Fukuyama Batteries
10-21-2003, 08:18 PM
#976
Tech Fanatic
Yes, this is true...
On my "other companies" batteries, I charge them at 30mV per pack, 5mV per cell...
Now on my new Fukuyama cells, I wanted to do them right, so I was curious if charging at different mV's would affect the batteries that much that it should be changed...
On my "other companies" batteries, I charge them at 30mV per pack, 5mV per cell...
Now on my new Fukuyama cells, I wanted to do them right, so I was curious if charging at different mV's would affect the batteries that much that it should be changed...
10-21-2003, 09:04 PM
#977
with a lower delta peak detection setting the worst thing is have a pack that is not fully charged yet, previously i used 0.012V delta peak on my RC3000
10-21-2003, 09:36 PM
#978
Sorry if this had been asked already.. but at what MV do you recomend charging Fuku packs at? I charge on a Millenium 1.2 and it's currently at 48mV. The problem is.. my packs peak at around 1250 mAh and at 9.2 v. And those times were the 3rd or 4th charge
Thanks
Thanks
10-21-2003, 09:40 PM
#979
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by skiptomylou6
Sorry if this had been asked already.. but at what MV do you recomend charging Fuku packs at? I charge on a Millenium 1.2 and it's currently at 48mV. The problem is.. my packs peak at around 1250 mAh and at 9.2 v. And those times were the 3rd or 4th charge Thanks
Sorry if this had been asked already.. but at what MV do you recomend charging Fuku packs at? I charge on a Millenium 1.2 and it's currently at 48mV. The problem is.. my packs peak at around 1250 mAh and at 9.2 v. And those times were the 3rd or 4th charge
Thanks
10-21-2003, 10:39 PM
#980
I personally think the 48mv works fine. I have a Millennium and use that setting. As for only getting 1250 mah! I am assuming you are not dumping the pack to 5.40 volts before the second and third charge? That being the case I cannot tell you. I dump my packs at 30 amps down to 5.40 volts after every run. Before the first charge of the day I put the pack in an equalization tray. On my Millennium I am getting 3700 to 4000 millivolts. On my GFX I get a little lower mv reading (3500 to 4000).
I hope some of this helps you. I cannot explain the 1250 mah. Must be because the battery still has juice left in it from the previous charge.
Peak voltage. The lower the better. I believe that the lower the peak voltage the lower your ir (internal resistance) is. 9.02 is very good. My packs have a range from 8.85 to 9.05.
All of the above information is from my Fukuyama Racing Batteries.
I hope some of this helps you. I cannot explain the 1250 mah. Must be because the battery still has juice left in it from the previous charge.
Peak voltage. The lower the better. I believe that the lower the peak voltage the lower your ir (internal resistance) is. 9.02 is very good. My packs have a range from 8.85 to 9.05.
All of the above information is from my Fukuyama Racing Batteries.
10-21-2003, 11:47 PM
#981
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
WAHOOOOOOOOOO!
Just as I posted last someone knocked at the door, guess who?...
FedEx!!!!!!!!!
YAY
YAY
YAY
YIPPIE!!!!!!!
WAHOOOOOOOOOO!
Just as I posted last someone knocked at the door, guess who?...
FedEx!!!!!!!!!
YAY
YAY
YAY
YIPPIE!!!!!!!
you do realize that it only took one day right?
Dan
10-21-2003, 11:49 PM
#982
Originally posted by Herminator
Probably wouldn't be blonde once he's unwrapped the parcel though
Hey Fukuyama guys, HAT Racing is still waiting for an email
Probably wouldn't be blonde once he's unwrapped the parcel though
Hey Fukuyama guys, HAT Racing is still waiting for an email
Sorry about the delay as we're trying to redo our listings and change some of the structures after this month. I'll send you the list in a couple of days. Sorry again.
