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Old 01-14-2007, 08:00 PM   #346
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Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Looks like a nice assembly job, though I think that you have the dampener tubes on backwards. The screws that came silver are steel ones. There are several locations on the car where I just thought that aluminum wasn't a good idea. Good luck with the car and be sure to post your results and any questions you might have.

-E
Oh yeah, the tubes are on backwards. The inny-out squishy thingy goes at the top. I like the way the wires run under the brace....
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:42 AM   #347
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Sharp eyes! Yes the tubes are on backwards though I doubt that will effect the handling much. With the ESC in front of the link I was able to run the wires under the damper bar and still have very free pod movement. That's one thing that always bugged me about my Carpet Knife was that to run the wires on the side of the car they always seemed to bind on something. On my CK I ran the wires up the center shock and over to the motor and that seemed to work best for me. But with my Mx2 I have a lot more room and choices for the wiring.

Well I got to run my car today and I was very impressed! Only got 2 runs on it before it started to rain First run went very well with a slight oversteer some of which I compensated for by dialing down the dual rate. I'm sure I can fine tune it even better without making major changes to the car. Second run didn't go so well...Unfortunately I forgot to do my idiot check and did not notice a few things amiss with the car. One of my trailing links had lost a screw, the other was very loose, and the tires needed cleaning. In the end I had a very loose car with glazed over tires. Serves me right for not doing my idiot check...but in my defense I am the race director and was quite busy organizing the event. I ran purple fronts and pink rears with the stock front springs, stock center spring, and white roll springs in the outer most holes. I really like the multiple mounting points for the roll springs. It's been my observation that link cars seem to me to have a lot more roll in them then t-bar cars. Running it this way the edges of the chassis did not touch down in the slightest. My CRC was having an issue with that. Next race I think I'll try moving the roll springs one hole in to increase rear grip just a tad and go to 1 degree toe in at the front instead of 0 toe. Still...I was very impressed with how well the car handled straight out of the box with pretty much a stock setup.

Now I need to figure out how to go to a connector setup. I prefer hardwiring myself but I'm so busy during the race I just don't have time to hardwire if my iron goes finicky. Problem is I'm using a Novak discharge tray and I am having a hard time getting packs to fit nicely with wires soldered to the cells instead of battery bars.
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:39 AM   #348
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I forgot to mention...I lost 2 of the washers that go under the trailing links. Are these a standard washer or something special? I've been running metric cars for so long that I don't recognize the standard sized stuff all that well anymore. If so what size?
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:52 PM   #349
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I forgot to mention...I lost 2 of the washers that go under the trailing links. Are these a standard washer or something special? I've been running metric cars for so long that I don't recognize the standard sized stuff all that well anymore. If so what size?

Yes thay are a standard flat washer that I get from mcmaster.com, part # 90945A711, give or take about .33" thick. You can use almost anything that spaces up the pivot balls about 1/16". If you swap them out with something else, be certain that all four are spaced the same amount. Heck, I can even send you out some if you want. Just let me know

-E
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:55 PM   #350
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eric can you call me when you can thanks
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:41 PM   #351
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Cool...I'll look around here first I'm sure I can scrape something up.

Had another question...the driver's side (US driver's side) trailing link...where it mounts to the rear pod if I have the 2-56 tension screw facing toward the outside of the car it binds against the driver's side rear bulkhead. Right now I have it faced toward the centerline of the car and it's fine but I'm not real fond of facing it this way. Is this normal? I'm going to have to make sure I loctite those pivot balls in place now that I know those are steel screws there...didn't want to do that with aluminum screws.
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:07 PM   #352
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Cool...I'll look around here first I'm sure I can scrape something up.

Had another question...the driver's side (US driver's side) trailing link...where it mounts to the rear pod if I have the 2-56 tension screw facing toward the outside of the car it binds against the driver's side rear bulkhead. Right now I have it faced toward the centerline of the car and it's fine but I'm not real fond of facing it this way. Is this normal? I'm going to have to make sure I loctite those pivot balls in place now that I know those are steel screws there...didn't want to do that with aluminum screws.
I had to loctite all of mine. I have the link rear screws facing in and the chassis ones facing out.
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Old 01-15-2007, 03:50 PM   #353
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I have never had to locktite the screws on my car, but i make them real tight when building it. It dosnt matter which way the screw in the cup faces, they will not need to be adjusted much at all, only if you feel play start to develop. Just place them where nothing will get bound up.

I do suggest that you turn the turnbulkes around to have the bigger ballcup sit above the notch in the chassis. This way it will not hit anything if you start to play with less spacing under the links. I run mine at .040 off the chassis, so the big cup would hit and cause the suspension to bind up.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:14 PM   #354
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Yeah...usually I don't have a problem with screws getting loose...I always get good carbide allen wrenches so I can tighten them well...but once in awhile they still get loose.

I'll keep in mind turning around the links. For now I just basically built the car as per instructions for the most part.
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:34 PM   #355
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Gen-X Front End Anyone?

We have a kit on order with our LHS. We are wondering if anyone has tried the new CRC Gen-X frontend on this car?

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Old 01-16-2007, 04:49 AM   #356
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From all the reading I've done...the new GenX front end is slightly more narrow then the AE front end (dunno why...they should have stuck with the standard) Anyway I would stick with the AE front end to start with as the car has more bias that way anyway and switch to the CRC later if you need more steering.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:08 PM   #357
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Here are a few pics of the car...
Attached Thumbnails
DARKSIDE MOTORSPORTS - "We Are What's Next"-dsc09154.jpg   DARKSIDE MOTORSPORTS - "We Are What's Next"-dsc09160.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:47 PM   #358
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We have a kit on order with our LHS. We are wondering if anyone has tried the new CRC Gen-X frontend on this car?

djb
Should be there today or tomorrow.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:49 PM   #359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
From all the reading I've done...the new GenX front end is slightly more narrow then the AE front end (dunno why...they should have stuck with the standard) Anyway I would stick with the AE front end to start with as the car has more bias that way anyway and switch to the CRC later if you need more steering.
From what CRC told me, the width issue shouldn't be a problem on this or any other chassis designed for the Associated front end. I finally got a hold of one of the Gen-X front ends intend to build it up and see for myself. I must say though that it is a good piece of engineering.

-E
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:53 PM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Cool...I'll look around here first I'm sure I can scrape something up.

Had another question...the driver's side (US driver's side) trailing link...where it mounts to the rear pod if I have the 2-56 tension screw facing toward the outside of the car it binds against the driver's side rear bulkhead. Right now I have it faced toward the centerline of the car and it's fine but I'm not real fond of facing it this way. Is this normal? I'm going to have to make sure I loctite those pivot balls in place now that I know those are steel screws there...didn't want to do that with aluminum screws.
Yes, you need to turn only that link end around such that the screw head end is facing the motor. I think that the instructions mention that. The slightly more ghetto approach would be to dremel a small amount off of the motor pod plate in that area. Just a lot of stuff that had to happen in a very small amount of real estate. That's actually what I did myself

-E
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