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Old 03-19-2006, 05:19 PM   #31
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Is there any more info available re the Tekin 1/10th BL system? i love running the Tekin brushed speedies, but continuous club running with brushed motors is getting old. Looking to go back to BL. Used to run a hacker / Schultze setup but it is now not legal for most of our racing.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:17 AM   #32
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Last I heard it was in company testing and not yet released to team drivers. Once it gets released to team drivers, as long as we don't find serious faults, I would say it wouldn't be long after that, but that is guess work.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:19 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
hey Tekin guys.. some quick questions just for clarification.

on the Tekin tray:

1a. the tray will equalize my pack at 0.7v per cell as soon as all the lights go out right?
1b. what if the lights on 1 or 2 cells turn off first? does this mean it'll be less than 0.7v while the others are discharging down to 0.7v?

2a. if i leave it on there longer than "x" amount of mins.. it'll eventually drop to 0.5v per cell correct?
2b. it will stay at 0.5v for as long as i leave the battery on the tray?

thanks for all the help!
hey guys.. got my trays from ProMatch racing. they look great!

on my question 2a... how long exactly will it take for my pack to get down to 0.5v?

thanks!
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:54 AM   #34
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Is Tekin coming out with a new charger any time soon? loving the BC112 series. Does what i expect it to do. just wish to see Tekin to come out with a newer charger that has more features on it. Thanks.

Aaron
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:51 PM   #35
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Just asked the same question to Sherri and she said the charger is in R&D at the moment, they are working on speedos right now chargers aren't on top of the list.
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:58 PM   #36
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Default tray!

Well after I discharge my batteries it normally takes anywhere from 10-25 min. depending on how low the batteries were.
The good thing is you can just put them in overnight and not worry about them. I actually forgot one for 5 days and it charged just right. Actually think it was a little better.
Thanks for asking. You will enjoy the new battery DOCS.
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:56 AM   #37
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Quote:
on my question 2a... how long exactly will it take for my pack to get down to 0.5v?
Here's my experience with the Tekin Battery Doctor:

1. To get down to "lights out" (I think it's at .7 volts) takes only a short time as I have already "pack discharged" the pack using Spintec's Battery Manager.

1A. I have also trayed a battery that had about 500 mah into it (without "pack discharging" it), and all the way to "lights out" took only a few minutes.

2. I have monitored each cell with a digital volt meter, and after about ONE HOUR, the voltage was still hovering around .600+ volts. After about THREE HOURS, it was something like .550 to .570 volts or so.

3. After leaving battery trayed overnight, each cell was still in the .520 volts.

4. After leaving battery trayed TWO NIGHTS, each cell was still in the .520 volts -- which means the Tekin Battery Doctor KEEPS IT THERE (doesn't discharge it further, nor does it allow the voltage to creep back up).

In my experience, traying for at least three hours is best -- but who has three hours? I think traying for about 10 minutes more AFTER "lights out" is good enough. In fact, you don't really need to tray your batteries after every discharge. So a "deep discharge" like this once in a while is a good thing. More often is probably better, but who has the time?

In any case, I think I'll get me another Battery Doctor. I was contemplating getting the TeamWave Lightning, but am so pleased with the Battery Doctor that I am not tempted to look elsewhere.
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Old 03-22-2006, 01:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfalfameister
Here's my experience with the Tekin Battery Doctor:

1. To get down to "lights out" (I think it's at .7 volts) takes only a short time as I have already "pack discharged" the pack using Spintec's Battery Manager.

1A. I have also trayed a battery that had about 500 mah into it (without "pack discharging" it), and all the way to "lights out" took only a few minutes.

2. I have monitored each cell with a digital volt meter, and after about ONE HOUR, the voltage was still hovering around .600+ volts. After about THREE HOURS, it was something like .550 to .570 volts or so.

3. After leaving battery trayed overnight, each cell was still in the .520 volts.

4. After leaving battery trayed TWO NIGHTS, each cell was still in the .520 volts -- which means the Tekin Battery Doctor KEEPS IT THERE (doesn't discharge it further, nor does it allow the voltage to creep back up).

In my experience, traying for at least three hours is best -- but who has three hours? I think traying for about 10 minutes more AFTER "lights out" is good enough. In fact, you don't really need to tray your batteries after every discharge. So a "deep discharge" like this once in a while is a good thing. More often is probably better, but who has the time?

In any case, I think I'll get me another Battery Doctor. I was contemplating getting the TeamWave Lightning, but am so pleased with the Battery Doctor that I am not tempted to look elsewhere.
sweet. thanks for the help. and im with you. im thinking a THIRD tray is needed.

these would be an awesome addition next to my CTX-D.... now all my discharging needs have been fulfilled.
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Old 03-28-2006, 03:10 AM   #39
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Default g11/pro

Hi there,

Beside the different fets, is there any other differences between the g11 and the g11 pro? There was another question similar to mine on p1 of this thread, but I found the answer unclear. Is the wiring different? If so, how so?
thanks.
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Old 03-28-2006, 03:39 AM   #40
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The Pro version has solder posts and leaves you to wire up the connectors etc... where as the standard G11 comes pre-wired direct to the board and with a tamiya connector and bullets on the motor side, so you can whack it in and play.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-28-2006, 04:41 AM   #41
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thanks.
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Old 04-03-2006, 12:21 AM   #42
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Default Tekin G11 Pro

Hello all. I have a G11 pro that I think a bec has went bad in it. Heres the problem that I'm having. I took the car off of the track to check the temp of the motor and change gearing. I replaced the pinion and set the car back down on the track. I looked at the G11 and found that there were no lights on. Disconnected the battery and reconnected it thinking the speedo might have needed to be reset. Still no power. I asked around at the track to see if anyone else had the same problem. To my surprise 3 people that have G11 pros are having the same problem. They told me that I would have to go buy a direct lead to connect to the battery to the receiver. So I did and the G11 worked fine as long as it had the alternative power source. Can anyone shed some light on this problem?

Thanks
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Old 04-03-2006, 03:34 AM   #43
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You would need to give a larger breakdown, equipment used etc before any help can realy be given, as it would only be guess work.
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:05 AM   #44
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I was using a 2143 Ko Servo Airtronics Receiver 92836 AMB Tranponder and Co 27 motor with epic 1.21 cells(3800). I also wanted to add that I never disconnected the battery when this happened. The car was driving fine but I was a tooth undegeared so I brought it back to the bench and loosened the pinion and changed it. At that time I turned the car back on and it was dead. I had no power going thru the G11. Thats when I asked questions and found out about the wire that everyone with G11's here at my local track was running from the battery straight to the receiver. Hope this helps
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:39 PM   #45
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I used to have the G-10 pro back in the day's...some 10years ago I think..and really liked it...

anyways....thinking of getting another...

What's the main difference between the current G-10pro and the G-11 pro?
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