DAn
10-21-2003, 11:52 PM
#983
Originally posted by Fire
i just got my packs also
the stupid custom didn't show any respect when they "examine" the batteries, they just ripped the box open
they only know how to pick on small citizens but never work on the serious stuff, what a waste of tax
hopefully they didn't ruin my batteries
i just got my packs also
the stupid custom didn't show any respect when they "examine" the batteries, they just ripped the box open
they only know how to pick on small citizens but never work on the serious stuff, what a waste of tax
hopefully they didn't ruin my batteries
Dan
10-21-2003, 11:54 PM
#984
Originally posted by Jasonchi
I'm kind of confused too. If .5 per cell, isn't it suppose to be 30mv, since 5x6(cells) = 30. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm kind of confused too. If .5 per cell, isn't it suppose to be 30mv, since 5x6(cells) = 30. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
On the millenium, I'd go with between 30mv to 48mv without hurting the cells.
Dan
10-22-2003, 12:03 AM
#985
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
Hermi,
Sorry about the delay as we're trying to redo our listings and change some of the structures after this month. I'll send you the list in a couple of days. Sorry again.
DAn
Hermi,
Sorry about the delay as we're trying to redo our listings and change some of the structures after this month. I'll send you the list in a couple of days. Sorry again.
DAn
10-22-2003, 12:19 AM
#986
Charging/Discharging revisited
I geuss RbLove has answered most of the charging questions. But to add a little more is that TEMP is the key. If you temp check it, if it reaches over 160f, then it's too much. You want to stay within 140f to 155f. This would mean linear peak detection of .03 to .05 (do not let air blow on it). Amperage wise, you can set it at 5 amps, 6 amps and sometimes 6.5 amps if you want to go all out and get the most power with lessen runtime. We would only suggest 6 amps because that's what we match them at.
Now for discharging, the main reason most matchers including ourselves have suggested discharging it at 30 amps is because these cells were trained and matched at that level of output to obtain the numbers. Another common reason is because other matchers are advertising that THAT is the industry standard and anything less is bad doodoo. To be quite honest, if you're running a stock motor, it will never see an amp draw of 30 during regular operation. In mod, you will see and sometimes exceed that depending on what wind you're running. It is still though, suggested that you discharge at 30 amps simply to remain at the same discharge level as the matchers did to match the cells. When doing that it not only helps the cell to train itself but will also have the numbers readings reflecting whats on the label. It is similar to a workout so the heavier ( in terms of more amp) the stronger it will excercise. Although my personal experience is that when I run the packs 2 to 3 times a week for practice, I'd like to let it rest in between and discharge it at 20 amps to train it with a little more runtime. But then I'm a stocker and hardly run mod. Either way, it's actually fine.
A funny story tonight. I was pitting right below an air duct at Socal Raceway so I couldn't get the pack to peak correctly and the temp was off. So in the last few minutes of the charge on my turbo GFX, I covered the pack with a small hand towel as a blanket so I can run the packs warm. It peaked fine and the pack was warm and ideal to be raced. I ended up starting the 1st heat from last place, and came 1st. Second heat, I started 1st and TQ all the way. Did the same thing and in the A-main just took off and came in with the win. I was running some old Fukuyam packs too.
Had to take some driving lessons from our very own rctech RANDMAN. LOL But it was really fun and had a little break from the matching labs. 
Dan
Now for discharging, the main reason most matchers including ourselves have suggested discharging it at 30 amps is because these cells were trained and matched at that level of output to obtain the numbers. Another common reason is because other matchers are advertising that THAT is the industry standard and anything less is bad doodoo. To be quite honest, if you're running a stock motor, it will never see an amp draw of 30 during regular operation. In mod, you will see and sometimes exceed that depending on what wind you're running. It is still though, suggested that you discharge at 30 amps simply to remain at the same discharge level as the matchers did to match the cells. When doing that it not only helps the cell to train itself but will also have the numbers readings reflecting whats on the label. It is similar to a workout so the heavier ( in terms of more amp) the stronger it will excercise. Although my personal experience is that when I run the packs 2 to 3 times a week for practice, I'd like to let it rest in between and discharge it at 20 amps to train it with a little more runtime. But then I'm a stocker and hardly run mod. Either way, it's actually fine.
A funny story tonight. I was pitting right below an air duct at Socal Raceway so I couldn't get the pack to peak correctly and the temp was off. So in the last few minutes of the charge on my turbo GFX, I covered the pack with a small hand towel as a blanket so I can run the packs warm. It peaked fine and the pack was warm and ideal to be raced. I ended up starting the 1st heat from last place, and came 1st. Second heat, I started 1st and TQ all the way. Did the same thing and in the A-main just took off and came in with the win. I was running some old Fukuyam packs too.
