Most Complete Touring Car???
11-19-2002, 11:59 AM
#31
Originally posted by DEACON
I started off leaning heavily towards the Xray T1 Evo2 and the Tamiya 414M2. However, I became a little put off by the high cost of the new C hub setup for the Evo2. I know about Hudy quality, but $175 is steep! Can the price of the C hub setup really be worth half the price of the kit.
I started off leaning heavily towards the Xray T1 Evo2 and the Tamiya 414M2. However, I became a little put off by the high cost of the new C hub setup for the Evo2. I know about Hudy quality, but $175 is steep! Can the price of the C hub setup really be worth half the price of the kit.
11-19-2002, 12:11 PM
#32
Well, I have kept quiet a little to long....LOL.....
Basically if you really look at things the X-RAY IS the most inconmplete touring car on the market. Buy this one and you need a set of calipers (mine cost $40) and a hudy set-up station, just because of your wonderful pivot ball suspension!
The Yok is on the way out , Musami has been seen testing a new tourer however they haven't realeased any spy shots yet so the car is a year or more on the way.
The 414M2 could be concidered the very most complete with 2 sets of suspension components in the box, YES you get spares in the box. The only difference between the WCR and the standard M2 is the front sway bar and assorted aluminum spacers.... Which can be bought for under $40...... The standard M2 isn't a limited run either, and all the 04R suspension parts bolt right up.
All c-hub cars can be adjusted with just a RPM chamber guage and a ruler.... Pivot balls can't say the same......
Basically if you really look at things the X-RAY IS the most inconmplete touring car on the market. Buy this one and you need a set of calipers (mine cost $40) and a hudy set-up station, just because of your wonderful pivot ball suspension!
The Yok is on the way out , Musami has been seen testing a new tourer however they haven't realeased any spy shots yet so the car is a year or more on the way.
The 414M2 could be concidered the very most complete with 2 sets of suspension components in the box, YES you get spares in the box. The only difference between the WCR and the standard M2 is the front sway bar and assorted aluminum spacers.... Which can be bought for under $40...... The standard M2 isn't a limited run either, and all the 04R suspension parts bolt right up.
All c-hub cars can be adjusted with just a RPM chamber guage and a ruler.... Pivot balls can't say the same......
11-19-2002, 12:11 PM
#33
I agree with BigDog, Paul and Adrian are some of the best people in the buisiness, and for the most part Schumacher drivers are pretty helpful. True Shumie parts are not the most common, but most of us that drive every weekend, have an extra set of the breakable pieces. My suggestion to anyone new that is getting into the hobby, whichever car you are getting, is to find out the parts that break the most and buy an extra set when you buy the kit. As far as completeness, all the cars suggested here are pretty complete, go for the kit that is most appealing to you. This time around, it was the Mission, and it has been the best tourer I have ever had.
just my .02
just my .02
11-19-2002, 12:22 PM
#34
Hey Deacon,
had to read your stuff twice and I didn't see any mention of what kind of racing you want to do. Stock touring, mod, what ?
I'll throw my hat in the ring too. I'm a B Main driver who's probably followed the worst road possible. Started with a TL01,sold it and got a TC3 racer. Sold it and got TA04R, sold it and got Mission, now selling it and got TB Evo 2. All within a year !!! Anxious yes !! Foolish....Probably !! A great racer...NO !! But,..I learned alot of things about different companies and their products. I have no strings to any company. I decided on the brand I use for a variety of reasons. The main one was because of the racing series availability.
That said....base your choice on YOUR needs,wants and the level of racing that you're at. After you've experimented,You'll find that alot of the cars are really good or can be made really good ACCORDING TO YOUR STYLE !! I'll shut up by saying this. I didn't really get hooked until I got my TC3. It made me aware of how technical and how much more COULD be done if I was really interested in learning it. Buy a car that allows for some tuning,some tweaking and some perfecting. Local parts support definately is better. You may never find the perfect car "right out of the box". Can I get an AMEN !!!!
had to read your stuff twice and I didn't see any mention of what kind of racing you want to do. Stock touring, mod, what ?
I'll throw my hat in the ring too. I'm a B Main driver who's probably followed the worst road possible. Started with a TL01,sold it and got a TC3 racer. Sold it and got TA04R, sold it and got Mission, now selling it and got TB Evo 2. All within a year !!! Anxious yes !! Foolish....Probably !! A great racer...NO !! But,..I learned alot of things about different companies and their products. I have no strings to any company. I decided on the brand I use for a variety of reasons. The main one was because of the racing series availability.
That said....base your choice on YOUR needs,wants and the level of racing that you're at. After you've experimented,You'll find that alot of the cars are really good or can be made really good ACCORDING TO YOUR STYLE !! I'll shut up by saying this. I didn't really get hooked until I got my TC3. It made me aware of how technical and how much more COULD be done if I was really interested in learning it. Buy a car that allows for some tuning,some tweaking and some perfecting. Local parts support definately is better. You may never find the perfect car "right out of the box". Can I get an AMEN !!!!
