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Old 01-22-2005, 01:54 AM   #1231
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Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Hey guys just got my new DSL up and going at our new house. I can finally get on line at some speed!!

Take note of the new email address. EAMotorsports@bellsouth.net

Thanks

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P.S. Batteries will be in stock by the end of next week
EA.. sent you a PM about maintaining your email

- chris
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Old 01-22-2005, 12:54 PM   #1232
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Thax for the info..
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:17 PM   #1233
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Just to let ya know, Colin (hiya, lol) has been sorting me out with EA stock motors for our indoor season over here in ireland, and I can only say one thing, they have been awesome, out performing any other car straight out of the packet, or should I say motor tube.

Got my first F line brushes during the week there and tried running them today.
Before I put the motor in the car I tried running it on my motor checker and it just wouldnt rev up, and it cut out, tried three different pairs of F line brushes in two motors and still no joy.
Put in a set of 4499's and hey presto the motors ran fine. Do the brushes need modified or bedded in to run in an EA roar stock? Or what am I doing wrong?

Thanx in advance.
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Old 01-22-2005, 07:44 PM   #1234
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minibutmight- It may be because the motor is now pulling amps over what your checker shuts down at. Did you try running it in the car, or only on the checker? Even with T30-35, if the motor pulls too hard it will shut it down.
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:56 PM   #1235
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This is the first I have heard of this problem. Ive not had this happen to me or anyone else that I know of. You may just check the face of the brush and make sure its shiny and doesnt have any mold release film on it. Ive heard of people having a ton of success by reserrating the brushes when new...never tried it myself though.

Let me know what you find out. Id like to be able to pass on the info to any one else who encounters this problem.

Thanks!!

EA

Quote:
Originally posted by minibutmighty
Just to let ya know, Colin (hiya, lol) has been sorting me out with EA stock motors for our indoor season over here in ireland, and I can only say one thing, they have been awesome, out performing any other car straight out of the packet, or should I say motor tube.

Got my first F line brushes during the week there and tried running them today.
Before I put the motor in the car I tried running it on my motor checker and it just wouldnt rev up, and it cut out, tried three different pairs of F line brushes in two motors and still no joy.
Put in a set of 4499's and hey presto the motors ran fine. Do the brushes need modified or bedded in to run in an EA roar stock? Or what am I doing wrong?

Thanx in advance.
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:03 PM   #1236
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Photo isnt that clear, but its the EA brushes and monster after three runs, fairly low wear on the face of the brushes, still serrations on there!
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:54 PM   #1237
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Quote:
Originally posted by minibutmighty
Just to let ya know, Colin (hiya, lol) has been sorting me out with EA stock motors for our indoor season over here in ireland, and I can only say one thing, they have been awesome, out performing any other car straight out of the packet, or should I say motor tube.

Got my first F line brushes during the week there and tried running them today.
Before I put the motor in the car I tried running it on my motor checker and it just wouldnt rev up, and it cut out, tried three different pairs of F line brushes in two motors and still no joy.
Put in a set of 4499's and hey presto the motors ran fine. Do the brushes need modified or bedded in to run in an EA roar stock? Or what am I doing wrong?

Thanx in advance.
gay focker is correct. i put the F-brushes in my EA epic roar stock last sunday (fresh cut, fresh brushes, no mods). i set it to 3V. in about 2-3 seconds. it pulled over 14amps and the motor checker (team much more racing) shut down saying the "amps was too high".

not bad if you ask me.

i lowered the voltage (for break-in to 2V) and the motor was pulling close 10.5 to 11.5 amps.

on the track.... well see my previous post for results.
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:03 PM   #1238
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My monster was pulling 9A at 2V on my pulsar comp. No fade over 5 minutes either!
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:40 PM   #1239
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See it`s good to talk
Me & EA are learning things all the time

Keep us up to date mini
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:57 PM   #1240
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
See it`s good to talk
Me & EA are learning things all the time

Keep us up to date mini
Shot you a PM Colin
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:06 AM   #1241
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colin told me about this mould on the face some ppl have noticed, mine look fine.

I tried running the motors on my older version turbo 30 charger, and another guys newer turbo 35 charger, and both times it cut out at 3volts and 2 volts and 4 volts.
Turbo thirty just said amps were too high, was running bout 14 amps before it cut out.

Also tried the motors on an orion digital motor checker and as the volts were increased the motor just stayed at a constant rpm, were as with 4499's it would rev up.(incidently if the F line brushes out perform this combo indoors I would be very impressed).

I Even tried a set of brushes not soldered on to convince myself that I hadnt over heated them with the soldering iron.

Didnt try it in the car on track because I wasnt gonna bank on them working for an important qualifying run in the car when they wouldnt work out of the car. I'll try them in practice next day.

The comm's of both roar's were freshly cut and motors properly cleaned and cans zapped. And even after tryin them and then just firing in a set of standard 4499's in a hurry to get to the line, it went out and had more power than anybody else and set TQ and fastest indivdual lap of qualifying with a semi setup car.


Thing is Im going to do a dyno session with a few other guys before we go to the scottish indoor GP, and if we cant get them running how can we compare them?

Ps. What do these guys you speak of use for reseratting the brushes, excuse my ignorance, lol, never done much modifications to brushes. Oh and do you guys use anything like comm drops?
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:36 AM   #1242
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I ran into a simular problem with the F brushes. I was at the January Jam at RC Madness last weekend and monsters were the handouts. I did all the usual prep work( cut comm, align hoods, shim arm). Put a pair of F's in with red and green springs. Borke in for 5 min. then recut the comm. Only was able to pull 8-9 amps at 3 volts and on the track I was way down on power. I even tried red/red springs and nothing changed. Keep in mind that I had two handout motors and had the same results with both. I changed out the brushes with 767's and the motors ripped. I haven't tried them in any of my EA motors yet. What should I try next?
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:09 PM   #1243
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i run a monster that colin sorted out for me, using f-line brush's I run it up on the pulsar at 2v. it pulled 8amps, i thought this was high!! but i dont know any better any way out of curiousty i run an EA roar with 767's in and it only pulled 3.8amps at the same rate. im not sure of my results but if any one could explain the differance that would be great

i must say that the car didnt have much punch out of corner's but my cells are not the greatest. ( im getting new ones soon )
and was running at 7.7-7.9 ratio in a pro-4

thanks guys hope my info can help some others out

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Old 01-23-2005, 02:16 PM   #1244
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Guys first of all you are looking at the wrong thing- you can't rely on amps at 2V with the F brushes. The fastest motor I own is an EA monster out of the box of motors EA was selling at Nashville and it only pull 5.7-6 amps @ 2V and only showed 58watts on a Fantom dyno. It just doesn't look like it will be fast on anything but the CE turbodyno. Put it on the track and she rocks!!

My point is, don't tune the amps, you won't get anywhere. Just set the brushes up like Eric and run it. I can usually run 1, possibly 2 teeth higher gearing with the F brushes.
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:26 PM   #1245
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Hey Big Dog or Eric,

I just bought some F brushes, do you have or can you link me to the proper way to use the brushes.

Thanks,

Nick

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