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Old 12-02-2011, 10:20 AM   #211
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i have geared higher with no gain the d3 i ran at the nats with a 3.28 fdr motors were hot 220 but they held up all weekend with no issues
yes the apex is based on the revtech
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:20 AM   #212
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Anyone know the wattage rating and efficiency of the revtech 13.5?
No one knows the wattage and/or efficiency of these mtoors? We just buy them?
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:59 AM   #213
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No one knows the wattage and/or efficiency of these mtoors? We just buy them?
http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....product_id=134

rated at 4000kv
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:00 AM   #214
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No one knows the wattage and/or efficiency of these mtoors? We just buy them?
There are to many variables to determine wattage and or eff. Voltage, class used in, type of vehicle, type of battery, etc, etc. These numbers are basically useless for anything as the ones that do display these numbers never reveal how they achieved these numbers. So you really dont know if one brand was tested the same as another to really compare in the first place.

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Old 12-05-2011, 08:01 AM   #215
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All spec ReVtech motors in stock today! Also new batch of single cells just showed up too!

Free shipping the month of December too. Look for the code on the website.

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Old 12-05-2011, 09:22 AM   #216
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Fully aware of the KV, thanks. I have a 13.5 revtech here, on my desk. There is no reason they can't supply a watts rating. Come on. Some, even MANY would say it's a better gauge of power than turns, or KV, since as EA points out, those numbers are subject to manufacturer "interpretation" as well. Ah well. I guess buy a fantom with a dyno sheet if I'm that worried about it next time. Just would be nice to know is all.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:42 AM   #217
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Fully aware of the KV, thanks. I have a 13.5 revtech here, on my desk. There is no reason they can't supply a watts rating. Come on. Some, even MANY would say it's a better gauge of power than turns, or KV, since as EA points out, those numbers are subject to manufacturer "interpretation" as well. Ah well. I guess buy a fantom with a dyno sheet if I'm that worried about it next time. Just would be nice to know is all.
If you email me I can shoot you a pic of some dyno sheets off the turbo dyno. I dyno and fully check out all the motors I sell here. And you are correct that wattage is a better gauge than KV ratings.

EAnderson76@me.com

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Old 12-05-2011, 11:35 AM   #218
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If you email me I can shoot you a pic of some dyno sheets off the turbo dyno. I dyno and fully check out all the motors I sell here. And you are correct that wattage is a better gauge than KV ratings.

EAnderson76@me.com

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Did not know that. In fact, before I purchased I hunted for your website and came up empty handed. Under construction or something? Happy to email, thanks for the replies!
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:38 AM   #219
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Did not know that. In fact, before I purchased I hunted for your website and came up empty handed. Under construction or something? Happy to email, thanks for the replies!
The site got hacked a while back and I never had it rebuilt. Just to much trouble and money for as much as I used it really. Just go off word of mouth more or less now.

Thanks and just drop me an email and I'll be glad to help you out.

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Old 12-05-2011, 02:47 PM   #220
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The ReVtech motors and batteries worked very well this weekend. Great performance from both products. The batteries seem to get stronger thru each charge.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:21 PM   #221
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Default Revtech motors & batties

Hey Guys

I'm one of ur team drivers in California. I been running stock buggy, truck, and also mod buggy, truck, 4 wheel. Using the Revtech 17.5 with the timing turn up on the motor make really great power. For mod, using 8.5 and 7.5. Great power also. I just started to run the Revtech batties in the XX4. What a difference in the punch. Had the IP packs before. Anyways, just want to says thumbs up on the product!
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:04 PM   #222
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So I recently bought a 13.5 revtech motor to run in blinky mode and I was very happy with it's performance. I did some research and discovered the 12.5mm high torque replacement rotor so I went ahead and bought it. Here is my question: I took the old rotor out and notice only two shims on the rotor end that goes into the bearing on the sensor board side of the motor. The new high torque rotor comes with 4 shims and what seems to be a different length shim for the other end of the rotor... So after searching all over I finally am posting here to figure out what shims I need to use. I got the two large shims mixed up, (not sure now which one came with the high torque rotor), and am wondering if anyone has experience with swapping the rotors? Why wouldn't it be a direct swamp and not need a different length/larger shim? Thanks for any help given.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:28 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by BrutalBotek View Post
So I recently bought a 13.5 revtech motor to run in blinky mode and I was very happy with it's performance. I did some research and discovered the 12.5mm high torque replacement rotor so I went ahead and bought it. Here is my question: I took the old rotor out and notice only two shims on the rotor end that goes into the bearing on the sensor board side of the motor. The new high torque rotor comes with 4 shims and what seems to be a different length shim for the other end of the rotor... So after searching all over I finally am posting here to figure out what shims I need to use. I got the two large shims mixed up, (not sure now which one came with the high torque rotor), and am wondering if anyone has experience with swapping the rotors? Why wouldn't it be a direct swamp and not need a different length/larger shim? Thanks for any help given.
I can't say why it wouldn't be a direct replacement, but I can tell you that even 2 rotors of the exact same specs still could require different spacing. That said, you will have to trial fit the rotor to the sensor board, using just enough spacers so that the back edge of your rotor does not hit the sensors on the sensor board. You ideally want the spacing to be as close as possible but not touching anywhere. Once you have that end set you can assemble the back half of the motor and put the spacers on the end that the pinion goes on till you have about 0.05mm of play. this should be enough so you have no bind issues. The big thing, again, is make sure that the rotor DOES NOT touch the sensors on the sensor board.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:35 PM   #224
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I can't say why it wouldn't be a direct replacement, but I can tell you that even 2 rotors of the exact same specs still could require different spacing. That said, you will have to trial fit the rotor to the sensor board, using just enough spacers so that the back edge of your rotor does not hit the sensors on the sensor board. You ideally want the spacing to be as close as possible but not touching anywhere. Once you have that end set you can assemble the back half of the motor and put the spacers on the end that the pinion goes on till you have about 0.05mm of play. this should be enough so you have no bind issues. The big thing, again, is make sure that the rotor DOES NOT touch the sensors on the sensor board.
Thanks for this info... Why would there be different length large shims that come stock versus the high torque rotor, the one that goes on the pinion side of the rotor? The stock one seemed longer while the high torque one seemed shorter. Also, I have the sensor board in the motor plate and it doesn't seem like the shims do a huge difference? It goes motor plate, then metal horseshoe thing, then the sensor board holds that in... Just used to tekin motors and not having to account for different shims/etc... Thanks again for the info!
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:45 PM   #225
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Thanks for this info... Why would there be different length large shims that come stock versus the high torque rotor, the one that goes on the pinion side of the rotor? The stock one seemed longer while the high torque one seemed shorter. Also, I have the sensor board in the motor plate and it doesn't seem like the shims do a huge difference? It goes motor plate, then metal horseshoe thing, then the sensor board holds that in... Just used to tekin motors and not having to account for different shims/etc... Thanks again for the info!
Chances are the high torque rotor could be slightly longer, ie more magnet, which would give it the higher torque, so if its longer you would need a shorter spacer to set the proper end play. A high rpm rotor will be a little shorter so the opposite is true, that you would need a longer spacer for proper end play. In general rotors that are rated as rpm and torque can vary in many different ways, either by length of rotor magnet material, or the actual shaft inside the rotor magnet can be a bigger or smaller diameter, its all in how they vary the magnet strength. Of course in a spec motor there are measurements that the rotor has to follow in order to be legal as well.

Again, I cant overstate the importance of making sure the back end of the rotor does not touch the sensors. That is really the most important thing on setting the motor up. This can become a big problem if they touch.
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