Tamiya TRF414M2 Forum
#1
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Tamiya TRF414M2 Forum
How is there not a TRF414M2 forum yet? hopefully this starts it off. i just got my kit and i'm still building it. i'll be done soon tho. anyone kno how surikarn mounted his strut bars? how he mounted his front one backwards? peaches.
-reflekt
-reflekt
#2
Looking to get one myself! I want to get the 414M II WCR limited one! where can I get it???
I used to won 414M a little while back... Now I run EVO II, TA04R... and TC3 ( Selling 2 of my XXXS)
I used to won 414M a little while back... Now I run EVO II, TA04R... and TC3 ( Selling 2 of my XXXS)
#3
Surikarn made his own front sway bar mount. Tamiya is releasing the kit soon. They showed it at the Chicago Show. It is a combination of special servo mounts, a graphite brace, different front arms with extra holes for the Sway Bar ball studs, tie rods, and the extra set of sway bars. The Top mount sway bar allows for lots of "Roll Center" spacers under the susp. mounts.
I'm pretty sure you can get the MII from Speedtechrc.com.
I'm pretty sure you can get the MII from Speedtechrc.com.
#4
There is already a wealth of information on the TRF414M, 414, 414X, etc. forum. We have been talking about the M2 there for quite some time seeing as how it is almost identical to the 414M.
As for Surikarn's swaybar system, most people here hate it. Without the torque rods, the front suspension is not supported well enough and the ballcups pop off. The stock swaybar is horrible because it rubs on the bones and is very inconvenient to connect/disconnect. Most people here have made their own swaybars that rise over the bones and connect to a link on the back of the arm.
As for Surikarn's swaybar system, most people here hate it. Without the torque rods, the front suspension is not supported well enough and the ballcups pop off. The stock swaybar is horrible because it rubs on the bones and is very inconvenient to connect/disconnect. Most people here have made their own swaybars that rise over the bones and connect to a link on the back of the arm.
#5
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
ruf,
sounds interesting. can you show me a pic of that setup. thanx.
-reflekt
sounds interesting. can you show me a pic of that setup. thanx.
-reflekt
#6
Lets keep all info about the 414 series in the "TRF414M, 404X, 414, 414X" forum....
All the info you need is in there....
All the info you need is in there....
#7
Originally posted by Charlie
Surikarn made his own front sway bar mount. Tamiya is releasing the kit soon. They showed it at the Chicago Show. It is a combination of special servo mounts, a graphite brace, different front arms with extra holes for the Sway Bar ball studs, tie rods, and the extra set of sway bars. The Top mount sway bar allows for lots of "Roll Center" spacers under the susp. mounts.
I'm pretty sure you can get the MII from Speedtechrc.com.
Surikarn made his own front sway bar mount. Tamiya is releasing the kit soon. They showed it at the Chicago Show. It is a combination of special servo mounts, a graphite brace, different front arms with extra holes for the Sway Bar ball studs, tie rods, and the extra set of sway bars. The Top mount sway bar allows for lots of "Roll Center" spacers under the susp. mounts.
I'm pretty sure you can get the MII from Speedtechrc.com.
#8
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
I ran my 414m2 on carpet with foams for the first time this week and it was dialed, here's the setup I ended up with.
