Diggity Designs Custom R/C Components
12-13-2009, 03:12 PM
#1157
Brushless 1/12
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Last edited by mikecatts; 06-21-2011 at 06:34 PM.
12-16-2009, 10:00 AM
#1158
you should do a 200 mm conversion fo the xlr8 v2 , i find my 1900 mm bodies dont fit as good as they do n a stock tc3 .
12-20-2009, 03:24 PM
#1160
All right, I'm ready to try this again...
I ran my XLR8 conversion at our Regionals in Stock Rubber in March '08 and found the car to handle, accelerate, etc very well. The only problem (and it was a biggie) was that the outboard hinge pins on the rear arms walked their way out EVERY heat. Machined a couple Jaco spec tires/wheels into 2-parters from the inside like the pin was a dull parting tool. This was frustrating enough that I parked the car on the shelf since.
The front arms have holes for the 2-56 screws to capture the pins but the rears, oddly enough, do not. Nor do the spare set of arms I've got.
Over a year and a half on I want to get the car back on the track. My intent is to set it up as a Vintage TA car where we still support 4-cell formula locally. What do I need to do to keep the darn hinge pins from walking out? Worst-case I can drill and tap the rear uprights to use grub screws to anchor the hinge pins in place like we did on our RC500's "in the day" but to really do that properly I should put Helicoil inserts in there as well and I'm not "jazzed" about doing that either.
Am I the only guy who's struggled with this?
I ran my XLR8 conversion at our Regionals in Stock Rubber in March '08 and found the car to handle, accelerate, etc very well. The only problem (and it was a biggie) was that the outboard hinge pins on the rear arms walked their way out EVERY heat. Machined a couple Jaco spec tires/wheels into 2-parters from the inside like the pin was a dull parting tool. This was frustrating enough that I parked the car on the shelf since.
The front arms have holes for the 2-56 screws to capture the pins but the rears, oddly enough, do not. Nor do the spare set of arms I've got.
Over a year and a half on I want to get the car back on the track. My intent is to set it up as a Vintage TA car where we still support 4-cell formula locally. What do I need to do to keep the darn hinge pins from walking out? Worst-case I can drill and tap the rear uprights to use grub screws to anchor the hinge pins in place like we did on our RC500's "in the day" but to really do that properly I should put Helicoil inserts in there as well and I'm not "jazzed" about doing that either.
Am I the only guy who's struggled with this?
12-20-2009, 07:44 PM
#1162
Tech Elite
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eazy fix - remove them - then add one maybe two drops of thin CA run the length of the pins , try after first drop drys . may need second drop - let them dry complete . they are good and tight , you won't need set screws . I did this when I first put the car together . Haven't had one move / come out yet ! I think it is a good car for VTA racing !
If you need Damon you need to email him . . . .
Good Luck !
If you need Damon you need to email him . . . .
Good Luck !
All right, I'm ready to try this again...
I ran my XLR8 conversion at our Regionals in Stock Rubber in March '08 and found the car to handle, accelerate, etc very well. The only problem (and it was a biggie) was that the outboard hinge pins on the rear arms walked their way out EVERY heat. Machined a couple Jaco spec tires/wheels into 2-parters from the inside like the pin was a dull parting tool. This was frustrating enough that I parked the car on the shelf since.
The front arms have holes for the 2-56 screws to capture the pins but the rears, oddly enough, do not. Nor do the spare set of arms I've got.
Over a year and a half on I want to get the car back on the track. My intent is to set it up as a Vintage TA car where we still support 4-cell formula locally. What do I need to do to keep the darn hinge pins from walking out? Worst-case I can drill and tap the rear uprights to use grub screws to anchor the hinge pins in place like we did on our RC500's "in the day" but to really do that properly I should put Helicoil inserts in there as well and I'm not "jazzed" about doing that either.
Am I the only guy who's struggled with this?
I ran my XLR8 conversion at our Regionals in Stock Rubber in March '08 and found the car to handle, accelerate, etc very well. The only problem (and it was a biggie) was that the outboard hinge pins on the rear arms walked their way out EVERY heat. Machined a couple Jaco spec tires/wheels into 2-parters from the inside like the pin was a dull parting tool. This was frustrating enough that I parked the car on the shelf since.
The front arms have holes for the 2-56 screws to capture the pins but the rears, oddly enough, do not. Nor do the spare set of arms I've got.
Over a year and a half on I want to get the car back on the track. My intent is to set it up as a Vintage TA car where we still support 4-cell formula locally. What do I need to do to keep the darn hinge pins from walking out? Worst-case I can drill and tap the rear uprights to use grub screws to anchor the hinge pins in place like we did on our RC500's "in the day" but to really do that properly I should put Helicoil inserts in there as well and I'm not "jazzed" about doing that either.
Am I the only guy who's struggled with this?
12-20-2009, 07:57 PM
#1163
eazy fix - remove them - then add one maybe two drops of thin CA run the length of the pins , try after first drop drys . may need second drop - let them dry complete . they are good and tight , you won't need set screws . I did this when I first put the car together . Haven't had one move / come out yet ! I think it is a good car for VTA racing !
Still seems odd that they'd drill and tap the front arms (front and back!! Couldn't make a near "blind" hole like the TC5, etc) for the capture screws but not the rears. Ah well. Kind of a weird oversight for such an otherwise well-executed conversion. I tell people it's the car Xray would build if Xray were building shafties.
Speaking of shafties, and to your point re: VTA, I think shaft drive and front spool are THE ticket for such a power-limited class. These put the power STRAIGHT down to the track. No muss, no fuss, no backlash...just GO!!
01-11-2010, 10:10 AM
#1165
i have a xlr8 v2 nib for sale 150 bones , pm me
03-01-2010, 05:54 AM
#1166
Just got my shipment of CF parts for my GV2. These parts look great and have super fit and finish!! Excellent job Diggity Designs!! I can't wait to get to the track for testing.
03-01-2010, 05:59 AM
#1167
Take a minute or 2 to go to this link and vote for Diggity Designs to be a part of NASCAR
http://www.sponsafier.com/share/105819
http://www.sponsafier.com/share/105819
03-08-2010, 02:58 PM
#1168
First race with the new CF parts went well. The 4mm rear shock tower that is slightly taller is great on the GV2. I noticed a quicker reacting car in the corners and it had a more direct jumping feel. I would sudgest any GV2 owner look into these quality upgrades!
03-13-2010, 03:01 PM
#1169
Tech Rookie
Hey Diggity,
Do you still have this kit/upgrade in stock XLR8-V1?
Have sent three emails and had no response. maybe somethings not getting through, so thought I'd try you here.
Also would be very interested in a Rally kit 200mm. Originally got in for the T/A racing and am pretty new to it but found others talking about this Rally kit TA used to make. Sounds like even more RC fun.
thanks
Do you still have this kit/upgrade in stock XLR8-V1?
Have sent three emails and had no response. maybe somethings not getting through, so thought I'd try you here.
Also would be very interested in a Rally kit 200mm. Originally got in for the T/A racing and am pretty new to it but found others talking about this Rally kit TA used to make. Sounds like even more RC fun.
thanks
