If you're running 6 cell the thermal limit is up there. I can't release the temps that I know without speaking to Jim first. I do know that we were higher then Novak. Seriously though this shouldn't be an issue unless you're running a super low turn motor on high bite carpet with no airflow what so ever on the unit. In other words, as long as you don't shrink wrap the R1 or stick it in a balloon you should be ok.
Internal resistance spec on the R1 PRo is:
0.00005 Ohms (brushed fwd mode)
0.00015 Ohms (brushless mode)
0.00015 Ohms (brushed fwd/rev , no motor limits while using 4 to 9 cell sub c.
R1 spec's are:
0.0001 Ohms (bushed fwd mode)
0.0003 Ohms (brushless mode)
0.0003 Ohms (brushed fwd/rev mode) again 4 to 9 cell sub c.
Both spec's also at 3s lipo.
As I'm sure you've heard or found every system is different with cogging,etc. I know that there are certain motor combinations what worked better the others.
The worst condition was when rolling backwards off throttle it takes a brief moment to get started again. This isn't so much a cogging feel as it is a slow start. The car I was testing with was a Fk05. If I was tapped around and it did roll back it took less then 6 inches or so to get back up to speed. The starts were really good. You could cause a bad start if you REALLY tried but you had to be a dummie to do it. If you rolled up to the grid like you normally would the start is awesome. Lanches off the line are great. The higher turn motors like the 10.5's and 13.5's are the worst of the bunch but again we're talking literally inches of a full throttle a main start.
Remember that the R1's are "sensorless" but we ARE sensing the position. We're using the windings for our "sensor."
One of my favorite combo's was the Orion 4.5 motor with the R1 out of all of the "non tekin" motors I tested. Second to that was Novak's 5.5r motor. Super smooth and great all around power.
I'm sure everyone will settle into their favy's when you get to drive 'em!