Had to take some driving lessons from our very own rctech RANDMAN. LOL But it was really fun and had a little break from the matching labs. Dan
10-22-2003, 12:20 AM
#987
Originally posted by Herminator
OK, np, thanks for letting us know. Hope we can work something out
OK, np, thanks for letting us know. Hope we can work something out
Dan
10-22-2003, 01:27 AM
#988
Tech Adept
Dan, YGPM
10-22-2003, 03:05 AM
#989
Tech Addict
Battery Temps
I have found setting the peak to different #s depending on the condition of the pack and how much of a charge it had in it and ambient temp all can effect peak setting.
If the pack is dead, and trayed, peak deosn't need to be as high.
If you are charging at a higher amp rate, use a slightly lower peak.
If the batteries are half charged, Raise the peak so they are good and warm after the charge is complete.
Charging at a lower amp rate can use a slightly higher peak.
If a pack is cold from out side or just a cool day, raise the peak to make it warm, and if its 90 in the shade, cut it back a little.
All these are for the goal of getting a good 'n warm pack off the charger ready to race. These settings are still between the 30 to 50 Mv (.030 to .050 VOLTS) range for the whole pack. Getting a consistant temp when done charging is going to make for more consistant racing.
Just my thoughts, I hope The FU guys don't mind. Please correct me if I am wrong.
No one answered my Q about the power cube battereies having a label on them. Have they been run through the matcher?
Skip,
If my packs are going to false peak it seems to be around the 10 minute mark or 1,000 to 1,200 Ah. Are your packs warm? Did you start with a partially charged pack?
David Root
If the pack is dead, and trayed, peak deosn't need to be as high.
If you are charging at a higher amp rate, use a slightly lower peak.
If the batteries are half charged, Raise the peak so they are good and warm after the charge is complete.
Charging at a lower amp rate can use a slightly higher peak.
If a pack is cold from out side or just a cool day, raise the peak to make it warm, and if its 90 in the shade, cut it back a little.
All these are for the goal of getting a good 'n warm pack off the charger ready to race. These settings are still between the 30 to 50 Mv (.030 to .050 VOLTS) range for the whole pack. Getting a consistant temp when done charging is going to make for more consistant racing.
Just my thoughts, I hope The FU guys don't mind. Please correct me if I am wrong.
No one answered my Q about the power cube battereies having a label on them. Have they been run through the matcher?
Skip,
If my packs are going to false peak it seems to be around the 10 minute mark or 1,000 to 1,200 Ah. Are your packs warm? Did you start with a partially charged pack?
David Root
10-22-2003, 06:39 AM
#990
Great conversation guys. These cells are crutial to being run warm as Daniel says to get the most output to win races! Follow the guidelines and you'll do great!
David - as it says per the website on the power cube
This is a BOX of 18 cells brand new, unassembled high voltage race pack for the true racers. Good for 3 full packs for practice or competition racing at a fraction of the cost of high cost matched packs. These cells have been "Power Enhanced" with our State of the Arts CORE ENHANCEMENT TECHNOLOGY system. The voltage averages between 1.145v to 1.160. Great for the basher or people who need practice packs at an affordable price!
They have been processed the same as matched cells but are not labeled with specific values. The avg voltage ranges from 1.145 to 1.160 as per above. After speaking to Daniel, maybe these power cubes are even higher cause they are getting exterordinary high voltage cells on average.
Hope this answers your questions. Feel free to ask if you any more.
John
David - as it says per the website on the power cube
This is a BOX of 18 cells brand new, unassembled high voltage race pack for the true racers. Good for 3 full packs for practice or competition racing at a fraction of the cost of high cost matched packs. These cells have been "Power Enhanced" with our State of the Arts CORE ENHANCEMENT TECHNOLOGY system. The voltage averages between 1.145v to 1.160. Great for the basher or people who need practice packs at an affordable price!
They have been processed the same as matched cells but are not labeled with specific values. The avg voltage ranges from 1.145 to 1.160 as per above. After speaking to Daniel, maybe these power cubes are even higher cause they are getting exterordinary high voltage cells on average.
Hope this answers your questions. Feel free to ask if you any more.
John