11-19-2002, 12:45 PM
#35
I have driven a evo with c-hubs and one without. The c-hubs do help ( at least on a high bite carpet track) The difference is in un-sprung weight. The car with the standard suspension feels very lazy in and out of the corners. Yes it did handle well but just felt lazy. The car with the c-hubs was great. You could throw it in a corner and it would jump out. If I were to race on a high bite track with a evo 2 I would have to get the c-hub conversion. From what I have been told the stock setup works great on the asphault wich makes sense to me. Most of the world seems to race on anything other than carpet so that is most likely why the car comes with the pivot ball suspension. If you have the option of trying the c-hubs give it a try I am not bull sh-ting you it makes a difference.
11-19-2002, 06:42 PM
#36
Okay, back again... I think when he said Limited Edition for the 414M2... he meant the "Worlds" Edition. I still have and race my 414M2 and TC3. But back to the 414M2... you can easily get parts from Tower or SpeedtechRc (some parts are the same from the TA04 series). I bought a front diff and locked pulley gear, but never ran them. I much prefer the dual oneway setup that the car came with. Anyhow, the only tuning aid I bought was the spring kit. You might want shims too if you plan on adjusting things like squat or roll centers. Other than that the car is complete. As for a FT-TC3.... I always have raced oneways... but now after racing with a front solid axle... I'm leaning towards that! Would love to find one for the 414!
Back to X-Ray...... only thing holding me from getting it is the optional suspension kit. I just wish the X-Ray came with that instead of the other suspension. Just my preference. But I'd still like to try the X-Ray sometime soon. Maybe someday the X-Ray will come as a Factory Team Edition! hehe...
Love the yokomo! Still have my YR4-M2 Pro (japanese version). Would like to see what they have up their sleeve next.......
Back to X-Ray...... only thing holding me from getting it is the optional suspension kit. I just wish the X-Ray came with that instead of the other suspension. Just my preference. But I'd still like to try the X-Ray sometime soon. Maybe someday the X-Ray will come as a Factory Team Edition! hehe...
Love the yokomo! Still have my YR4-M2 Pro (japanese version). Would like to see what they have up their sleeve next.......
11-19-2002, 06:47 PM
#37
haha... goin back to reading.... I started back into RC last year with my YR4M2.... then got the Yok Special... traded it for a FT T3... bought a XXX-S... sold it... got 2 TC3 Racer kits...... sold one... got a 414M2 for a TCS race...... now hooking up my TC3 for Cleveland........ XRay has been on my list... just haven't commited to it yet! Oh well... all are great cars... I just find that the TC3 is the best for Stock so far. Especially on carpet. Although my 414 seems to be alot smoother......
11-20-2002, 01:00 AM
#38
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.
I am amused at the way some guys tell you to buy an XYZ because it is good straight out of the box, as if it is the only car that is.
I have built and raced Schumachers that were great - out of the box. I have built all sorts of Yokes that have been great - out of the box. The most impressive one out of the box has been the TC3. There are guys out here racing FTTC3s absolutely as I built them - out of the box, and they are competitive. And they didn't need to spend a fortune on chassis tuning equipment to get them right.
I have built Corallys that were great - out of the box, and the same goes with the XXXS.
So being great out of the box is not a bonus to boast about. They should be good out of the box. That's what we pay for.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
I am amused at the way some guys tell you to buy an XYZ because it is good straight out of the box, as if it is the only car that is.
I have built and raced Schumachers that were great - out of the box. I have built all sorts of Yokes that have been great - out of the box. The most impressive one out of the box has been the TC3. There are guys out here racing FTTC3s absolutely as I built them - out of the box, and they are competitive. And they didn't need to spend a fortune on chassis tuning equipment to get them right.
I have built Corallys that were great - out of the box, and the same goes with the XXXS.
So being great out of the box is not a bonus to boast about. They should be good out of the box. That's what we pay for.
Regards
Joe from sunny Malta.
11-20-2002, 01:32 AM
#39
Best Tourer
The X-Ray is by far the best car for your $$$.
It's fast straight out of the box.. no need for hop - ups, It has the widest range of tuning options ive seen in a car with out buying anything extra and its very strong, so it isnt often you have to replace worn or broken parts..
It's fast straight out of the box.. no need for hop - ups, It has the widest range of tuning options ive seen in a car with out buying anything extra and its very strong, so it isnt often you have to replace worn or broken parts..
11-20-2002, 01:36 AM
#40
Xray. End of story.
11-20-2002, 03:05 AM
#41
OPEL92, not dumping the atlas I hope????
