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Old 12-17-2011, 06:51 PM   #226
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Chances are the high torque rotor could be slightly longer, ie more magnet, which would give it the higher torque, so if its longer you would need a shorter spacer to set the proper end play. A high rpm rotor will be a little shorter so the opposite is true, that you would need a longer spacer for proper end play. In general rotors that are rated as rpm and torque can vary in many different ways, either by length of rotor magnet material, or the actual shaft inside the rotor magnet can be a bigger or smaller diameter, its all in how they vary the magnet strength. Of course in a spec motor there are measurements that the rotor has to follow in order to be legal as well.

Again, I cant overstate the importance of making sure the back end of the rotor does not touch the sensors. That is really the most important thing on setting the motor up. This can become a big problem if they touch.
I'm learning more and more and thank you for that... So basically set the rotor into the the sensor board and use as many shims as needed so the rotor doesn't hit the tabs on the board? Would coming with 4 shims mean you might have to use all 4? There are 3 normal size ones then 1 very thin one... Just trying to learn more and more... Thanks again! So also use the shorter of the larger shims on the pinion side of the rotor due to your explanation aye?
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:01 PM   #227
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I'm learning more and more and thank you for that... So basically set the rotor into the the sensor board and use as many shims as needed so the rotor doesn't hit the tabs on the board? Would coming with 4 shims mean you might have to use all 4? There are 3 normal size ones then 1 very thin one... Just trying to learn more and more... Thanks again! So also use the shorter of the larger shims on the pinion side of the rotor due to your explanation aye?

Yes that's correct, it might take all 4 or it may take 2 you have to set the gap, but as close as possible without touching is ideal. Then on the other side put one of those long shims on and put the backing plate on, like it's fully assembled, then pull on the shaft and see if you have any side play, you want just a very small amount but not tight. That end could use one of the long spacers and a combination of some of the thin ones as well, this is how you set you're end play. Just don't make it so there isn't any or the motor will be too tight and probably run badly and have a lot of heat issues.
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:00 PM   #228
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Yes that's correct, it might take all 4 or it may take 2 you have to set the gap, but as close as possible without touching is ideal. Then on the other side put one of those long shims on and put the backing plate on, like it's fully assembled, then pull on the shaft and see if you have any side play, you want just a very small amount but not tight. That end could use one of the long spacers and a combination of some of the thin ones as well, this is how you set you're end play. Just don't make it so there isn't any or the motor will be too tight and probably run badly and have a lot of heat issues.
Thanks for the info! I will set it so there is just a little bit of play in the rotor!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:02 PM   #229
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Thanks for the info! I will set it so there is just a little bit of play in the rotor!
I played around with shimming on a D2 I have. I got it just a hair off the sensors, then took all but maybe .75mm of play out of it on the other end. With the same gearing and timing as prior, it literally made enough difference that I noticed it on the bottom end..... the motor FELT much better, and it took about 5-10*F off.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:42 PM   #230
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I played around with shimming on a D2 I have. I got it just a hair off the sensors, then took all but maybe .75mm of play out of it on the other end. With the same gearing and timing as prior, it literally made enough difference that I noticed it on the bottom end..... the motor FELT much better, and it took about 5-10*F off.
yes that is definetly true we used to build brushed motors that way and the closest you can get the rotor to the sensor board without touching it makes a huge difference on the track and the dyno
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:18 AM   #231
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Hey I was given a 13.5T to run in my B4.1. What kind of FDR / gear ratio do I wanna be at. I was told it's a Trinity Duo, the original one.

I can calculate it out if you can give me what the final should be.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:48 AM   #232
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I heard thru the grapevine that some Revtech drivers are using the 12.5mm High Torque rotors for 17.5 1/12th scale, with pretty huge rollouts(ie: 105+ mm).

Any truth to this? I was under the impression that most were using the lower magnet strength 12.3mm rotors for blinky 1/12th.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:44 AM   #233
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I heard thru the grapevine that some Revtech drivers are using the 12.5mm High Torque rotors for 17.5 1/12th scale, with pretty huge rollouts(ie: 105+ mm).

