Bryson

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,
anyone willing to help me de-solder or i should say take out the solder from the ESC for me? Currently its feeling very messy. Would love to make a clean job out of it.
Pictures:





Anyone able to help? I'll pay a few bucks if you want.
Sms or PM me at 81577021.

Tera Hobby

iTrader: (4)

You may want to try your local hobby shop. I sure they can help aslong as they have the equipment to suck out the solder.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you can state your location?

Ray Lan

iTrader: (4)

hello,
I understand its daunting to "try out" on a nice KO Propo speedo, but you really SHOULD try it out yourself by investing in a set of not too expensive soldering equipment.(much much cheaper than the ESC you have there...) That way you will build confidence in your own workmanship that will be useful so long as you play with electrical equipment.
"They can take away your soldering iron, but they can't take away your soldering skills...."

You'll need:
1) A good brand soldering iron with fat tip. Goot 80Watt is a healthy one to start with.
http://www.goot.co.jp/e/item.html?c=11
You can use lower watt irons if you are more skilled, higher wattage irons get the job done faster so that the component doesn't have to endure being heated for too long... ESCs are expensive buggers to fry...
About $16.00 at Sim Lim TOWER <-- This place have lots of Electric RCers "must haves"

NOTE: Many think that their irons are old and "spoilt" when its just that the tip has oxidised and does not adhere to solder. A few good rubs on damp (not wet) cloth and a re-coat of solder usually helps to restore the tip. A good tip is one that fresh solder melt immediately upon contact and the molten solder will stick to the tip. IF your soldering iron tip does not do this, don't try to solder an ESC, it will not melt solder, but damage the ESC's internal circuitry.

2) Soldering Paste. Goot makes a small round box of this stuff for about $3.50. It helps to clean solder surfaces, help solder flow, and help wires soak up solder.
http://www.goot.co.jp/e/item.html?c=62

3) Solder core. The wire-like thing that melts and makes the solder joint. SimLimTower sells a small spool (that you will almost never finish) for about $10.
http://www.goot.co.jp/e/item.html?c=32

4) Desoldering Pump. Effectively removes a blob of molten solder using vaccum effect, great for desoldering.
http://www.goot.co.jp/e/item.html?c=27
A mid/large one costs about $10.

NOTE: I do not get paid by Goot to promote their items, just that I can afford to buy them and have used them with success. The URLs are for your visual reference only.

With these 4 items, you can do a lot of good soldering jobs with ease.
Of course, a "third hand" crocodile clip stand and small vice helps to hold the components in place while you solder.

If you really don't dare to DIY, you can get help from lots of helpful hobbists at the track. Hardcore racers direct solder EVERYTHING and usually carry a wonderful set of soldering equipment. Not to mention that they can usually solder very well too.
IF all else fails and you live near the East Coast, I can bring my equipment over to help you out on weekday evenings.

Have Fun!

Ekmage

iTrader: (10)

nice posting there ray.. hehe ya you should really try to solder yourself as it really is part of the hobby =)

Bryson

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys, i stay at Bishan.
Thanks Ray, for the great info, didnt knew those links do exist.
I would love to do all the soldering myself but i need someone to help me for the first time being so as to learn from there.
I dont want to damage my esc thats the reason.

overtki11

iTrader: (15)

dude, if you got an old silver can motor or something similar, have a go at soldering wires on and off, on and off, on and off.... after a while you'll figure it out. and once you're better aquainted with larger joints and stuff, try some old circuit boards from broken radios or sumthin for the small finicky parts

if you dun have a solder sucker, try this, but make sure no one around you.... hold esc, heat the solder joint with your iron, once you see the solder turning molten, flick the esc! the solder will fly off! hahaha... but make sure you pick up the dried solder residue from the floor....

once again, do this when no one is around you... molten solder burns are not funny.... trust me... i know!

Bryson

iTrader: (2)

Thats a good cheap method, will do it myself on a silver can first.
Just a few questions about it, will it leave some residue on the esc, what if the solder cant come out??

rcjunkie3000

iTrader: (94)

For your first time soldering or removing solder get a friend to help. You'll need an extra hand for someone to hold down the equipment or you can get one of those alligator clip mechanical arms devices. Then friend can use that de-soldering tool they sell at Radio Shack. It is a stick-shaped device that resembles a large ball-point pen that is spring-loaded. Once locked and loaded you press a button that creates a vacuum to suck out the solder.

A set of small needle nose pliers is very helpful and some solder. Sometimes you need solder to remove solder. A very good soldering iron will help (HAKKO 936). If you don't have one make sure to use or borrow a good one that can hold do high temps.

I used to solder with a cheap Radio Shack wand solder tool - it didn't work for me and took a very long time to melt the old solder. You may end up heating the esc solder posts too much. When I first started taking old nimh battery packs apart to remove bad cells it was pita to melt and remove battery bars. I invested in a nice adjustable temp soldering station; Hakko 936 with a fat wide tip to melt solder fast. It is one of the best investments I made for RC. I even got the flame decal skins to make it look cool (totally unnecessary).

Good luck!

Ray Lan

iTrader: (4)

A long time ago when I did not have proper equipment, I use to do soldering on the floor. Ceramic tiles are heat tolerant, wooden tables get burned!

I did my soldering, went to the toilet, came back. I felt a sudden warmness under the feet and it took a few seconds to realise that I stepped on the iron, turned on. Skin on feet thicker ma...
That burn lasted awhile....

Ray Lan

iTrader: (4)

Once solder come in contact with a circuit board/battery bar/motor tab/wire, it can never be totally removed, it will leave a thin layer of solder. Totally not a problem. In fact its a good thing as tin prevents oxidising of copper, and will help when you want to solder that joint again.

Another thing about soldering, use MINIMUM amount of solder to get the job done. More solder = more weight and also = more electrical resistance. The bigger the blob of solder, the longer it takes to cool and solidify, which can lead to COLD SOLDER. VERY BAD, high electrical resistance, and may crack under impact due to slow solidification. Imagine your +ve motor wire come lose during a run, then touch the -ve of the motor, then you squeeze the throttle... High current short circuit. Don't mean to scare you, but better know the consquences, ESC not cheap.

Your best bet is to go to the track on a weekend, and see if the shop owner can fix your problem, or can a racer. Watch his every move to steal some skill from them. Never be afraid or shy to ask WHY, HOW WHEN etc. Thats the fastest way to learn.

overtki11

iTrader: (15)

on components like ESCs, the solder sucker plunger thingy (see below) might not work well as its hard in some instances to get the nozzle close enough...



i find "flicking" the ESC clears the old solder cleaner..... try it on that silver car motor! you'd be surprised! even the "lobang" in the motor tab will be clear of solder!

Bryson

iTrader: (2)

Anyone at BK able to help?

horizon644

iTrader: (2)

Ray,

Can you teach me how to solder properly too?

Aaron Sim

Ray Lan

iTrader: (4)

YOU!!?? You've gotta be kidding...

How are you? Long time no see... probably cos I haven't been to the track in a while.

Hows the aero sector?