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Old 08-16-2012, 05:55 PM   #1276
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+1 Using a RPM rotor I used gear range from 4.0-4.5 and up to +7* endbell timing with good success. With stock rotor you can try gearing 3.9 FDR.
Anyone using a murff 17.5 with an Orion r10 in blinky stock. Just put one in and figured its going to be a little different then my Tekin.
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:27 PM   #1277
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Anyone using a murff 17.5 with an Orion r10 in blinky stock. Just put one in and figured its going to be a little different then my Tekin.
I believe Matt, mentioned starting to test with one recently.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:42 AM   #1278
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MurfDogg,

I purchased one of your batteries back in June and noticed that it has puffed to the point I can not mount it in my car. I always balance charge my batteries on my hyperion720. This was used twice during the day about twice a month in 17.5 blinky sedan class. The numbers still look good and still runs strong but I can't use it anymore since I can't strap it down flat in my TC. Can this be repaired or am I stuck with a new paperweight?

Jeff
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:58 AM   #1279
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MurfDogg,

I purchased one of your batteries back in June and noticed that it has puffed to the point I can not mount it in my car. I always balance charge my batteries on my hyperion720. This was used twice during the day about twice a month in 17.5 blinky sedan class. The numbers still look good and still runs strong but I can't use it anymore since I can't strap it down flat in my TC. Can this be repaired or am I stuck with a new paperweight?

Jeff
Jeff,
I had a similar issue with other brand packs when I first began using LiPo. After gathering more information about LiPo care, I found my problem to be with improper storage between usage (Race days). Recommend placing a storage charge on packs between race days to prevent LiPo swelling. This process fixed the issues and I had with no further encounters. Will forward your message to Matt and see what he recommends.
Thank you,
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #1280
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It's not a storage issue. I always put a storage charge even if I'm racing the next day. I have several other batteries that I didn't have an issue with. Also noticed.that he IR went up slightly. My best pack has been the thunderpower. I'm just a lil disappointed paying that much for a battery and not being able to use it.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:41 AM   #1281
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I am looking for a smoother powerband than the T!@#n fourpole motors and would like to go back to to a two pole motor. I am thinking of Murfdogg 6.5 for my Durango shortcourse. I am looking for guidance on whether or not this is a good idea.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:23 PM   #1282
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I am looking for a smoother powerband than the T!@#n fourpole motors and would like to go back to to a two pole motor. I am thinking of Murfdogg 6.5 for my Durango shortcourse. I am looking for guidance on whether or not this is a good idea.
I have run a 6.5 and a 5.5 when I ran a SC10 4w. I think the standard motor would be a great choice for that chassis. For me it was more filimular power to run. The power curve and punch was great with the 6.5. If you run on a big track and the two shorty pack mod done you might like the 5.5 more. If you order the motor directly from Matt he can build it like the motors he built for me to run 4w SC. I did have a fan added to the chassis to help keep the ESC and motor cool and I could run too lipo cut off without worry of the temps of either.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:36 PM   #1283
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I do run two shorty's packs in the car but my track isnt big and it has many short chutes that lead to 180* turns. Smoother is defintiely faster on this track so I am looking for alternative motor choices. Although I will probably be the only one lol. Almost everyone else runs 4600 and I already moved down to a 4000. Sometimes less is more.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:48 PM   #1284
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I do run two shorty's packs in the car but my track isnt big and it has many short chutes that lead to 180* turns. Smoother is defintiely faster on this track so I am looking for alternative motor choices. Although I will probably be the only one lol. Almost everyone else runs 4600 and I already moved down to a 4000. Sometimes less is more.
Yes less is more indoors. Most run the bigger motors here too but there is no problem running out front with them with the smaller motor. I think my truck weight was in the 96oz range. I have raced plenty events that the top two trucks had standard motors in the am I was one of them.

Contact Matt at dirtoval9@aol.com and let him know you are looking for a 4SC motor like the ones he built for Cameron Kellogg.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:50 PM   #1285
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Originally Posted by Meilleur View Post
It's not a storage issue. I always put a storage charge even if I'm racing the next day. I have several other batteries that I didn't have an issue with. Also noticed.that he IR went up slightly. My best pack has been the thunderpower. I'm just a lil disappointed paying that much for a battery and not being able to use it.
Jeff, you have PM. Hope this is of assistance.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:31 PM   #1286
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What timing are you guys running for a 2WD buggy? B4.1. I have the new black can 8.5 motor.

Also anyone having issues with the shaft being too long and hitting the cover plate?

The issues with the Tekin RS. Has that been resolved?
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:41 PM   #1287
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What timing are you guys running for a 2WD buggy? B4.1. I have the new black can 8.5 motor.

Also anyone having issues with the shaft being too long and hitting the cover plate?

The issues with the Tekin RS. Has that been resolved?
Apologies for the late reply, due to being out of town. Recommend setting timing at 0*. If you need to smooth out bottom end, you can set timing to -5* or use ESC current limiter to reduce initial wheel spin. Have only seen issues with Tekin RS/Modified motors when used in 4WD platforms. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:58 PM   #1288
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
What timing are you guys running for a 2WD buggy? B4.1. I have the new black can 8.5 motor.

Also anyone having issues with the shaft being too long and hitting the cover plate?

The issues with the Tekin RS. Has that been resolved?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerjkb View Post
Apologies for the late reply, due to being out of town. Recommend setting timing at 0*. If you need to smooth out bottom end, you can set timing to -5* or use ESC current limiter to reduce initial wheel spin. Have only seen issues with Tekin RS/Modified motors when used in 4WD platforms. Hope this is helpful.
Like Jason says setting the ESC at zero timing is the best with the lower wind motors. Running ESC timing just makes crazy power and the buggy wants to do wheelies everywhere. If you feel you need some timing I suggest running in dual mod. It mellows out the power feed of the timing. Just remember that the timing numbers are a percentage value with 100 being 30deg in dual mod. I personally think zero timing and more gear is the way to go in mod buggy.

I have had a couple rotors that did have long shafts on them. You can space the cover out a 1mm or so or cut the shaft. The long shaft was nice in the SC10 4x4 because the pinion is out so far. I have run Losi and AE buggies and normally grinding a little on the cover and 1mm is plenty for the shaft to gain clearance.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:37 AM   #1289
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Merry Christmas everyone
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:28 PM   #1290
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Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas and best wishes to all!
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