04-15-2013, 02:52 PM
Join Date: Sep 2005
Originally Posted by Justin33
I'm running on medium-medium high grip carpet
The first thing I would do is make sure your steering rack is not binding or if it has significant play or slop, the major issue we had with the XLR8 kits was the steering rack. Its been awhile but we used to mount a TC3 steering rack in with the bearings and that was a ton better, I think there is some minor modifications to get it to fit but I cant remember exactly, just look at it and you will figure it out.
Im also assuming that you are running rubber tire?
We ran 4 or 6° caster blocks, we would run the TC4 steering blocks and use the outer Ackermann holes. We also used the 2° TC4 rear hub carriers (you would need to drill a small hole in the bottom for a capture set screw to fit in to hold your hinge pin in since the TC4 versions don't have those like the TC3 does. Mount the arms in reverse (or flipped) and run the shocks on the inside of the shock tower in the rear.
I would run a total of 3° rear toe, the best setup would be 0° hub carriers and run the 3° tow block. Just try to get the toe at the toe-block.
For the shocks I would keep the 60/40 with the #2 pistons. I would change to yellow or purple front springs and keep the silvers in the back (maybe use blue).
You will want to run front and rear sway bar as well. We sell the .076 sway bars on the site still, you will need to have the TC3 sway bar hardware to get them to work. (you could probably get away with just running the front bar but you will need to test)
droop is also a big factor. with a hudy droop gauge I would do 4.8-4.6 in the front and 4.6-4.4 in the rear.
1.5° camber in the front and 2° camber in the rear.
front camber link in the highest inner hole on the tower, rear camber link in the lowest inner hole on the tower and use the highest point on the outer nub carrier.
I would run a 5.2mm-5.5mm ride height
I would run a fairly tight diff in the front or even a solid axle and run a medium tight diff in the rear.
.5° toe out in the front
this should get you heading in the right direction.
I would suggest taking a look at our new conversion for future racing. It is well improved over our older conversion kits for lipo and brushless rubber tire racing.
Let me know if you have any othere Q's and let me know how it goes at the track.
www.rcamerica.com - www.teamxray.com - www.powerpushbatteries.com - www.fantomracing.com - www.kimbrough-products.com - www.diggitydesigns.com
Last edited by Diggity; 04-15-2013 at 07:31 PM.