Dr Smooth

The Putnam products starts to go down
things looking bad for Him, you call, email
do everything to get a hold of someone
and no reply, that remind me of Trinity
with there customer service no one at
home ever, but still the Putnam drivers
are winning races not looking good, are
Putnam only giving the putnam drivers
the good stuff, this weekend I am testing
the brushs with some other brands to see if the contents of sliver is higher than
the other brands, I will post as soon as
I get the results, all this is been done in
a lab where I have all the capability and
resource to do so, what we as the consumer need to do is stop buying products that state one thing and sell
another to the public and for the highest
price no good, happy racing.

DOC

Ovalman19

I am not sponsored by Todd, but i do use his products and i swear by them...his brushes are second to none, two green laydowns will be killer on any stock motor...don't be so quick to knock the product.

As far as the RPM issue goes, Were the two motors dyno'd on the same brand dyno? Because if they weren't then it's like comparing apples to oranges...

Curtis.

popsracer

Dr Smooth;

Your results would be invaluable to all of us racers, as 99% of the brush suppliers do NOT specify the Silver content of their products.

A chart with the % of Silver for each brush that you've tested would be worth it's weight in Gold!!! (hint, hint)

Thanks,

Kave

iTrader: (17)

well, both of the putnums came from putnum, both of those dyno numbers were from putnum, in their package, i must say it was sad

True R/C Racing

'why didnt You pick a higher Number then? Or not buy at all and go toa diff LHS and check there numbers out.

Speedie

pballkid21587 got his shipped to him.

True R/C Racing

oh, Then Nothin i said works. everyone Gets bad motors Sometimes. Your not always going to have a killer motor even if the Numbers are high. Well it has happened to me

Dr Smooth

Popsracer, the info might not be of any
value to you but for me and a few more
racers I know would like to know that
the silver content is more than what in
the other brushes, for the extra $2.50
more we pay for the brushes, I guess
you have money to blow, I for one already sending too much on this hobby.

Ovalman, I am not bashing any product,
my test on the armature is fact, the armature was not balance and I pay for
rebalance, is was on the web site my man.

Don't get me wrong I just want to go fast
just like everone else so I would expect
the proformance for what I pay for,
happy racing.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

dude, it's PERFORMANCE. i don't usually correct spelling but man that's bothering me.

True R/C Racing

im really bad at my grammar typing on the computer. Be aware I might do it too.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Dr Smooth if the arm was out of balance that bad why dont you try contacting Todd and get him to replace it instead of coming on here talking bad about it? I will give you his number but you will have to leave a message if he doesnt answer and tell him what its in regard to or he will not call you back. If its not for an order or someone that has a problem he doenst have time to chit chat (not saying thats what you want to do) but there are alot that do!!

Eric Anderson

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

EA,

Tell Todd to check his e-mail...... I am waiting on pricing.......

popsracer

Dr Smooth;

I think you misunderstood my post as sarcasm and it was NOT.

Having the information from a lab test of several common/popular brushes to determine the Silver content would (at least for myself) be an invaluable aid in choosing which ones to run.

Please, if you do indeed do your testing. I would be more than greatfull for a copy of the results.

Thanks,

PizzaDude

Dr,

Dito (to Pops), those results would be very interesting.

Will it also show copper and graphite contents?

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

Don't only look at the RPM numbers on those dyno sheets. What was the peak wattage? How much torque does each motor put out? How many amps did it draw and at what RPM?

All motors from ANY manufacturer will never be the same, even engines in a real car. He includes those sheets to show you what that motor produces. You need to take the information from that particular motor and gear accordingly. Generally, your motor should be just maxed out at speed right at the end of the longest straight on your track, before you lift. Adjust slightly up or down from there depending on what you need out of the motor (punch, run-time, etc.)

Personally, I'd prefer punch and power on throttle, and most high RPM motors I have ever had lacked that unless you really geared for their peak power curve.

It's all in the gearing... the dyno sheet is not to compare to your friend's motor, it is so you know what to do with your motor.