Nipple

iTrader: (1)

when you servo and esc still working but not the motor, check your brush-comm connection...

AT the race last sunday.....out of 3 heats 2 finals i can only complete 1 heat 1 final rest all due to brush-comm no contact..
all my own fault......I did not solder the brush correctly....

(My last heat could have done 26 laps...sad.....)

Fit

Are you using any comm drops?
If you put too much comm drops, the motor will
not get up to full rpm as the brushes are insulated
by the comm drops.

Also Check your brushes and springs, it could be that your brushes are broken or springs not pushing against the brush hard enough
to make full and proper contact.

fIShCaKe

Hey guys, I am quite new to EP cars, can ya all tell me more about the turns of the motors? Like wot's the diff of them all? And also to recommend motors to me? Which is better, the Kawada V-Moldified or the Yokomo Double Motor?

Alvin

Dude, this URL provides a good overview.

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...w/articles.htm

Search the web for "Motor Black Book" if you wanna read up on motor tuning.

Between the 2 choices, I'd choose a Yokomo S-Pro. If you are seriously new to electric cars, a stocker like the Tamiya Type T may be a better choice. Though in the long run a mod motor can be maintained to extend its life.

Alvin

Midway through this URL

http://home.tiscali.be/heremanss/tc/print.htm

also yet another simple guide to motors.

fIShCaKe

WOAH! Okay, pretty nice websites.. However, what are the best motors to run in the RC speedway track?

Alvin

My laptime between 11x2, 14x2 and 23x2, type T basically the same; infield the 23 turners give very good handling capability ; with a lower turn mod motor in my hands you basically see my car overshooting corners, doing buggy jumps etc. Only good for the straight and in the hands of more experienced drivers. Besides, a 23 stocker or mod 23x2 will give you pretty good run time. 11x2 on friday night gave only about 6 minutes of run time. I setup for corners, not the straights

fIShCaKe

Ohh, as I have already told ya.. I am freakin' new to EP cars.. LOL! I was interested to set up the old EP 1/10 I have becoz I found out that there's gonna be a open race in RC speedway soon, therefore I wish to know the best and optimised motor I should use to play in the race.. hehehe.. I doubt I can enter any mains, however, I wish to enter the competition to gain experience in Electric races.. Can ya help me?

Alvin

That's very difficult to say.... Best and Optimised? Some ppl like to run 9turns, me I like the 13-14 turn range, if you look at the race report of the last modified race held at RC Speedway:

http://www.trazz.com/rc/cck2002round1modified.htm

Go to the very bottom, you will notice the variance in turns and winds 9 turners to 14 turners all can end up in the A main.

This is like kinda a setting option. Some people love my car's handling, some dislike it...

Ok so I'm lying - recently, I love to run 11 doubles! Catches the nitro cars on the rc speedway straight!

Run something higher turn - for several reasons - the car is "slower" in terms of speed, but easier to manage - this will result in more consistent lap times, not doing 1 or 2 super fast laps but always kena crashes or turtles...

fIShCaKe

Wha! Another Express reply again.. Well, I can see that clearly that all of them are running on different specs.. That means to say my decision will be on a not say fast and not say slow.. Kawada V-moldified 13T! hehehhe...

I reckon that the track in RCspeedway is kinda big and I needa do some readjustments to the settings of my car.. sigh..

Alvin

Uh, this is the comm of my Kawada V Modified 13x2 after 2 runs (2 mains)



If you are using dean connectors on your motor I can lend you a 14x2 if we are at the track for you to try out.

Alvin

Right now, I am still considering what motor to buy, either a 11x3 Orion Core Touring (handwound) or Tamiya Super Modified 11T (11x2 machine wound).... all my motors either dead (as above) or bloody used.

fIShCaKe

WHAO! Ya mean the Kawada wears off that easily?! Ohh man.. unfortunately, I am doing direct solder to my motor.. What do ya sugguest?

Alvin

It may or may not be the kawada motor problem. At the moment I am unsure of the problem. Data indicates it may be because the endbell of my motor lacks the brush dampeners found in newer style motors.

Direct solder is up to you, I usually run deans, saves me the hassle. Besides I doubt I can feel the difference of direct solder

MosFat

Wow.. the comm looks pretty bad.. can the black stuff can be removed using brasso?