R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road > Team and Company Discussions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-07-2007, 02:02 PM   #616
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Getting the Mx2 out for some stock action at our indoor asphalt track this weekend. Can't wait. It's been about 6 weeks since I've ran it. It's been calling my name.
On May 26th I'm going to Jackson, NJ to run some practice with the Mx2 with 19T to prepare for the eXpress On Road Paved Champanships. Can't wait to show them what the Darkside car is made of. 2 weeks after that I will be running the car at the Sedan Challenge in Frederick, Md. I TQ'ed and won last year. Now I'm driving a better car.
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 03:25 PM   #617
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

Good luck with those races. I have one this weekend too...I've been working hard on the car these past 2 weeks trying to fix the handling problem at the rear of the car and have put a ton of fine detail work into adjusting the car and getting it setup. Hopefully it will perform well this weekend as it did in it's first few races. My 94145 servo was having a problem with loose gears so I pulled that out and dropped in a JR3025 which is a little bit slower but smaller and lighter so that will help reduce the front tire loading. It also gave me room to run the servo wires behind the servo on the chassis instead of over the servo. Next I noticed some binding in the rear pod...it wouldn't droop under it's own weight so I tore that all apart. The rear links had a tad of bind in them that I fixed but the problem turned out to be in the shock so I rebuilt it with lighter oil...but the problem still persisted. Further investigation showed it was the rod ends on the shock. I had been using the cotton method to take out the play in the rod ends but on one of them I used too much and it was causing a bind that was effecting the whole pod. The rod ends were replaced and the new ones are tight enough to not need cotton. Lastly I noticed one of my motor wires felt like it was going to break off so I re-wired the ESC. This time I ran the motor wires along the left side trailing link into the lower part of the rear pod where they turned up to solder on to the motor tabs. With the wires this way the rear pod seems to move very freely. I've got a new body mounted and cut on it now...just waiting for painting and she's all set.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 03:45 PM   #618
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

Oh...and I rasied the shock mount position on the rear pod to give the shock a bit more angle.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 06:22 PM   #619
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Colorado, Above The Rest
Posts: 992
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Good luck with those races. I have one this weekend too...I've been working hard on the car these past 2 weeks trying to fix the handling problem at the rear of the car and have put a ton of fine detail work into adjusting the car and getting it setup. Hopefully it will perform well this weekend as it did in it's first few races. My 94145 servo was having a problem with loose gears so I pulled that out and dropped in a JR3025 which is a little bit slower but smaller and lighter so that will help reduce the front tire loading. It also gave me room to run the servo wires behind the servo on the chassis instead of over the servo. Next I noticed some binding in the rear pod...it wouldn't droop under it's own weight so I tore that all apart. The rear links had a tad of bind in them that I fixed but the problem turned out to be in the shock so I rebuilt it with lighter oil...but the problem still persisted. Further investigation showed it was the rod ends on the shock. I had been using the cotton method to take out the play in the rod ends but on one of them I used too much and it was causing a bind that was effecting the whole pod. The rod ends were replaced and the new ones are tight enough to not need cotton. Lastly I noticed one of my motor wires felt like it was going to break off so I re-wired the ESC. This time I ran the motor wires along the left side trailing link into the lower part of the rear pod where they turned up to solder on to the motor tabs. With the wires this way the rear pod seems to move very freely. I've got a new body mounted and cut on it now...just waiting for painting and she's all set.
An old trick for the side links is to put some very small O-rings between the clamp part of the rod end. Thread the screw through the plastic clamp sandwiching the o-ring and tighten down slightly. This provides a smooth but tight feel on the links. Any Mx2 drivers wanting some of these o-rings, shoot me an e-mail to [email protected] with your address and I'll get them out to you.

-E
__________________
Team BSR
Team Power Push
Protoform Race Bodies
KSKT Racing - #1 in SK Racing Chassis
Darkside Motorsports - "WE ARE WHAT'S NEXT." - www.darksidems.com
THE DARKSIDE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 06:28 PM   #620
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

That's a good idea...I have some really small o-rings from my darts I could use for that. We use them to lock the shaft on to the barrel.

I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 06:58 PM   #621
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,673
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
That's a good idea...I have some really small o-rings from my darts I could use for that. We use them to lock the shaft on to the barrel.

I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
I've used them on my Mx2 and it worked Magic!! I would get some from Eric as I have the darts as well, and they are larger.

Let us know how you do!!

