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Old 02-15-2011, 05:33 PM   #916
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are all sensor boards (white) failing. i have one that i havent run yet. matt u have a pm
No all motors with white boards are not failing. There are many motors out there with white boards running strong. It was a small batch and Matt has improved his boards since.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:07 PM   #917
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Hey guys,
I just got back home from a long weekend of racing at a new track... 10 hour drive from my home. Stopped at a bunch of hobby shops all over California on the way home.

Sorry for the few days without checking on here. I answered all PM's and posts, and emails before leaving last Thursday.

I did alot of testing, and had some very odd conclusions. Now please be understanding, as I am not passing blame on anyone or anything.

We had a batch of motors arrive in late December. Within this batch waqs a total of 50 bad sensors. I made a public recall of all the sensors, and have replaced the sensors with a different design board.

I have thoroughly tested both the old (recalled sensors) and the new (redesigned) sensors. I cannot make any of them fail in any of my vehicles. I have received complete motors from several customers who claim the motors do not work. I have hooked them up to my equipment, and everything is looking normal. I have put these motors into my cars, and they run flawlessly. I go through, clean the motors, and ship them back to the customers, and they claim they are having the same issues still. I was completely baffled.

I pulled my hair out for a week and a half testing every possible scenario I could come up with, to no avail.

A customer then sent me a message saying they had installed a power capacitor into their receiver, and the cogging and sensor issues went away. This was very astonishing to me.

I use Tekin ESC's and Futaba servo's and receivers in all of my cars. I could not create the problems occurring.

So....

.... I called Randy Pike, of Tekin, and explained to him the problem I was having, and asked about the power cap solution, and he told me this:

Basically, certain manufacturers are building servos right now with no regard to the BEC output necessary in todays electric cars. Hall sensors, the sensors in all sensored brushless motors, are powered by the power distributed by the BEC in the receiver. Both Servo's and ESC's sensor capabilities depend on the BEC voltage coming to the ESC thru the receiver. These servos are overloading the BEC output of the radio systems, which is shutting down the ability of the system to read the sensors in the motor. Some of the brands of servo's that are known to cause this issue are SAVOX, ACE, SPEKTRUM, and KO PROPO. The addition of a power capacitor to the BEC port of the receiver can absorb energy created in these voltage spikes, and better maintain the voltage needs of the ESC and sensor assembly.

I verified this over the weekend in a team drivers car. He had an identical motor/timing/ESC timing/gearing setup to my car. Only difference was that he had a brand new SAVOX servo in his car. If he turned on his car, and was giving steering input whatsoever during the "arming period" of the Tekin ESC, he would overdraw the BEC, and the ESC would instantly show that the sensor board was bad. I tried this over and over to see if i could repeatedly cause the issue, and I could. I installed a power capacitor to the receiver, and gave no inputs during the arming period, and the car ran flawlessly.

I then put another motor in his car, took out the power capacitor, and turned the wheels during arming to see what the result would be. A motor that was brand new, and ran flawlessly in my car, cogged heavily right off the bat. I wanted to see what the result would be, and I drove the car for about 20 seconds at which time the motor stopped and literally burned up.

My conclusion:
Due to the servo manufacturers disregard to electric racers and their system's needs, I suggest all racers look into a Power capacitor setup available form various manufacturers including Spektrum and Novak.

To be honest, I do not know where to place blame in the situation. Perhaps my design is flawed, however we did not have any of these issues until the past 2 months.

Like I have stated before. I plan to make things right with all of my customers, as soon as possible. I am currently trying to come up with a sensor assembly that is not susceptible to the BEC issues, but the way all of our rules are written for ESC's and motors, there really isnt a way around the problem at hand.

I have witnessed Tekin, Trinity, Speed Passion, as well as some of my customers having sensor board issues. After countless hours of research and testing, this is my conclusion.

Other than this, I dont honestly have any answers.

Please contact me if you believe you are having issues with your MurfDogg motor. I want every MurfDogg Customer to be thoroughly satisfied with my products. My name and reputation depends on it.

I am going thru my PM's and emails next so, if you contacted me over the past 5 days, I will get back to hyou shortly.

Thanks,

Matt Murphy
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:42 PM   #918
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thanks, matt has replied to me figured he was out of town racing.shipping a new sensor board to me. will try running original board this weekend and see what happens and will let everyone know thanks again awesome customer support
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:21 PM   #919
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well, i dunno if it helps Matt

but i bought mine in novemeber and have and no probelms at all with mine

are the others that do have probelms running pts ? which type.

ed
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:05 PM   #920
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The only way a personal transponder can over draw the BEC is if you have a short or a frayed wire causing arcing on something. Some of my personals are nearing 9 years old, and have some pretty haggard looking wires, but still operate flawlessly.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:44 PM   #921
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Been racing all over Las Vegas the last couple days motor are performing perfect and everyone is super impressed!! There's going to be lots of Vegas boys ordering motors soon!! There going to be a lot faster next time I come to visit!!
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:44 AM   #922
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do you have a 21.5?
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:31 AM   #923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh short View Post
do you have a 21.5?
I believe Sean at TQ has the 21.5 MD motors in stock.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...yword=&pg_no=1

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Old 02-28-2011, 03:23 PM   #924
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ran my md 17.5 for first time this weekend. ran fastest lap (blinky mode) ran original timing board no problem. definitly fast motor. running on-road spec gt class with old TC3 associated. good times good power
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:27 AM   #925
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Is there anyone with info on running a Murfdogg 17.5 with a Novak Havoc Pro SC esc? I just started racing again after some time away from the hobby and I'm really interested in getting a Murfdogg 17.5 (my ballistic 17.5 isn't performing as I hoped) for my SC10 in an unboosted/no esc timing stock class. I may also run mod once in a while by just adding some timing to my esc. I have confirmation from Novak that a Havoc Pro can use any sensored motor, and I've read good things about Murfdogg 17.5s in unboosted racing. Can somebody give me an idea where to set the motor timing for the unboosted stock class, and what motor/esc timing would be good for running mod for a 17.5? Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:48 AM   #926
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Originally Posted by Sizzlechest View Post
Is there anyone with info on running a Murfdogg 17.5 with a Novak Havoc Pro SC esc? I just started racing again after some time away from the hobby and I'm really interested in getting a Murfdogg 17.5 (my ballistic 17.5 isn't performing as I hoped) for my SC10 in an unboosted/no esc timing stock class. I may also run mod once in a while by just adding some timing to my esc. I have confirmation from Novak that a Havoc Pro can use any sensored motor, and I've read good things about Murfdogg 17.5s in unboosted racing. Can somebody give me an idea where to set the motor timing for the unboosted stock class, and what motor/esc timing would be good for running mod for a 17.5? Thanks!
Run the timing on the motor at zero. Gear for the track. Best results I have found for speed and torque is leaving the motor at zero. Most the indoor tracks I run on I end up with a FDR around 7.5-7.8. If you are getting the motor directly from Murfdogg ask him for the TQ special.

I am not great with the paint but I have the right stickers on it.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:36 PM   #927
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Default Black Stealth 17.5

Looking for one of the Black Stealth Murfdogg 17.5 motors. Cant seem to find one anybody have any suggestions. Also gearing setup for running it is a Blitz with Tekin RS on a medium size outdoor clay track.
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:57 PM   #928
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I have VERY limited quantities of Stealth 17.5s in stock. PM for info.
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:27 PM   #929
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What is a Stealth 17.5? (do you have to tell me then kill me?)
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:58 AM   #930
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Stealth 17.5 stands for our special STEALTH EDITION motors. The only difference is a Black anodized can.
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