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Old 11-05-2005, 08:51 PM   #3136
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Hey Eric you should have an email from me as well
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Old 11-05-2005, 09:22 PM   #3137
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Could some one help me out with a prob i`m having with my EA Motorsports 27T, it`s got me beat...

The first meet i used it it SCREAMED for the first heat (IB3600 & 6.92 to 1 ratio), 2nd heat it started off really good (about 10 laps) then lost power & eventually stopped (battery OK). Took the springs off & moved the brushes seemed to fix it for the Final. When i got home completly stripped & cleaned & tested fine.

Today (2nd time used) the same prob but this time using matched IB3800`s for the 1st heat...2nd heat really slow (like when your battery dumps) only about 2 laps. For the final i used a Nosram 3600, no probs just pulled on the brushes b4 starting.

One thing i did notice after using the IB3800`s the comm had gone a blackish colour & after using the Nosram 3600 (no cut between) it went back to the copper colour.

To me it seems to be a sticky brush....BUT WHY Oh yeah it has the out of the box "spring/brush" combo.

Sorry for the longish thread

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Last edited by NOZ69; 11-05-2005 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 11-05-2005, 11:01 PM   #3138
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It sounds like a hung brush like you said. Use a comm stick to clean out the inside of the brush hood and make sure the brush slides freely inside it. Try cleaning the outside of the brush with motor spray on a towel. Make sure there's no solder from soldering the brush on thats inside the brush hood and maybe contacting the brush.

I've never seen a comm turn black and then go back to copper . Maybe it got so hot after turning black it turned a rainbow/silver color. When my comms do that it can be hard to tell if it either got really discolored or not at all when it's still in the can. Was the motor getting very hot during your run?
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Old 11-05-2005, 11:09 PM   #3139
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EA- You've got mail.

I ran my EA QM 19 turn motors today at the SoCal GP. Awesome power from the motors as well as the awesome batteries. Bad tire choice stuck me in the B main but I checked out with a race time fast enough to put me in the top of the A.

Thanks Eric.
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Old 11-06-2005, 12:04 AM   #3140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOZ69
Could some one help me out with a prob i`m having with my EA Motorsports 27T, it`s got me beat...

The first meet i used it it SCREAMED for the first heat (IB3600 & 6.92 to 1 ratio), 2nd heat it started off really good (about 10 laps) then lost power & eventually stopped (battery OK). Took the springs off & moved the brushes seemed to fix it for the Final. When i got home completly stripped & cleaned & tested fine.

Today (2nd time used) the same prob but this time using matched IB3800`s for the 1st heat...2nd heat really slow (like when your battery dumps) only about 2 laps. For the final i used a Nosram 3600, no probs just pulled on the brushes b4 starting.

One thing i did notice after using the IB3800`s the comm had gone a blackish colour & after using the Nosram 3600 (no cut between) it went back to the copper colour.

To me it seems to be a sticky brush....BUT WHY Oh yeah it has the out of the box "spring/brush" combo.

Sorry for the longish thread

Cheers
sticky brush is that ,it causes black comm

when you put 36`s in more then likely the brush wasen`t sticking so it `cleaned` then comm for you
you only need a nats bit of dust in that brush chamber for it to stick
also make sure the brush briad comes from the middle of hood then loop round to where it is soldered

nothing to do with spring/brush combo re;;burnt comm

1 test for sticky brush in hood when you clen it up
pull brush braid out straight ,then push the brush into the hood by the braid only , braid will fold onit`s self if brush gets stuck (get me )
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Old 11-06-2005, 02:06 AM   #3141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mini-dub
It sounds like a hung brush like you said. Use a comm stick to clean out the inside of the brush hood and make sure the brush slides freely inside it. Try cleaning the outside of the brush with motor spray on a towel. Make sure there's no solder from soldering the brush on thats inside the brush hood and maybe contacting the brush.

Was the motor getting very hot during your run?
Yeah... i made sure it was spotless, motor spray & cleaned the hoods with cotton buds (no comm stick).

The motor wasn`t running hot

I`ve been thinking about it all afternoon & the only thing i can think of that was the same both meets...was that i cleaned the car with the air compressor after the 1st heat....SO may be i`ve blown some sh!t into the brushes.

Next meet i`ll tripple check the brushes B4 each heat. As it`s been very frustrating..as B4 this i`ve been up the pointy end.

Thanks for the help

Cheers
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:17 AM   #3142
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I had this same problem with a Monster stock of my own, not EA's. It ended up having a bad wire in the armature. It was broke but not all the way, it would run fine for a few laps until the motor warmed up and then the wire would expand and seperate, then the motor would slow down till it stopped. Not saying that this is your problem but something to think about.
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:37 AM   #3143
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I would check to see that the shunt(wire coming from the brush to the hood) isnt pressed tight to the hood which can happen when adjusting the gear lash and using the endbell to turn the motor. I have seen this happen to alot of guys who dont think to check the shunt after adjusting the lash.
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Old 11-06-2005, 06:36 PM   #3144
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Ran my Dirt modified Saturday night with a new G11 pro and EA Monster stocks Tqed and finished first at Radio Hill Raceway in Dundee, NY

http://www.dirtoval.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13920
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Old 11-06-2005, 07:26 PM   #3145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1M
Ran my Dirt modified Saturday night with a new G11 pro and EA Monster stocks Tqed and finished first at Radio Hill Raceway in Dundee, NY

http://www.dirtoval.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13920
Good run man! What kind of servo are you running with that G-11 speedo?

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Old 11-06-2005, 08:49 PM   #3146
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EAM Team T shirts are on sale now on the site. I only have Medium, Large and X large left in blue and black.

Batteries and motors are on the way this week. Will update as soon as they are ready for sale.

SXT has been added.

Also have some Turbo Dyno slave motor arms from DC Motorsports. Best money you can spend if you are a Turbo dyno owner. Rebuild your slave motor once a year with this!!

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Old 11-07-2005, 06:10 PM   #3147
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PRS gears are back in stock.

116, 118, 124, 126, 128. Smaller ones are still on backorder.

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Old 11-09-2005, 04:55 PM   #3148
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Hey Guys,

Just got the newest date code's in of IB cells and thought I would post a picture to clear up some false information that some people are giving out.

These were also measured WITHOUT cutting the shrink off of the NEG end of the cell which is about .1mm thick. So you can see that the IB's are below ROAR specs. These one was on the longer side from what I measured out of 30 cells.

And before you say I fuged the measurments I can tell you now that is not the case. I have no reason to do that. I just dont like guys spreading false information on the Internet.

EA
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:59 PM   #3149
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EA dont forget about me...
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:01 PM   #3150
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Door prizes?

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