-TRC plaid front tires, TRC purple rears
-arms spaced back both front and rear
-trinity purple congo springs front and Losi black springs rear, I used Yokomo spring retainers for the larger diameter springs
-80wt front, 60 rear
-second hole from the outside on front and rear towers
-outside hole on arms for shocks front and rear
-Yellow sway bar mounted in stock lower location for front, no sway bar on rear
-2mm spacer under ball cup for rear camber, no spacer under front
-full time 4wd, no oneways
-2mm droop in front, 3mm in rear
-1/2 degree toe in block mounted in the front position on the rear of the car to reduce the toe-in to 1 1/2 degrees
-Trinity carpet stratus
-TRC plaid front tires, TRC purple rears
-arms spaced back both front and rear
-trinity purple congo springs front and Losi black springs rear, I used Yokomo spring retainers for the larger diameter springs
-80wt front, 60 rear
-second hole from the outside on front and rear towers
-outside hole on arms for shocks front and rear
-Yellow sway bar mounted in stock lower location for front, no sway bar on rear
-2mm spacer under ball cup for rear camber, no spacer under front
-full time 4wd, no oneways
-2mm droop in front, 3mm in rear
-1/2 degree toe in block mounted in the front position on the rear of the car to reduce the toe-in to 1 1/2 degrees
-Trinity carpet stratus
#9
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
i've got a question about pinion/spur/ratio
basically, i just built my new TRF414M2, and as you all kno, it comes with a 40tooth pinion 48 pitch, and 3 spur gears. right now, i'm running a Reedy 19turn spec motor with a 120/40 . the ratio i should be running requires a 120/38. do you think my motor will get too hot? also, i'm most likely gonna run stock (probably p2k2), what gears (spur/pinion) should i run it at then? and as a final question, i was at ultimate hobbies the other day (in socal), and i wanted to get a 38t pinion, but they didnt have it. so the guy suggested to switch both the spur and pinion for different robinson racing ones. after switching, how do i figure out the ratio? is it gonna be the same ratio matching up with a different size spur/pinion since tamiya uses metric? the big quesiton really is, what kind of spur/pinion match are you guys running? i kno that with say, a 8turn mod, it should be something like a 120/30. but for stock? and 19t spec? the formula for gear ratio is ...
(spur gear teeth * 35) / (pinion teeth * 15)= gear ratio
thanx.
-reflekt
basically, i just built my new TRF414M2, and as you all kno, it comes with a 40tooth pinion 48 pitch, and 3 spur gears. right now, i'm running a Reedy 19turn spec motor with a 120/40 . the ratio i should be running requires a 120/38. do you think my motor will get too hot? also, i'm most likely gonna run stock (probably p2k2), what gears (spur/pinion) should i run it at then? and as a final question, i was at ultimate hobbies the other day (in socal), and i wanted to get a 38t pinion, but they didnt have it. so the guy suggested to switch both the spur and pinion for different robinson racing ones. after switching, how do i figure out the ratio? is it gonna be the same ratio matching up with a different size spur/pinion since tamiya uses metric? the big quesiton really is, what kind of spur/pinion match are you guys running? i kno that with say, a 8turn mod, it should be something like a 120/30. but for stock? and 19t spec? the formula for gear ratio is ...
(spur gear teeth * 35) / (pinion teeth * 15)= gear ratio
thanx.
-reflekt
#10
Too many variables to decide if the gearing is correct, track, throttle finger, grip etc. Best indication is to look at the brushes after a run, very slight change in colour at the tip and you are OK. Big change in colour....overgeared........no change in colour......you can probably increase the pinnion a little. Thats the best inidcation! However the gearing you have suggested appears to be a good starting point.
#11
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Matt what did you buy to lock out that center one way? Guys around here by the M2 for 290 and then need to buy a front diff setup and then buy a middle one way setup just to get one part to be able to lock out the middle one way. It costs another 70 bucks plus to lock out or to get rid of all oneways. I think it is a very cool car but just like my Yoke SP you need to spend a fair amount of additional money to have no oneways.
#12
You can only get rid of teh one-ways by buying the additional front diff unit and centre drive pully...
#13
Tech Champion
iTrader: (62)
Matt Howard, I've got a few questions about your set up. Was the track open or tight?? The 1/2 deg block that you used for the rear, where did you get it. Does this block come with the kit, since the blocks are not marked how did you know it would make the rear toe 1/2 deg??? Also what rear hub did you use when you ran this block???
#14
The extra 1/2 degree block that is in the kit is marked by a small indent in the top of the block....
Look at your manual, it is shown in the back of the booklet the 2 differnt blocks...
Look at your manual, it is shown in the back of the booklet the 2 differnt blocks...
#15
Can you use the diffs from the TAo4PRO and the pulleys ??
Matt how you doing out there,
WYD wassup ,
Tom look int he box, to find that part, I was told it is in there //
Matt how you doing out there,
WYD wassup ,
Tom look int he box, to find that part, I was told it is in there //