Trez83

iTrader: (8)

Thank you all. I will be on a smaller track this weekend and will try a lower timing setting and lower FDR. I hope it will build some heat. I know these motors RIP with a little heat in them. My Fantom 25.5 (in my F1) was keeping up with 17.5 touring cars in practice and has run down Motiv and Reedy 25.5's that have had half a straight lead. I KNOW Fantom motors are killer, this is why I've been stumped.
I will keep you posted.
Seems I also need a motor dyno. Haha. Any recommendations?

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

That's because 1-2 deg of timing om the end bell at the right timing can be the difference between max/perfect timing (depending on the layout, and set up) and over timed.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

To give you an idea how I tune my motors (and others may differ) I use a SkyRC Motor checker to check timing then set the timing for amp draw unloaded (I use 4.5A for 21.5 and 6A for 13.5 and 17.5)

Once timing is set, I then dismantle and shim, check rotor strength (Using a Team Epic Igauss meter but the Fantom Facts checker does the same thing) I then check Stator resistance on a MM2 stator meter and then put the motor back together and dyno it on an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno which has an X-Car 60A Esc attached (everything dynos on the same esc so no variation there) You need an ESC with a hard switch, ones that use a 'push' button won't work too well on the Dyno.

Then during the first few runs I have an Eagletree Data Logger on the car to measure amp draw and motor temp.

Probably overkill for most, but this is the bit that interests me, I'll never be a great driver, some set up concepts are foreign to me, but this I understand.

idbdoug

iTrader: (41)

I'm just curious what other racers are setting their no-load amp draw in 17.5 1/12?
This would be for a RS with a 12.5HT pro-select rotor
idbdoug

Shock Tower

Just to back up some of the previus post by timing settings and gearing for 17.5 M stator. I run A800 indoor on ETS carpets. I adjusted my timing on a motorchecker to 6A draw, and geared it to around 4.20. I run stock/blinky. Plenty of topspeed, and infield bottom. The motor will never go hot hot, but only as hot that i can put my fingers on it after 5 min without burning. This is a very good motor.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

what is the R type motor mean..Not RS just the 17.5R?

TypeR01

iTrader: (6)

does anyone have a recommended gearing and timing for for a 13.5t fantom typeM on large track with a 35 meter straight?

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

for which class, and what rotor do you have?

TypeR01

iTrader: (6)

Blinky and it is the 12.5mm also do you know if they work ok with the Lrp Flow

TypeR01

iTrader: (6)

Reason for asking my orca motors seems to surge or hunt around in rpm

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

What class are you running the 13.5 in?

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

The type r, was the predecessor to the type rs. The type r has less torque and more rpm than the type rs stator.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Sounds like a TFTR query?

I could tell you what I ran at the states to have one of the quickest cars out there (just not quickest driver!) with the exact same motor if you are really nice.

Clive

Fredp1

iTrader: (11)

Try around 4.1 or 4.2. That's what Dean ran the VIC state titles TFTR.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

Sounds right, we go to around 3.7-3.8 at WC with an 80m main straight