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Old 04-15-2005, 03:32 PM   #2026
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Hey guys, Just want to check something again.

I've got a pair of slotted 767's in my pitbox, how will these compare with full-face ones (which I usually run)?
It's a vertical slot, btw.

Motor is a ROAR, with purple/red.

regards
Ed
Colin pretty much answered this for me.

EA
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Old 04-15-2005, 03:33 PM   #2027
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
you could of asked me that on thursday

you will get more top end ,less heat build up in the middle of brush also,brush will bed in quicker also

next??

EA
haven`t gotten my package yet either, tryhard is giving me a hard time
hey Colin the order left here on Monday...should be there any day.

EA
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Old 04-15-2005, 04:17 PM   #2028
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Hi Guys,

I just picked up an EA stock from our local retailer, Harris RC, and on inspection of the motor the brushes have a cut, about 2/3rds the way up from the borrom of the brush.

What is the effect of this cut in the brush? I also picked up a few pair of the F brushes, how do these compare to 767's in thier silver content? Is it adviseable to cut these brushes in a similar way to how they have been cut on the new EA stock motor I have just bought?

I have read about and had good results with filing off the leading edge of the brushes, what is the real reason this yields better performance? does it in-effect change the timing slightly or is there just less pressure on the comm from the brush?

I have stacks more questions, but i'll spread them out over a couple of weeks so as not to ask too many at once
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Old 04-16-2005, 12:07 AM   #2029
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EA
looks like your be bust the next couple of days with v0rtex

v0rtex
F-line
i would be weary of them f-line, there is no difference (look wise) between the good batch & bad batch
before you race put them on full face ,no prattying around with them just put them on & run up on the dyno 3v if they start to spark badley ,brush is bad ,bin it
the proper f-line (v2) when running had minute little sparks along the edge of the brush
not big ones like a arc welder
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Old 04-16-2005, 12:51 AM   #2030
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EA- Did you get that PM I sent a few days go?

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2005, 07:16 AM   #2031
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY

v0rtex
F-line
i would be weary of them f-line, there is no difference (look wise) between the good batch & bad batch
before you race put them on full face ,no prattying around with them just put them on & run up on the dyno 3v if they start to spark badley ,brush is bad ,bin it
the proper f-line (v2) when running had minute little sparks along the edge of the brush
not big ones like a arc welder
That explains a lot actually..

Just got back from a meeting where I ran a set of F brushes in a motor (TOP27), and the motor was not its usual punchy self. When i was breaking it in, i did notice lots of sparks - more than normal along the leading edge of the brush.

Im in no mood to pull the motor apart right now (sleep is my priority right now!) but i'll dismantle it soon and see what the brushes are like.

its dissapointing to hear the F brushes can be dodgy, I just bought 5 pair..
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Old 04-16-2005, 11:08 AM   #2032
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I know what you mean. The last series race we got 10 pair of F brushes and they ate the comm up. The ran fast for about 2 laps then fell flat. I was disappointed too. The first batch we got really made the motor ballistic. So I was confident going into the last race of the series with several F suited motors. Needless to say my son wasnt too happy to finish in the B when normally he was in the A. He still didnt do too bad over al. He finished 5th in the series. Up till the last race Eric sent us ballistic motors to run. I was sure at the rate things were going up till then he couldve pulled up to 3rd or 4th. Guess I should count on things quite that much. I ended up 10th over all
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Old 04-16-2005, 10:54 PM   #2033
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Default C2 motor!

I've been using your 19 turn motor and once I got the gearing right the motor was great. I was able to keep up with some of our top drivers here. But, now it's time to freshen up the motor and change brushes. The brushes in the motor had serrations with a slot and a hole in the middle. Should I do the same to get the same results? I'm thinking of switching to 4499's or 767's. What should I do?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:47 AM   #2034
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Vortex,

The brushes that Scott got were out of the bad batch....not all were bad but some where. You can contact the manufacture at www.finishlinerc.com and he has been replacing the bad ones.

Maxe

I would go to a 767 with a hole in the face...leave the slot off unless you felt it was really really strong.

EA
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:40 PM   #2035
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Quote:
Originally posted by EAMotorsports
Vortex,

I would go to a 767 with a hole in the face.

EA
They're listed as:

Reedy
Cavity style, serrated laydown
767 compd., stock motor brush
No. 769

Most LHS sell them for $4.00 a pair.

TC

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Old 04-17-2005, 03:11 PM   #2036
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EA this one is for you
I like my motors to rev well but i have heard that it can make your motor over heat is this true ,I know that if you load the motor too much it will over heat but not the other way.
When i was at Aldreshot last weekend i was geared at 6.4 and most people were geared at 6.1 and my motor was coming of quite hot
What do you think
Simon
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:31 PM   #2037
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Simon,

Under gearing a motor will make it run as hot as overgearing it. So you may go up to the gear they are running and see what happens. If your running a motor I sent with the leading and trailing edges flattend out then you may go one tooth more than everyone else. This takes away amp draw, RPM and heat. But adds power and torque which allows you to gear up.

EA
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Old 04-17-2005, 04:14 PM   #2038
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Well, my EA ROAR finally died today unfortuantly. The comm now longer has any copper on it.
Unfortuantly that also left me in a sticky situation, as the spare motor I would have used (my EA monster) has the same problem.... see why I was so desperate for that motor
Anyway, basically was forced to run a Quad mag motor I brought track-side, and I have to say I'm not too impressed. Admitadly having never run a quad before I was struggling to get the gearing spot on. Still the motor lacks torque, and doesn't slow the car as much as a normal one. Really needs to be geared low to get it too work. For example I was running 5.7 on my ROAR in practise, this Quad I was reckon 6.1 would have been about right (i ran 6.3 in the last final, lacked straightline)

Also, I do have to say the prep on that motor was pretty crappy.... I don't know what they'd done to it, but the comm wasn't even true, I had to take shead loads out to get it round, and this is from brand new out the box Something I'm not used to normally running EA's

I can see why some people like the quad mags, but personally i'll take a std mag EA ROAR over one anyday....

BTW Eric, given I now have two spare cans (one ROAR, one monster) can i just put a new armature in? I take it the shimming probably wont's be the same with a new arm?
I only ask, as if it doesn't make too much difference, I'll keep thoose cans for series that require bushings, and the new one I'm getting from colin (plus one more now.. need a new ROAR) with bearings for series that allow them.
Effectively, sharing the arm between cans.

Of course, if it makes a big difference, then I'll just get a couple more motors....but not now, bit cash strapped

Later
Ed
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Old 04-17-2005, 04:25 PM   #2039
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Hey Ed,

The cans and endbells are still fine...You can keep them and put new arms in them and they will be fine. You may have to play with the shimming to get them correct.

Thanks
EA
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Old 04-17-2005, 04:30 PM   #2040
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ok, what should i be looking for on the shimming? How is the best way to adjust it? Is there a certain amount of play I should be looking for? Or is it a case of run it and see (unfortuantly I don't have a dyno... so dificult to compare numbers)
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