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Old 06-14-2007, 04:38 PM   #676
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Originally Posted by rcracingkid View Post
Steve, you most likely have the longer rear pods on your car, if you put "normal" wheelbase pods on it will be like that. I prefer the shorter big time.
I'll have to try the shorter car out soon. If I have time to set it up. I will try it this weekend. My car is dailed for Frederick. I'm buying Paul's car. So I will have two cars. His car has the wider chassis black chassis.
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Old 06-14-2007, 06:30 PM   #677
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There's different wheelbase pod plates!?!? I did not know that.

Yes and no. I'd say that 95% of the kits that have been sold with the shorter or standard length motor pod plates. A couple of customers have requested the ones that are currently the 1/10 kit stock pod plates. These are 3/16" longer and will fit the exact bolt pattern as the shorter ones. As a rule, the kit comes with the short set and that's what the car is designed around. If anybody is interested in the longer ones, they can contact me and I can point them in the right direction.

-E
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:06 PM   #678
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When I bought my kit 10 months ago. Thin black chassis. The long pod plates came with it. I've put the silver chassis on the car since. I'm buying Paul Buohl's and he has the new black chassis and the shorter pod plates. I will have to see if the cars handles any different. I will try to have his car ready for this weekend. I just have to get some new front springs. Other than that I tuned the car up.
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Old 06-14-2007, 07:17 PM   #679
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Yep
you the ,manthanks
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:02 PM   #680
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Yes and no. I'd say that 95% of the kits that have been sold with the shorter or standard length motor pod plates. A couple of customers have requested the ones that are currently the 1/10 kit stock pod plates. These are 3/16" longer and will fit the exact bolt pattern as the shorter ones. As a rule, the kit comes with the short set and that's what the car is designed around. If anybody is interested in the longer ones, they can contact me and I can point them in the right direction.

-E
And I thought that I was the only one who played with this on the cars. First did it on an 1/8 gas 2wd car in the early 80's. For 1/12, I always carry a set of lengthened motor pods. A few racers questioned how I got the gearing into the car, some thought the ofset Parma ride height adjusters, which I also have.

After some testing, I agree with E that the standard plate works well on the silver car, but it's a toss up on the black car.

My 2 cents!!
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Old 06-14-2007, 11:31 PM   #681
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I always did wheelbase adjustments at the front end switching between off-set and in-line axles. Never even knew there were different length pod plates. Closest to that I remember from back in the day was the off-set ride height adjusters that changed wheelbase as well.
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:14 AM   #682
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I always did wheelbase adjustments at the front end switching between off-set and in-line axles.
Oh...I'm pretty sure changing between offset and inline front axles has a LOT more affect than "merely" changing wheelbase...

If you're going to alter wheelbase you really need to do it by (in order of cost/complexity) playing with the offset rear height adjusters like Mark spoke of, the longer pod plates, or re-drilling and re-mounting the front suspension to the chassis.
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:18 AM   #683
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Oh...I'm pretty sure changing between offset and inline front axles has a LOT more affect than "merely" changing wheelbase...

If you're going to alter wheelbase you really need to do it by (in order of cost/complexity) playing with the offset rear height adjusters like Mark spoke of, the longer pod plates, or re-drilling and re-mounting the front suspension to the chassis.

Well, said. I just wouldn't recomend redrilling the front end though, you'll have a tough time getting it square.

-E
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:30 AM   #684
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I just wouldn't recomend redrilling the front end though, you'll have a tough time getting it square.
Agreed...it would be FAR and away the most difficult. Were I going to do it I'd use my buddy's Sherline mill with the digital readout (readout not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but makes it a wee bit easier...). Using the hold-downs I'd assure square and use the mill to measure off. This certainly isn't a job where one could hope to measure it up with even a divider and drill with a drill press and get an acceptable result. Unless one was VERY good at this sort of thing one may as well measure it off with one's Playschool ruler, mark it off with a crayon and have at it with one's Ryobi cordless drill.
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:14 AM   #685
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I agree with the drilling process. I even have the Sherline Mill and could do this, but the rear offset ride height adjusters give 1/2 change going to the extended pod. Simple press in/out and your done.

I only re-drill the front end after you have milled the front blocks down and then put a chassis stiffner in to strengthen a broken Silver chassis!!!

Hey Scottrick - I think I still owe you some motor springs. What did you want, and I'll get them sent off.
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:15 AM   #686
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I'm going to have to try my other Mx2 with the shorter pod plates. I've always ran the my car with the longer ones. Like to see the difference. I will have to try it tomorrow.
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:48 PM   #687
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Oh...I'm pretty sure changing between offset and inline front axles has a LOT more affect than "merely" changing wheelbase...
Oh yeah for sure it does. I always used to run the in-line axles because it seemed to have less scrub on the front tires then trailing axles. When pan cars were still popular out here in-line axles were all the rage. When I got back into pan cars last year it seemed like they weren't even made anymore...well I found out you can still get them but it took some looking and seems no one is really using them anyway. Back then too we had less options to change wheelbase. Most cars that could change wheelbase moved the whole front end.
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:10 PM   #688
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Oh yeah for sure it does. I always used to run the in-line axles because it seemed to have less scrub on the front tires then trailing axles. When pan cars were still popular out here in-line axles were all the rage. When I got back into pan cars last year it seemed like they weren't even made anymore...well I found out you can still get them but it took some looking and seems no one is really using them anyway. Back then too we had less options to change wheelbase. Most cars that could change wheelbase moved the whole front end.
The inline axles are still the axle of choice for oval cars. Pretty easy to locate, I've got a bunch in stock if you are interested.

-E
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:48 PM   #689
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I'm still debating that in my head. So why is it now road course cars have settled on trailing axles or so it seems. What benefits does trailing have over in-line?
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:36 AM   #690
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Mx2 was awesome this weekend. I had it on rails. I keep TQ for 2 rounds. Ended up qualifying 2nd. 3rd round of qualfying was 3 of us switching the lead back and forth for 8 minutes.
Ended up finishing 3rd in the main. I got the bump past in the main when I was leading and I hit the wall and had to be marshaled. It still was a great race.
This weekend is our Sedan Challenge. It looks like we will have around 20, 1/12th scales. Cait wait.
Are you coming Eric?
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