Any truth to this? I was under the impression that most were using the lower magnet strength 12.3mm rotors for blinky 1/12th.
That's how I have mine setup, the roll out is not crazy high, at the last event I ran (Timezone GP) I was rolled out around 100-105mm ... It was fast, enough so people were whining that I must be running boost. It did not have more top end than anyone but would rip mid corner.

It was difficult finding a timing it liked however and not have massive fade.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:50 AM   #234
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That's how I have mine setup, the roll out is not crazy high, at the last event I ran (Timezone GP) I was rolled out around 100-105mm ... It was fast, enough so people were whining that I must be running boost. It did not have more top end than anyone but would rip mid corner.

It was difficult finding a timing it liked however and not have massive fade.
Thanks for the info Wes.

Any suggestions on starting points for timing? Maybe 2 hash marks positive?
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:45 AM   #235
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Thanks for the info Wes.

Any suggestions on starting points for timing? Maybe 2 hash marks positive?
That would be a fine starting point.

I always start with the timing cranked, and back it off a mark at a time and compare lap times over 5 minutes. Whichever timing mark yields the fastest average is where it stays.

But you could do it the other way, start at 0 and work your way up. Either way you get fast eventually, as long as you are in the neighborhood of where you should be rolled out at.
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Old 12-24-2011, 08:04 AM   #236
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ok so i picked up a few of the revtech 17.5 motors.. i have been running the old red can trinity 17.5 ( duo 2 ).. what will the main differences be? also if i am at a 4.2 fdr ( no boost ) will the gearing be the same or will i need to make a slight change? on the red can i have +15* or third make for timing.. what will the revtech be? same or different? i also heard to shim the rotor as close to the sensors as possible without hitting them.. is this a performance again or does nothing at all? here is a quick video of my home track. yes i am the lead car..

Onroad carpet racing at MARCCA

thanks in advance.. jeremy
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Old 12-24-2011, 06:00 PM   #237
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ok so i picked up a few of the revtech 17.5 motors.. i have been running the old red can trinity 17.5 ( duo 2 ).. what will the main differences be? also if i am at a 4.2 fdr ( no boost ) will the gearing be the same or will i need to make a slight change? on the red can i have +15* or third make for timing.. what will the revtech be? same or different? i also heard to shim the rotor as close to the sensors as possible without hitting them.. is this a performance again or does nothing at all? here is a quick video of my home track. yes i am the lead car..

Onroad carpet racing at MARCCA

thanks in advance.. jeremy
Generally you will run a higher gear ratio. At our track which is large, guys run 3.9 versus 3.6-.9 with the D3. Timing and gearing vary from motor to motor, even motors of the same type you may need to change your gearing timing around to suit your needs. I would try 1-2 timing marks before maximum and go from there with 2S. It will get you in a general ball park.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:38 AM   #238
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I want to let all of the Trinity fans and drivers out there know about the debut Industry Series release from P1 Brand. The "Jim Dieter Signature" tee is limited edition, screenprinted shirt that is a unique homage to the legendary motorman. Packaged inside of a paint can with a custom label wrap, these tees are available directly from the P1Brand.com online shop, and there are only a few remaining.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:17 PM   #239
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I want to let all of the Trinity fans and drivers out there know about the debut Industry Series release from P1 Brand. The "Jim Dieter Signature" tee is limited edition, screenprinted shirt that is a unique homage to the legendary motorman. Packaged inside of a paint can with a custom label wrap, these tees are available directly from the P1Brand.com online shop, and there are only a few remaining.
I got mine

It's a kick ass shirt, really excellent quality. I have been impressed with how well it's held up in the wash too, I usually always "size up" and let the shirt shrink down, these haven't shrank and the printing is still dialed.

So far the best RC quality RC shirts I've ever owned.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:02 AM   #240
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confused about rotors. Whats the difference for 12.3 high torque and 12.5 high torque for a duo 3 13.5. This is for short course application
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