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Old 09-01-2011, 04:31 PM   #1051
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MurfDogg Racing is proud to announce that we will be sponsoring the 2011 IIC race in Las Vegas! We will have our own team pitting area as well as a display of our latest products. If you will be attending IIC this year, please stop by and say hey!

See you guys soon!

I know I cant wait to race WGT at IIC this year!
That's great news! I don't run on-road but I can drink and gamble real good.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:49 PM   #1052
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Perfect, get out to Vegas and party in the MurfDogg pits!
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:05 AM   #1053
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hey guys, can someone pm me the email to order a motor? is it the same as the website?
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:28 AM   #1054
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For those using Murfdogg motors in the Asc TC6... are offset spur gears required(ie: Xray 64p offset)?

The longer shaft makes orienting the pinion in the "normal" direction such that it does not mesh with the spur.... and reversing it causes the front belt to rub the pinion "butt"...

Edit: This is with standard spurs.
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Old 09-04-2011, 02:14 PM   #1055
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
For those using Murfdogg motors in the Asc TC6... are offset spur gears required(ie: Xray 64p offset)?

The longer shaft makes orienting the pinion in the "normal" direction such that it does not mesh with the spur.... and reversing it causes the front belt to rub the pinion "butt"...

Edit: This is with standard spurs.
heya

ive always used the rw racing "superlite" spurs and have been fine with my TC6, you will have to turn the pinion around so the grub screw is facing the battery

Ed
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Old 09-05-2011, 07:37 AM   #1056
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heya

ive always used the rw racing "superlite" spurs and have been fine with my TC6, you will have to turn the pinion around so the grub screw is facing the battery

Ed
Thanks for the info. With my current 48p gears, when I reverse the pinion so the grub screw is facing the battery, the front belt lightly rubs on the underside of the pinion.

I have a bunch of 64p gears coming, so I can experiment further.


In the TC6 thread, the guys are saying that they "extend" the flat spot on the rotor shaft with a dremel. Is this recommended/safe? I don't doubt the experience of those who have made this mod, but it seems like it would be difficult to make a uniform flat spot with a hand tool.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:13 AM   #1057
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Thanks for the info. With my current 48p gears, when I reverse the pinion so the grub screw is facing the battery, the front belt lightly rubs on the underside of the pinion.

I have a bunch of 64p gears coming, so I can experiment further.


In the TC6 thread, the guys are saying that they "extend" the flat spot on the rotor shaft with a dremel. Is this recommended/safe? I don't doubt the experience of those who have made this mod, but it seems like it would be difficult to make a uniform flat spot with a hand tool.


It can be done... but be careful and take your time.... I know PRS made pinions with different size necks... this may help?
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:02 PM   #1058
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Thanks for the info. With my current 48p gears, when I reverse the pinion so the grub screw is facing the battery, the front belt lightly rubs on the underside of the pinion.

I have a bunch of 64p gears coming, so I can experiment further.


In the TC6 thread, the guys are saying that they "extend" the flat spot on the rotor shaft with a dremel. Is this recommended/safe? I don't doubt the experience of those who have made this mod, but it seems like it would be difficult to make a uniform flat spot with a hand tool.
havent needed to do that before, ive run 5 different 13.5 motors before i got my hands on a murfdogg 13.5 none of them needed it.

anyways, this is the murfdogg thread, i can sat with out having to think about it, i have a 81tooth rw racing spur, a kawada 23 tooth pinion and the blue murfdogg motor and havent had any clearance issues at all

i do run my belts on the loose side to get the car to roll better so that could explain the pinion not rubbing.

ed

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 09-05-2011 at 02:03 PM. Reason: cant spell
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:47 AM   #1059
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MurfDogg Motors and Batteries are re-stocked at TQ.

Click Here to see the re-stocked items.


Also, we will have 2011 Annual Radio Post Grand Prix on Sept 25th.

It will be a great warmup race for 2011 IIC.



FYI, Thanks.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:23 AM   #1060
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Anybody have recommendations on endbell timing for blinky mode racing, 13.5 and 17.5 to get the most speed out of these motors? Timing in the series is allowed on the motor but not the esc. I'll be running 13.5 in a 22 and sc10 and the 17.5 in a 22 if that matters. Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:02 AM   #1061
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Anybody have recommendations on endbell timing for blinky mode racing, 13.5 and 17.5 to get the most speed out of these motors? Timing in the series is allowed on the motor but not the esc. I'll be running 13.5 in a 22 and sc10 and the 17.5 in a 22 if that matters. Thanks!
I find that running zero to +4 deg will give you the most from the motor's in blinky mode. More gear and less timing what seems to run best.

This is my experience running them on average sized indoor off-road tracks.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:33 PM   #1062
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Can being geared to short lead to overheating?

I geared my 17.5 blinky @ 4.2 final drive thinking it would be a safe place for the motor... For reference, most of the guys @ my local track are in the 3.8 ballpark I believe.

The motor was running too hot. Unfortunately I had to pack things in before the racing got underway, so I didn't have time to experiment further.

The track layout had a large right hand sweeper leading on to the back straight... and I basically had the car pinned wide open from a few feet into the sweeper, all the way to the braking zone for the first corner.

Im pretty new to electric racing, but was a long time gas on-road guy. When I would be undergeared at some of the bigger tracks, the engine would run substantially hotter. Jumping up a few teeth on the 2nd gear pinion would generally make for a much quicker car, and much cooler/happier motor.

Does this principle apply to electric motors? Would a lower fd have helped me in this situation? Or is the general rule of thumb, lower fd = hotter motor, always true?
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:12 PM   #1063
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how much timing on the motor are you running ?

Ed
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:14 AM   #1064
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how much timing on the motor are you running ?

Ed
Started with 4* on the endbell, per the instructions. Motor came off the track after 5 mins @ ~175F.

Went to 0* timing, motor came off the track @ 180F.

Blinky ESC settings...
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:16 AM   #1065
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Can being geared to short lead to overheating?
Yes. Brushless motors seem to have a 'sweet spot' where they operate effeciently. Outside that, over or under geared, they get reallly hot really fast.
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