PS.......Updated set up sheet should be to E in the next two weeks. We talked about having the download from the Darkside site.
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 07:03 PM   #622
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

Well that all depends on which sized o-rings you use on your darts. There are 3 sizes commonly used. The small ones won't even fit over a 2-56 screw without some pressure and to put on the dart requires a piece which stretches the o-ring over the threads.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2007, 07:06 PM   #623
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,673
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Well that all depends on which sized o-rings you use on your darts. There are 3 sizes commonly used. The small ones won't even fit over a 2-56 screw without some pressure and to put on the dart requires a piece which stretches the o-ring over the threads.
OK I stand corrected mine are more for 4/40 sized screws. The one's I got from E were tight on the link screws.
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2007, 12:04 PM   #624
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: maryland
Posts: 3,972
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

ERIC - ygm


man your 12 scale rocks bro,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
__________________
comming soon MOTORHEAD RC MOTORSPORTS...........
BILL.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2007, 12:41 PM   #625
Tech Fanatic
 
trailranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 946
Default Football spacers

For the the life of me loctite never works so I came up with another plan

I am using 4-40 THIN nuts and thin motor shims to space the links, and football.

Just insert the 4-40 screw into the chassis and place the right thickness of shim then the thin nut onto the screw. Tighten down and Viola... Just figner thead the 1/4" ball tight and snap on the link.

For the Football 1/4" ball, I am usinging the free running type not the 4-40 tapped ball. The Football hold down holes were dethreaded to allow it to slide onto the chassis screws that were made inmoveable by the thin nuts. Place football onto chassis screws and pod screw. Use a locking small 4-40 nut ontop of all three chassis screws that go through football.

For my Links I am using DurBro 4-40 Captured links, very similar to the kit's links except for the hex shaft which is great for using a wrench to hold the link still while threading in the turnbuckles. the links also come with some nice (thick) brass piviot spacers and some nice freerunning brass 1/4" balls.
trailranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2007, 02:54 PM   #626
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

That's very like how the CRC car mounts it's football...it uses thin 4-40 nuts like you describe on the links. I'd prefer sticking with the stock steel ball though for ease of maintenance. Brass and aluminum balls pit out fairly quickly in certain conditions and need a lot of maintenance to keep running smoothly. I was constantly having to repolish the pivot balls on my EV10 back in the day. the new steel ones that Darkside and CRC are using are so much smoother and maintenance free...it's a big relief.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2007, 06:39 AM   #627
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Had the Mx2 out for the 1st time in about 7 weeks for some practice at our indoor asphalt track warming up for a club race this weekend. I forgot how awesome this car is. The car is "DAILED". It responded to every change I made to it and got better. Can't wait till tomorrow.
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2007, 11:33 AM   #628
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,179
Default

Mine will be raced this sunday...I look foward to seeing what the changes I made will do. I really think the binding on the shock ball cups was my handling problem. If so I should stand a good chance this weekend
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2007, 12:36 PM   #629
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: maryland
Posts: 3,972
Trader Rating: 6 (88%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
Had the Mx2 out for the 1st time in about 7 weeks for some practice at our indoor asphalt track warming up for a club race this weekend. I forgot how awesome this car is. The car is "DAILED". It responded to every change I made to it and got better. Can't wait till tomorrow.
steve looking forward running 12 scale with you guys this weekend

your right this will be the first time i race on asphalt and my practices
were good so i hope it pays off

see you on saterday
__________________
comming soon MOTORHEAD RC MOTORSPORTS...........
BILL.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2007, 02:05 PM   #630
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Mine will be raced this sunday...I look foward to seeing what the changes I made will do. I really think the binding on the shock ball cups was my handling problem. If so I should stand a good chance this weekend
Good luck. Show them what the Darkside is all about.
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mafia Motorsports "Carbon Fiber" Pitboard and Motor stand Steve Bahnatka R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 10 10-15-2007 06:03 PM
The "DarkSide" enters nitro tourers! TomB Australian Racing 26 12-24-2006 06:06 PM
"""NEW""" Collari .21 3 port buggy motor lc21-b3 goneRVing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 12-20-2006 05:25 PM
""" XRAY FK05 """ excellent cond/super clean/stock evostyle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-29-2006 09:04 PM
5 BRAND NEW - 3700 MAH EXPRESS MOTORSPORTS "TEAM" PACKS SweetRacing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 17 05-08-2006 03:12 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:40 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net