11-20-2002, 03:09 AM
#42
Re: Best Tourer
Originally posted by -CriMinaL- |RC
its very strong, so it isnt often you have to replace worn or broken parts..
its very strong, so it isnt often you have to replace worn or broken parts..
However that said the Xray is a very good car, but so is the TRF414M.
But the easiest car to drive fast is the Yokomo TC Special, very easy to set up....
Last edited by rccarracer; 11-20-2002 at 03:13 AM.
11-20-2002, 03:13 AM
#43
However when you spend around the US$250 - $400 mark for most competition spec cars, you generally get a very good car anyway.
So my advice is look for what is available readily in your area in terms of parts, and then ask yourself what appeals to you....
So my advice is look for what is available readily in your area in terms of parts, and then ask yourself what appeals to you....
Last edited by rccarracer; 11-20-2002 at 03:15 AM.
11-20-2002, 05:24 AM
#44
Wow, lots of activity since my last post!
I should remind you that my question is... "Most Complete Touring Car???"
I should have mentioned that before selling all of my equipment, I had literally, thousands of parts and extras. As a matter of fact, I still have a bunch of stuff that didn't sell.
My goal here in returning to R/C is to get a car that I can be competitive with, that requires fewer upgrades/options and to spend more time having fun racing, rather than accumulating so much stuff.
No more, bags of unopened parts. No more Tools that work for one kit, but not another. No more, spending more than I realize, until its to late. No more subscriptions to 3 r/c magazines.
This time I'm going to buy an inexpensive 3 channel FM radio (should have kept my M8), 6 or 7 battery packs, a decent ESC, a "high end" chassis, a few tools, something to sit on, an umbrella and a supply of Gatorade.
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BigDogRacin: Thanks for you comments. Although, I realize that threaded shock bodies don't make or break a car, having them makes tuning easier. A one-way is different though. With/without one the driving charactistics are completely different.
rtypec: The C hub option may not be necessary for my driving style. The problem is, I don't want to have to spend nearly $200 to find out. You may be right though.
IMPACTPLAYR: Good point! I have calipers (dial and digital left over from racing days gone by), however, I sold my Integy Setup device. This time, I hope to limit the need for setup tools (RPM camber gauge).
rcpigz: In the past I raced in what I consider the most competitive form of TC racing... Stock.
However, I don't want to say that I wouldn't race Modified or a 19 turn spec. class. I don't do carpet anymore. Strictly parking lot in the hot summer sun. 
Thanks guys. We're about to enter winter here on the East Coast, so I've got a couple of months to make up my mind.
I should remind you that my question is... "Most Complete Touring Car???"
I should have mentioned that before selling all of my equipment, I had literally, thousands of parts and extras. As a matter of fact, I still have a bunch of stuff that didn't sell.
My goal here in returning to R/C is to get a car that I can be competitive with, that requires fewer upgrades/options and to spend more time having fun racing, rather than accumulating so much stuff.
No more, bags of unopened parts. No more Tools that work for one kit, but not another. No more, spending more than I realize, until its to late. No more subscriptions to 3 r/c magazines.
This time I'm going to buy an inexpensive 3 channel FM radio (should have kept my M8), 6 or 7 battery packs, a decent ESC, a "high end" chassis, a few tools, something to sit on, an umbrella and a supply of Gatorade.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BigDogRacin: Thanks for you comments. Although, I realize that threaded shock bodies don't make or break a car, having them makes tuning easier. A one-way is different though. With/without one the driving charactistics are completely different.
rtypec: The C hub option may not be necessary for my driving style. The problem is, I don't want to have to spend nearly $200 to find out. You may be right though.
IMPACTPLAYR: Good point! I have calipers (dial and digital left over from racing days gone by), however, I sold my Integy Setup device. This time, I hope to limit the need for setup tools (RPM camber gauge).
rcpigz: In the past I raced in what I consider the most competitive form of TC racing... Stock.
However, I don't want to say that I wouldn't race Modified or a 19 turn spec. class. I don't do carpet anymore. Strictly parking lot in the hot summer sun. Thanks guys. We're about to enter winter here on the East Coast, so I've got a couple of months to make up my mind.
11-20-2002, 07:15 AM
#45
Deacon - you mention buying 6 or 7 packs... I guess you last raced in the NiCd days, where it was one run a day to be at the top of the timesheets - the thing is, with NiMH's, they tend to be stronger on the second run, and three runs a day is not out of the question.
So I'd save a couple of hundred on the cells, getting 3 or 4 packs at most (I run with two, but when there's a quick turnaround I feel it's one too few), and put it into the car or other accesories.
So I'd save a couple of hundred on the cells, getting 3 or 4 packs at most (I run with two, but when there's a quick turnaround I feel it's one too few), and put it into the car or other accesories.