51LikesReedy!
11-21-2012, 11:54 AM
#376
Reedy Cyber Monday Sale
Reedy Cyber Monday Sale
04-03-2013, 05:31 PM
#377
Anyone had a chance to run the new 2S 7000 65C packs?
How did they perform for you? What class did you run it in?
How did they perform for you? What class did you run it in?
04-03-2013, 05:45 PM
#378
I was driving today and I pulled off after about 4 minutes because my car felt weird. I temped my motor and it was at 170. My motor usually runs at 155-160 max. It now feels like it has a lot of drag brake. Any ideas?
Reedy mach 2 4.5 orca vx. The whole setup has 20 packs at most through it.
New packs are great. Running in 17.5 and mod sedan.
Reedy mach 2 4.5 orca vx. The whole setup has 20 packs at most through it.
New packs are great. Running in 17.5 and mod sedan.
04-04-2013, 05:46 PM
#383
I was driving today and I pulled off after about 4 minutes because my car felt weird. I temped my motor and it was at 170. My motor usually runs at 155-160 max. It now feels like it has a lot of drag brake. Any ideas?
Reedy mach 2 4.5 orca vx. The whole setup has 20 packs at most through it.
New packs are great. Running in 17.5 and mod sedan.
Reedy mach 2 4.5 orca vx. The whole setup has 20 packs at most through it.
New packs are great. Running in 17.5 and mod sedan.
Right away after a run, with no time to let the fan cool everything down ?
Do you measure can temp, or inside temp ?
Just curious
04-04-2013, 08:11 PM
#384
I measure temp the second I pull off the track. My temp gun is set to hold at the max temp and I run it all around the can. My 17.5 mach 2 routinely comes off the track at 165+ and I've never had an issue with it. I now have a speedzone 5.0 in my car, lets see what reedy says. I needed to send in a flow anyway. I don't run a fan on my mod car, but I do on my stock car. Side piece racing of course!
06-24-2013, 08:39 PM
#386
Tech Master
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will a 17.5 mach 1 stator fit in a 10.5 mach 1 can?
08-21-2013, 08:12 PM
#388
I had my Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5T motor die out of the blue last night when I was doing some practice work before racing.
The motor had not be used that night before the incident, and had been working fine on previous race nights. I run a LRP fan/heatsink unit on it, so it barely gets hot (especially with it being winter down here in Australia at the moment!).
What happened was I put the car down on the track to check some changes I had done to the suspension and noticed that it was down on revs when taking off. Soon after that the car just stopped. There was no smoke, nor the burnt electrical smell.
The motor is connected to a Tekin RS v.2 ESC. The ESC told me that the motor type was incorrect. I swapped over the sensor cable, as one of my friends had an issue with a Mach 1 21.5T motor which wouldn't rev out because the sensor cable went bad. After swapping the cable the motor still wouldn't turn, and the ESC was telling me the motor type was still incorrect (Lights 1, 2, 6 and 7 are on).
The motor spins freely enough when I pull on the belts in the car, so it had not jammed up.
As a test to make sure the ESC had not gone bad, I reconnected my Mach 1 21.5T motor to the ESC. The motor worked correctly and there were no errors with the Mach 1 connected. I reconnected the Mach 2, but still coming up with incorrect motor type error.
So from what I can see, the Mach 2 motor has died. Is it worth for me to send the motor back to shop I purchased it from for a replacement? I have not opened the motor.
Thanks
The motor had not be used that night before the incident, and had been working fine on previous race nights. I run a LRP fan/heatsink unit on it, so it barely gets hot (especially with it being winter down here in Australia at the moment!).
What happened was I put the car down on the track to check some changes I had done to the suspension and noticed that it was down on revs when taking off. Soon after that the car just stopped. There was no smoke, nor the burnt electrical smell.
The motor is connected to a Tekin RS v.2 ESC. The ESC told me that the motor type was incorrect. I swapped over the sensor cable, as one of my friends had an issue with a Mach 1 21.5T motor which wouldn't rev out because the sensor cable went bad. After swapping the cable the motor still wouldn't turn, and the ESC was telling me the motor type was still incorrect (Lights 1, 2, 6 and 7 are on).
The motor spins freely enough when I pull on the belts in the car, so it had not jammed up.
As a test to make sure the ESC had not gone bad, I reconnected my Mach 1 21.5T motor to the ESC. The motor worked correctly and there were no errors with the Mach 1 connected. I reconnected the Mach 2, but still coming up with incorrect motor type error.
So from what I can see, the Mach 2 motor has died. Is it worth for me to send the motor back to shop I purchased it from for a replacement? I have not opened the motor.
Thanks
09-24-2013, 06:22 PM
#389
Hi, can someone explain the difference between the new Competition Lipo 7000 65C:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDCUE&P=0
the 'older' 5500 60C:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXASTV&P=0
and the Wolfpack 5500 60c:
http://www.reedypower.com/products/details/739/
Apart from the obvious numbers, will the cheaper packs be ok in 13.5 Blinky Touring Car racing. I only race at club level and the occasional interstte event, but I obviously want to be cometitive at that level.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDCUE&P=0
the 'older' 5500 60C:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXASTV&P=0
and the Wolfpack 5500 60c:
http://www.reedypower.com/products/details/739/
Apart from the obvious numbers, will the cheaper packs be ok in 13.5 Blinky Touring Car racing. I only race at club level and the occasional interstte event, but I obviously want to be cometitive at that level.
10-08-2013, 07:33 AM
#390
Edited - Found the info I was looking for!
Last edited by ~McSmooth~; 10-09-2013 at 06:40 AM.