KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

What did you have in your Diff?
Originally I had the stuff that came with the kit, but that didn't do anything for me. So I jumped it up to 1 mil, (The most John had) and it made it abit better but I was still really slow and the diff still felt funny!

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

I installed the anodized blue aluminum steering turnbuckle. The anodizing is not hard at all. A little rubbed off the first time I put a wrench on it. Bummer.

Secondly, I thought the line or notches on turnbuckles always were on the left hand thread side. In this case it seems to be on the right hand thread side. Is my memory wrong?

Lastly, while wrenching I noticed a lot of play in the front suspension. I have the spacers installed. This seems to be too much. More than I'm used to for sure. See the video. Is there a way to tighten this up?

+ YouTube Video

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

There is indeed a bit of slop between the kingpin tubes and the c-hub. One way I can think of is to tighten the hole by lining the insides with CA glue, another is to find a larger flanged tube and enlarge the c-hub holes by drilling them out, which might not be easy get straight though. The flange will not fit between the knuckles but you can flip it around if it's deep/thick enough.

Right now I have a 0.2mm shim between the knuckle and c-hub for removing up/down play.

sosidge

In theory they give you a bit of fine adjustment on the body height as well thanks to the screw thread - I have to say I bought them for my TC and found them to be a hassle so I just use the standard plastic pieces. I have some rubber plumbing washers that I use to fine tune the body height.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

It's harder than the anodizing on cheap aftermarket aluminum turnbuckles, but it's still nothing compared to the anodizing on titanium turnbuckles. It's funny, because titanium anodizing is supposed to be very soft compared to (good) aluminum anodizing, but because titanium anodizing produces its color through light diffraction instead of being colored with dye, scraping off a tiny amount of titanium anodizing doesn't have a significant effect on the color of the part.

It seems to vary by brand. On my Tamiya, HPI, Losi, and Lunsford turnbuckles, the indicator is on the clockwise-threaded side. On my Traxxas and Hot Bodies turnbuckles, the indicator is on the counterclockwise-threaded side.

For kingpin play, I insert shims between the steering knuckle and the steel kingpin bushing. Reducing the up/down play also reduces the wobble a bit.

On my HPI RS4s and Tamiya DF-03Ra's I opted to get aftermarket caster blocks with ball-bearing kingpins, but I haven't found a good set for normal Tamiya touring-cars.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

Finally have all the electronics installed. Had many TBLE02S escs laying around so I took one, opened it up and did the lipo cutoff mod and blacked out wires. Paired it with a Hobbywing V10 21.5 motor, the tabs and sensor cables fit nicely without need for any grinding of the chassis.

Now just gotta paint up the Mazda Demio body and hopefully hit the track next weekend.

Link to the mod for those who are interested:
http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2015/...o-cut-off.html

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Which shocks are you running?

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

42102 TRF Special Dampers with M07 kit springs.

I've tried the 54000 M-Chassis set with short shafts + long rod end, long shafts with short rod ends but I either not get enough ride-height (like 2mm) or the springs would have be cranked all the way down leaving no adjustability.

So far I prefer these regular length dampers as I can get the car around 4-5mm with room to go lower or higher.

Edit: I'm running 55mm tires, hence the ride-height issues I'm getting with the M-sized dampers.

b.wihardja

This is my first M chassis and i'm using blitz mini gti body that listed 225mm. The body fit nicely according to the wheelbase but i think it's too wide. Nearly 10mm left and right. Anyway it's an easy to drive body and chassis

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Got photos?

PizzaDude

Trying to transfer my JCW body from m-05 to my m-07
Do I need to drill new holes for the rear in the body or did I miss something?

Thanks

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

I drove my M-07 more tonight with the swaybars. I'm running red/soft up front and in the rear. It's developed a push and also a behavior where it's constantly losing and regaining traction in corners. The front end is basically stuttering as it loses and regains traction. I don't like that at all. It's more difficult to prediction.

I think I'm either going to disconnect the front sway bar or install the blue/hard bar in the rear.

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

I used the ball diff with Losi brown ball diff grease. This stuff makes the diff action sluggish. I didn't have the gear diff built for the race.. I tried the spool front end in Q1 but felt the ball diff was easier to drive so I used it for the main.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh another Ball Diff!!!
Okay gotta look into this now!!!

Thanks Carl, Hope to see you and the Little Guys soon!
Mike

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I received my hole plug in the mail today,
Quality seems very nice and the fit is perfect!

here is a photo..