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Old 04-02-2012, 06:44 PM   #391
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What's the difference between the black rotor and the silver. All of mine come with silver, but i have bought some tuning rotors and they are black. Is it to signify that they are not spec rotors?
I have 3 black rotors which are 12.3, and I have 2 silvers (one purple, one teal) that are 12.5...... so as far as I know, the silvers are the bigger sized.
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:07 PM   #392
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Default d8 1/8th motor

Have a mbx5t and was thinking about an brushless conversion. I seen the 1/8th scale D8 motors on trinitys website and was wondering if anyone on here has tryed them. And what kv would work best with a truggy on 4s. Thanks.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:46 AM   #393
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So I accidentally used a motor mount screw that was about 1.5mm too long for my Revtech 17.5. I could see through the holes in the can that the screw had indented a "ring" going around that end of the motor, so I gently bent the "ring" back into place so it was no longer indented, and used a shorter motor mount screw.

I apologize for my unfamiliarity with the terminology for parts within brushless motors, but based on my vague description, is there a chance I have actually damaged my motor, or should it still be ok? It still runs, I am just worried it will be slower now. Any input is much appreciated, thanks!
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:14 AM   #394
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So I accidentally used a motor mount screw that was about 1.5mm too long for my Revtech 17.5. I could see through the holes in the can that the screw had indented a "ring" going around that end of the motor, so I gently bent the "ring" back into place so it was no longer indented, and used a shorter motor mount screw.

I apologize for my unfamiliarity with the terminology for parts within brushless motors, but based on my vague description, is there a chance I have actually damaged my motor, or should it still be ok? It still runs, I am just worried it will be slower now. Any input is much appreciated, thanks!
If the screw just "nudged" the silver ring, it should work fine. I've done that a couple of times. That ring is electrical connection; unless you physically broke it in 2 or you can see damage just under the ring, it should run fine. I would only worry if it starts running 25-40* hotter than usual, or something extreme like that.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:34 AM   #395
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hi guy's
quick question if i was to re shim the rotor should i get it as close to the sensor as i can with out it touching and adjust the other side so there is a small amount of play???
cheers
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:41 AM   #396
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hi guy's
quick question if i was to re shim the rotor should i get it as close to the sensor as i can with out it touching and adjust the other side so there is a small amount of play???
cheers
Yes. You want it as close as possible but not touching any of the three sensors. When it's all put back together you want just a tad bit of play. Maybe 1mm or so.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:54 AM   #397
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Hello, here are a boy how make a conversion kit for 1/10 nitro gas car, for now to Xray NT1 and Kyosho RRR, from nitro to electric, with very good performance, the kit is not very expensive and easy to mount or dismount to revert ...
Well, but is not the question, the dificult task is the motor, need a similar to 540 for space and weight, i think in Tekin Pro4 and Trinity Revtech motors, but i think the more suitable are a SC motors how Revtech 4XS, i plan to use with 2S Lipo battery but i think to test with 3S, too.
The tipical weight for this cars are 1.700-1.800g, with foam tyres, but i donīt know is this motors work well in this type of cars, with this weight, i see in videos, a SC cars to 3.000+ g, and go very well.

Any help is appreciate, best KV motor, model,... thanks in advance an sorry for my english.

This is my friend website, how make a conversion kit:http://nuke.turboracingrc.es/

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:35 PM   #398
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Default Help ! with rev tech pack

So i went and spent a good piece of change on a new Revtech pack. It is the 65x65. After charging normally i notice the female barrel connectors inside the pack were coming out of the pack and when you try to push them back in you can hear them arcing back and forth. I am afraid to run this 120.00 pack. yet my lhs cant get a response back from trinity .
What to do ?
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:48 PM   #399
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So i went and spent a good piece of change on a new revtech pack. Itis the 65x65. After charging normally i notice the female barrel connectors inside the pack were coming out of the packand when you try to push them back in you can hear them arcing back and forth. I am afraid to run this 120.00 pack. yet my lhs cant get a response back from trinity .
what to do ?
bbruce@teamtrinity.com, tonyp@teamtrinity.com, eprovetti@teamtrinity.com

Those are all the contacts at Trinity.

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Old 04-26-2012, 06:53 PM   #400
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bbruce@teamtrinity.com, tonyp@teamtrinity.com, eprovetti@teamtrinity.com

Those are all the contacts at Trinity.

EA
ty
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:22 PM   #401
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Just picked up a 10.5 ReVtech R motor on the forum and was wondering what people are running for gearing on an sc10. THanks
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:44 PM   #402
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I just picked up a revtech 21.5 and so far it isn't living up to what I expected so I was hoping to get some tips. First I think I read that this motor needs to be reshimmed so ththe rotor is as close as it can be to the sensor board without touching and the rotor play should be 0.5 mm. is this correct? Also do the bearings need to be flushed and oiled even though the motor is new?

Right now the motor is in a 4wd tc chassis set up for usgt. The motor is set at zero timing with a 3.84 FDR and it comes off at 145 degrees after 6 minutes in about 80 degree air. Right now it seems to be doing ok but there is a lrp at our track that is about to eat my butt as soon as he finds rear end traction. I don't want to let that happen. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful.

thanks.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:02 PM   #403
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
I just picked up a revtech 21.5 and so far it isn't living up to what I expected so I was hoping to get some tips. First I think I read that this motor needs to be reshimmed so ththe rotor is as close as it can be to the sensor board without touching and the rotor play should be 0.5 mm. is this correct? Also do the bearings need to be flushed and oiled even though the motor is new?

Right now the motor is in a 4wd tc chassis set up for usgt. The motor is set at zero timing with a 3.84 FDR and it comes off at 145 degrees after 6 minutes in about 80 degree air. Right now it seems to be doing ok but there is a lrp at our track that is about to eat my butt as soon as he finds rear end traction. I don't want to let that happen. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful.

thanks.
The hot USGT setup at our track seems to be max timing, start around 4.0 FDR, and with a fan start adding gearing for temps of 160. Shimming the rotor does help.... close to the sensor board, and just enough play to "feel" with your hands.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:07 PM   #404
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The hot USGT setup at our track seems to be max timing, start around 4.0 FDR, and with a fan start adding gearing for temps of 160. Shimming the rotor does help.... close to the sensor board, and just enough play to "feel" with your hands.
Sounds good. thanks. I will reshim the motor and blast and oil the bearings tomorrow. I will also regear for the 4.0 FDR. I have a dual cooling fan on the motor so I should be good there. So 160 is the target for these motors? I usually run my reedy around 150 in the f1.

Should the fan be mounted more toward the sensor board end, in the middle, or to the pinion side? Or does it even matter any?

I just did a rear down of the chassis and reoiled all of the bearings so the car is nice and free. I will be at the track early Saturday so I will start at 0 timing on the 4.0 and advance from there to 160 degrees.

Do ceramic bearings make a big difference in these motors?

Thanks
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:03 AM   #405
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I've been running my Touring Car on a 4.0 FDR on my Revtech 17.5 with a 12.5mm HT rotor. Timing is 3 notches to the right from center. Question is, when you guys temp the motor after a run, do you temp the motor can / end bell itself or internally through the cooling vents?

Reason being that I never bothered doing that until today, when after 6 mins the can temp was 155F but the temp inside (through vent holes) was 170F. Is this reason to worry or should I aim for an "internal" temp of 160F?
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