, and 65c TP 2s. Well I had 1.33 beta firmware already installed. Hooked up the Revtech and it was giving me symptoms like a bad board or sensor wire. Changed wire and nothing helped. Put the stock rotor in, no help. Checked, checked, and triple checked esc on the computer. Re-binded the radio, nothing. It was taking off like I had a ton of punch control in the esc. I would go WOT from a stop and it would take off slow for a few feet, then take off hauling ass. I read about firmware issues with a few different motor/esc combo's. So I loaded 1.32 and now its perfect and very fast. I love it! Stupid beta firmware almost made me crazy today!
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:06 AM   #428
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I have a question and I'm hoping you guys can help. I normally run a 3.8 FDR and full timing in my car and the motor comes off at 150 on the end bell and 135-140 on the can. I wanted to experiment with timing and gearing tonight so I set the timing at one notch above 0 or neutral and tried the 3.8 FDR. Motor came off at 120 on the end bell and 110 on the can. Then I changed to a 3.65 FDR and gave it a run. Same timing. End bell was 200 and the can was 140. Dropped to a 4.0, same timing but now the end bell is 180 and the can is 140. Is this an indicator that I may have damaged the sensor board? How about the rotor? I have heard weak or damaged rotors can heat up even on low timing and high FDR.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:11 PM   #429
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Update

dropped the FDR to 4.1 tonight and gave it a run. Motor got to 175. I tore the motor down and couldn't see any obvious issues. Motor is clean, timing board looks ok. No damage. Bearings are in great shape...like new. I did notice the rotor was out of balance. Tried another stock rotor and the temps still got to 175. Put in a Novak ss and temps dropped all the way to 105. I'm really leaning towards timing board but I was hoping to get more opinions here. The motor is still very strong and is giving me some great lap times. It does go flat around 160 though but I expect that.

Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:29 PM   #430
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Never could find the correct answer for this question so finally figured it out myself. It appears the stock screws are made of leftover crayons or very spoiled cheese.

Whats the full size of the timing plate screws?

Answer - 2.5x6mm
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:13 PM   #431
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Update

dropped the FDR to 4.1 tonight and gave it a run. Motor got to 175. I tore the motor down and couldn't see any obvious issues. Motor is clean, timing board looks ok. No damage. Bearings are in great shape...like new. I did notice the rotor was out of balance. Tried another stock rotor and the temps still got to 175. Put in a Novak ss and temps dropped all the way to 105. I'm really leaning towards timing board but I was hoping to get more opinions here. The motor is still very strong and is giving me some great lap times. It does go flat around 160 though but I expect that.

Thanks.
Try tapping the bottom part of the motor the pinion side on a table to set the bearing back into place. But also your speedo change is interesting. You dropping 70 degrees switching speedo's?
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:22 PM   #432
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Try tapping the bottom part of the motor the pinion side on a table to set the bearing back into place. But also your speedo change is interesting. You dropping 70 degrees switching speedo's?
The Novak SS is a motor , not an ESC ( "speedo" )
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:47 PM   #433
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The Novak SS is a motor , not an ESC ( "speedo" )
Gotcha sorry not familiar with the Novak line at all. Well just make sure the bearings are straight by tapping the pinion side of the rotor against a table it should align the bearings if they are out of place. Typically though its a sign that a bearing is not spinning properly. Meaning that something is not aligned properly.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:24 AM   #434
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short question, is the 17.5 revtech only for blinky or does it work in boosted too?
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:09 AM   #435
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short question, is the 17.5 revtech only for blinky or does it work in boosted too?
I have not personally run it boosted. But all motors will work in boosted. When you run boosted just gear accordingly and make sure the temps don't get to hot. Less than 160 degrees on that motor.
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