Team Scream Racing
#1651
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I can push my stator towards each end of the can, back and forth about 1-1.5mm. I haven't ran it but 1 weekend so far. So it's still pretty much brand new. Maybe I can video it and upload it. There really isn't any way to fix it other than epoxying it in place honestly. Or get some sort of insulator on the output shaft side to sandwich it in.
#1652
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
stator
For the customers that the stator is sliding down in the can or is loose, can you please tell me when you ordered the motor. We had this issue when the motor first came out in September last year. I had the factory change the epoxy used to hold it in place and thought it was taken care off.
What I have had others do is tap the stator back into place towards the sensor side of the motor. Once it is there, you can apply epoxy in the vent holes on the stator sleeve (not the front bearing sleeve with large vent holes) This will keep it in place.
If you do not feel comfortable doing it, please ship it back and I will take care of it for you. Address is below
Team Scream Racing
119 Conant St
Danvers MA 01923
What I have had others do is tap the stator back into place towards the sensor side of the motor. Once it is there, you can apply epoxy in the vent holes on the stator sleeve (not the front bearing sleeve with large vent holes) This will keep it in place.
If you do not feel comfortable doing it, please ship it back and I will take care of it for you. Address is below
Team Scream Racing
119 Conant St
Danvers MA 01923
#1655
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
For the customers that the stator is sliding down in the can or is loose, can you please tell me when you ordered the motor. We had this issue when the motor first came out in September last year. I had the factory change the epoxy used to hold it in place and thought it was taken care off.
What I have had others do is tap the stator back into place towards the sensor side of the motor. Once it is there, you can apply epoxy in the vent holes on the stator sleeve (not the front bearing sleeve with large vent holes) This will keep it in place.
If you do not feel comfortable doing it, please ship it back and I will take care of it for you. Address is below
Team Scream Racing
119 Conant St
Danvers MA 01923
What I have had others do is tap the stator back into place towards the sensor side of the motor. Once it is there, you can apply epoxy in the vent holes on the stator sleeve (not the front bearing sleeve with large vent holes) This will keep it in place.
If you do not feel comfortable doing it, please ship it back and I will take care of it for you. Address is below
Team Scream Racing
119 Conant St
Danvers MA 01923
#1656
This weekend was hot at my track. A very large track. Motor temps were getting up there so I turned down timing to 40 and kept my fdr at 3.8ish. I was noticeably slower in practice. So I decided to try the opposite thing and go back up to 50 on timing and changed fdr to a 4.16. Temps were manageable in the 150/160 degree range but the car came alive. Going to keep it in this ballpark for the summer and see how it goes. This was 17.5 tc. I pulled out a back to back win in usgt and 17.5 this past weekend. Funny that my usgt is timed at 40 and geared at 2.96 and temps stayed around 150/160. Whatever works.
I was planning on trying something similar next raceday.
#1658
1/12
I am running a 17.5 "the 1" and was curious what timing and rollout
should be used on medium length black carpet tracks. I have been
running 40* and 85-86 rollout. I keep hearing about guys running
more timing a much higher rollouts.
On another note, my first TS 17.5 "1" has a loose stator. Thanks for
the epoxy tip. JB weld!
should be used on medium length black carpet tracks. I have been
running 40* and 85-86 rollout. I keep hearing about guys running
more timing a much higher rollouts.
On another note, my first TS 17.5 "1" has a loose stator. Thanks for
the epoxy tip. JB weld!
#1659
I am running a 17.5 "the 1" and was curious what timing and rollout
should be used on medium length black carpet tracks. I have been
running 40* and 85-86 rollout. I keep hearing about guys running
more timing a much higher rollouts.
On another note, my first TS 17.5 "1" has a loose stator. Thanks for
the epoxy tip. JB weld!
should be used on medium length black carpet tracks. I have been
running 40* and 85-86 rollout. I keep hearing about guys running
more timing a much higher rollouts.
On another note, my first TS 17.5 "1" has a loose stator. Thanks for
the epoxy tip. JB weld!
Try 42 to 44* on a motolyser and lower your RO.
What is the length straight?
#1660
#1662
Thanks!
#1663
Have two 17.5 "the ones". Been running my primary about 10 race days. The solder tabs have a lot of play moving left and right. They all move together (not independently). I don't recall if they came that way or not. None of my other brand motors have this much. Is this normal? I don't feel any performance difference but am concerned with the long term life of the motor.
Thx all in advance.
Thx all in advance.
#1664
Have two 17.5 "the ones". Been running my primary about 10 race days. The solder tabs have a lot of play moving left and right. They all move together (not independently). I don't recall if they came that way or not. None of my other brand motors have this much. Is this normal? I don't feel any performance difference but am concerned with the long term life of the motor.
Thx all in advance.
Thx all in advance.
#1665
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I can push my stator towards each end of the can, back and forth about 1-1.5mm. I haven't ran it but 1 weekend so far. So it's still pretty much brand new. Maybe I can video it and upload it. There really isn't any way to fix it other than epoxying it in place honestly. Or get some sort of insulator on the output shaft side to sandwich it in.