seaball

iTrader: (9)

yeah, it's a good starting point. might be a few teeth up (pinion) from that as you temp. also have had a few tell me that the motor runs a tic cooler w/o laying down, if you scale back from full timing. that could tolerate a few teeth as well.

i've run it more, and i like the powerband of this motor for tc. it's rolls off the corners, but still pulls enough to be fast. wheras gearing up a torque based motor tends to 'kick' off the corner ...

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

4.29 seems a tad high for 17.5 non-ramping... Was this a particularly small track(I know you said 90x40, but Im having trouble visualizing it)? Any thoughts on how it would have performed going to a lower FD? How about the motor temps?

Im at 3.92 right now and am just starting to find the sweet spot of the motor. Our track certainly isn't large by any stretch either.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

seems like some guys are gearing up a few teeth from the 4.3 i ran. like i said, it's just a safe start. for some reason, my 4.3 pulls everyone in the last bit of the straight, and comes off at 160* with a solid fan on the chassis, mounted ~ 10mm beind the motor. that scenario strikes me as appropriate, but perhaps i need to push the envelope ..

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

From my testing I have to disagree with you Chris....my best working FDR is 4.29....lol, and I get the same results big pull towards the end of the straight and 160* for temp as well on the fan. The only thing I found was if the the motor was at 130* at the 4 minute mark the motor ran fine for the 6 minutes with out any thermal fade or performance drop off.

Did anyone at the Gate race run the modified end bell that Josh makes, and if so any info on it.

EA will any of the opened endbells be available at the IIC?

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

At this point its not looking like there will be much of anything at the IIC for sale. Its been tough to get stuff lately and our orders have been delayed for whatever reason. Not looking like anything is coming in before IIC.

EA

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Anyone looking for 17.5 ReVtech motors in Vegas come find me Monday night. I will have some along with some ReVtech batteries out of the latest batch on Tuesday.

Thanks
EA

seaball

iTrader: (9)

you're sending us mixed signals, here.

(good luck out there, son. you know what to do... )

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Thats what happens when I cant get straight answers. Prepare everyone for the worst and come through in the end to be the hero! LOL

Thanks...Looking forward to blowing out some more!

EA

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

That's good business EA!!! I call it "Under promise and over deliver."

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

The stock rotor that comes with the ReVtech 17.5 is supposed to be a 12.3mm "broad power band", correct?

I cracked mine open for the first time yesterday to clean it(motor is fairly new, purchased 2 weeks ago) and noticed:
a) It was 12.5mm in diameter
b) It had a turquoise ring at the bottom, which indicates it is the 12.5mm "high torque" rotor, according to my internet research.

I did notice that the motor didn't seem to pull as many Rs as I would like(and as much as some of my competition).

What is a good rotor choice for 17.5 blinky touring car? The 12.3mm broad power band? Maybe a 12.5mm high rpm?

R.Fenstermacher

iTrader: (20)

Hey Eric sent you a Pm

seaball

iTrader: (9)

wow. crazy find. all your thoughts are correct as far as i know. mine had the purple ring on it. i didn't measure it, but i'll assume it is the correct 12.3 in mine. certainly explains the gearing discrepancy, eh?

ea has run the rotor you have, and liked it, so you might want to sit tight on that as they are widely unavailable at the moment. he also mentioned cranking back the timing to the 4th hash mark (not going past it as the endbell will strangely allow). i ordered the 'dark blue' rotor (12.3 torque) and it came in with less gauss than the standard rotor that's in there. go figure the qc still sucks at that place.

at any rate, you might want to keep throwing some gear at the motor, assuming you were being careful since all of us were indicating we stay over 4. (i'm now right at 4.0 with a different (purple) rotor - and coming off at 125* - wth, right??)

sandsurfer

iTrader: (20)

May be a dumb question, but how do you know what the timing is on the motor. There is a line at about the 9 o'clock position then a gap before a series of 9 lines then a "+" symbol. The "0" is at the 5th line, straight out of the box. No explanation in the instructions.

Thanks in advance,
Gary

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Yes, certainly explains the difference in our gearing.

The biggest issue is that my local track that I predominantly race at specs a max final drive of 3.8 for our blinky class. I think that the 12.5mm high torque rotor might work quite well at bigger/other races with unrestricted gearing. Im not using a heatsink or a fan(and this is in Texas with 95-100F ambient temps) and the motor was coming off the track at 135-50F.

Im guessing it could easily pull down to a 3.6 fdr without burning up. Maybe lower with a fan.

Regardless, with a max fdr of 3.8 I need a bit more rpm. I think Im gonna try the 12.5mm high rpm or just the "stock" 12.3mm wide power band.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

yep, yep. i missed that you were limited on FDR. sounds like you have it under control.

sandsurfer - the sensor board has +30* in it. externally, each of those lines are ~ 5* apart. moving the "0" clockwise from center will subtract timing, and vice versa, making the overall timing range around 2 - 58*. it's more common, however, just to refer to the external timing for reference, since the internal advance of the board is not adjustable/tunable.