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Old 09-22-2009, 03:17 PM   #1141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimXLB View Post
Damon:

Hi,

Will you be doing any parts for the new RT5?????


Thanks
Hey Tim,

I have more of the TC5 lipo braces in if you still need them, let me know..

Yeah on the RT5, already made some 4mm shock towers and a 2.5mm battery strap. Here are some pics:



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Old 09-23-2009, 07:37 AM   #1142
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Very interested in steering blocks in aluminum?
for the tc5
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Last edited by Warren Weaver; 09-30-2009 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:30 PM   #1143
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has any one got the new kit
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:41 PM   #1144
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Is Diggity Designs interested in making the following items:

- Academy GV2 / GV2T chassis to convert to a Short Course Truck
- Academy GV2 / GV2T aluminum steering arm
- Academy SBV2 chassis, upper deck, and center driveshaft to make a 4wd short course truck

Also, for the combo pack of GV2 graphite parts, what thickness are the towers, 3mm or 4mm?
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:07 PM   #1145
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Default XLR8 Frustration

So I just put toghether my XLR8 and took it to my local track (indoor carpet) with in 10 feet of driving the car to just straighten out the steering I tapped the wall and broke the Losi spindle carrier that you guys recomend for this kit (LOSA9762). I went in bought a new kit and with in what amounted to about 2 laps broke 3 more. Now I am not a great driver, I am fairly new to RC but I know this shouldn't happen when I tap the wall. None of the crashes were bad or anything that I don't see experianced drivers doing at my track. Have you had this problem before? What do you recomend I do. At this point I am ready to put the car on shelf or ebay it. Let me know if you have any suggestions.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:27 PM   #1146
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Cool

~ This ones is easy , I used the losi's , and did'nt break any but I still ordered Alu. front and rear knuckles / uprights they looked cool and were cheap , There working great . They were 17 bucks each shipped . I think it took only 8 days .. I'll try to posts some pictures .

- go to - e-bay

- Aluminum Front Steering Knuckle Team Associated TC4 - 380166974281

- And if you want the rears here you go !

- Aluminum Rear Knuckle Hub for Team Associated TC4 - 380166036376

- It's well worth it ! - Good Luck !



`
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:19 AM   #1147
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Cool My XLR8

` here ya go ! tryed to resize it but not so good ......

`
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:42 PM   #1148
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Default steering blocks

first off i have't read all 77 pages here but i have the v1 kit for tc3 and 4 and my steering block binds badly..burntup several servos so far and tryed a bunch or different thing....they alll worked for about 5 laps then the same thing, turn the control wheel and car goes stright into the wall....the latest thing i tryed was plastic washers on top and bottom of the block.....no steering after a few laps as it binds again....is there a quick fix for this or what> love the kit hate the steering block...ron
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:47 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron1950 View Post
first off i have't read all 77 pages here but i have the v1 kit for tc3 and 4 and my steering block binds badly..burntup several servos so far and tryed a bunch or different thing....they alll worked for about 5 laps then the same thing, turn the control wheel and car goes stright into the wall....the latest thing i tryed was plastic washers on top and bottom of the block.....no steering after a few laps as it binds again....is there a quick fix for this or what> love the kit hate the steering block...ron
Hey Ron,

I know we already talked via email, but I am going to list some info for anyone else who might end up with this issue.

When you first assemble your kit and for the first couple runs add a little lube on the steering rack bushings. This will help them break in, after a couple runs you should be good to go. We have also used powdered graphite to keep the rack nice and smooth, its a dry lube.

Make sure you dont overtighten the two nuts that hold the rack on, we usually tighten them till it binds and then loosen them untill the rack is nice and free and slides well from side to side without binding.

Some guys like to use brass washers on the top, some have used the small red oil washers that come from inside of a motor. These will allow the rack to slide a little more free.

Remember to always use a "servo saver" on your servo!! This will make sure you do not hurt the servo incase of malfunction or hard hit.

Some guys have mounted a TC3 rack using their rack posts and bearings, you will need to modify the rack a bit. I cannot remember exactly what the mod is but I will look into it and post it on here later.

Thanks, Damon
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:48 PM   #1150
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Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
Very interested in steering blocks in aluminum?
for the tc5

anything?
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:38 PM   #1151
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Diggity......I have emailed you 2 times and have received no reply yet...........
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Old 11-20-2009, 08:42 PM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hgbtrout View Post
So I just put toghether my XLR8 and took it to my local track (indoor carpet) with in 10 feet of driving the car to just straighten out the steering I tapped the wall and broke the Losi spindle carrier that you guys recomend for this kit (LOSA9762). I went in bought a new kit and with in what amounted to about 2 laps broke 3 more. Now I am not a great driver, I am fairly new to RC but I know this shouldn't happen when I tap the wall. None of the crashes were bad or anything that I don't see experianced drivers doing at my track. Have you had this problem before? What do you recomend I do. At this point I am ready to put the car on shelf or ebay it. Let me know if you have any suggestions.
Is yours an XLR8 V2? If you do want to sell it let me know
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:03 PM   #1153
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i finally got mine assembled xlr8 v2 . i cant belive how noisy it is , i will try to re shim the diffs but i am not sure i like it ,
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:23 AM   #1154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Weaver View Post
anything?
Sorry, no steering blocks for the TC5...
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:28 AM   #1155
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Originally Posted by turbomeyers View Post
i finally got mine assembled xlr8 v2 . i cant belive how noisy it is , i will try to re shim the diffs but i am not sure i like it ,
It shouldnt be that noisy? I would definately check the diff shimming and diff gear mesh (you dont want them too tight or too lose, right in between sort of like when you set your gear mesh).. Make sure you dont have any locked bearings etc.. is the driveline free when you spin it?.

Of course the V2 is a shaft car and its a little noisier than a belt car but it shouldnt be "loud"? Let me know what you come up with...
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