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Old 02-05-2007, 04:56 PM   #5356
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Good luck to all the EA drivers attending Birds. Keep everyone in line E. After everyone is done, stop by the WinNats and watch some great gas onroad racing. And if anyone is doing both races...more power to ya! That's definitely a R/C Iron Man challenge.
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:18 PM   #5357
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Quote:
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Good luck to all the EA drivers attending Birds. Keep everyone in line E. After everyone is done, stop by the WinNats and watch some great gas onroad racing. And if anyone is doing both races...more power to ya! That's definitely a R/C Iron Man challenge.

Toso, Barry Baker are a coulpe of Iron workers doing both..
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:48 AM   #5358
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here`s pic of Elliots car which with the EA roar & F-lines

5 qualifyers & 3 legged finals
Elliot TQ 4 out of 5 rounds & was the only lad (yes he is young in the 3 finals to do 21 lappers all the other slow coach`s were on 20 lappers
Full Face F-line red/purple 8.2 fdr he could get 3 on pace races on 1 set of F`s

if only i could race that fast
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:37 AM   #5359
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oi do you have permisson to show that photo by the taker???
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:12 PM   #5360
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Default Da Birds....

EA guys are laying it down , Wally Gater bring back some lumber ..Eric nice downsizing it looks like it working , Great job ..
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:50 PM   #5361
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Is he running tamiya shocks?
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:34 AM   #5362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray
Is he running tamiya shocks?
yes.
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Old 02-09-2007, 02:09 AM   #5363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray
Is he running tamiya shocks?
It like anything, you get one person that trys something new and it works ok, and before you know it everyone around you is doing the same.

The Tamiya shocks where first tried by a guy that races with Elliot and they seemed to work quite well, now everyone in there group that runs the T2'007 has them fitted.

You will need to ask Nathan Parker about this.

In all honesty, the std shocks that come supplied with the kits are more then good enough in my opinion.
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Old 02-09-2007, 02:53 AM   #5364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by part-time racer
It like anything, you get one person that trys something new and it works ok, and before you know it everyone around you is doing the same.

The Tamiya shocks where first tried by a guy that races with Elliot and they seemed to work quite well, now everyone in there group that runs the T2'007 has them fitted.

You will need to ask Nathan Parker about this.

In all honesty, the std shocks that come supplied with the kits are more then good enough in my opinion.
they actually look like the serpent shocks from the 720 no? aren't the tamiya jobbies blue?
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Old 02-09-2007, 04:47 AM   #5365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosta
they actually look like the serpent shocks from the 720 no? aren't the tamiya jobbies blue?
Not sure what colour the shocks are in TRF kits but in this case they are tamiya shocks. I built a set up last year for a mate with a yokomo and they where this matt grey colour. I'm also certain because I saw Nathan at Maritime on the night he first tryed them.

Good luck at Rug Racers mate.
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Old 02-09-2007, 04:51 AM   #5366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by part-time racer
Not sure what colour the shocks are in TRF kits but in this case they are tamiya shocks. I built a set up last year for a mate with a yokomo and they where this matt grey colour. I'm also certain because I saw Nathan at Maritime on the night he first tryed them.

Good luck at Rug Racers mate.
cheers rich got myself a couple of new speedo's and have been rebuilding my EA atlas's this week finally got the whole hood alignment thing sorted so should have no power problems this time
A final here i come baby!!!!
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Old 02-09-2007, 04:56 AM   #5367
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I checked the alignment on my ea atlas at the last round of c/wars and i couldn't push my much more alignment tool through? undid everything properely and managed to get it a bit better but as soon as i tryed to tighten it back up it goes stiff again?

In the end i got it good but i still can't slide the bar through nicely. Did a c2 and a moneymaker whit no problem.
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:36 AM   #5368
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tip
your not supposed to get the bar to go directly through the hoods nicely

brush`s are a loose fit in the hoods so they cocked to one side when motor spins up ,what you do to compensate for that is `hood alighment process) & this means most of the time the hoods are slightly off the each other thus the `Bar` will be restricted to pass through smoothly

Now you lot have undone all of EA`s work in alighning the hoods properly for you ,

i have noticed certain `other` people down the wars getting the `Bar` & shoving it through

take it from me ,this is not the way to do it
the Bar is for moving `Either` side of the hoods with out deforming the brush hood it`s self ,also the bar can be used to put in hood channel then close up the channel with a pair of pliers to make it a more snug fit to the brush that is being used at the time


if you want more info on this go to the stock thread ,
don`t want to jam up EA`s thread with other stuff
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Old 02-09-2007, 05:53 AM   #5369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
tip
your not supposed to get the bar to go directly through the hoods nicely

brush`s are a loose fit in the hoods so they cocked to one side when motor spins up ,what you do to compensate for that is `hood alighment process) & this means most of the time the hoods are slightly off the each other thus the `Bar` will be restricted to pass through smoothly

Now you lot have undone all of EA`s work in alighning the hoods properly for you ,

i have noticed certain `other` people down the wars getting the `Bar` & shoving it through

take it from me ,this is not the way to do it
the Bar is for moving `Either` side of the hoods with out deforming the brush hood it`s self ,also the bar can be used to put in hood channel then close up the channel with a pair of pliers to make it a more snug fit to the brush that is being used at the time


if you want more info on this go to the stock thread ,
don`t want to jam up EA`s thread with other stuff
col's on the money there Rich your not supposed to get them straight across from one another, i've been doing them individually as when you do it straight across there aligned to the comm but not taking into account the cocking colin mentioned. Also i've only done it when i'm changing the type of brush say from an f line to a 4499 as they are different sizes and will move more in the hood.

@ EA
one thing i wanted to ask is how offen do hoods go out of alignment?
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Old 02-09-2007, 06:00 AM   #5370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
tip
your not supposed to get the bar to go directly through the hoods nicely

brush`s are a loose fit in the hoods so they cocked to one side when motor spins up ,what you do to compensate for that is `hood alighment process) & this means most of the time the hoods are slightly off the each other thus the `Bar` will be restricted to pass through smoothly

Now you lot have undone all of EA`s work in alighning the hoods properly for you ,

i have noticed certain `other` people down the wars getting the `Bar` & shoving it through

take it from me ,this is not the way to do it
the Bar is for moving `Either` side of the hoods with out deforming the brush hood it`s self ,also the bar can be used to put in hood channel then close up the channel with a pair of pliers to make it a more snug fit to the brush that is being used at the time


if you want more info on this go to the stock thread ,
don`t want to jam up EA`s thread with other stuff

Thanks for the info colin, you learn something new everyday. And I posted this question in here because its an ea product.
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