hanulec

iTrader: (28)

These are just more xenon plastic.. a great update

bdw11

Guys there are a few of us in Fresno that have 235mm pan cars we started playing with. I have the Roche Rapide P10W as well. Beautiful and fast car. We started running 13.5 2 cell blinky but no organized class yet at our club. What is happening on the west coast northern Cal area for this class? Any discussion on this topic?

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

hope soon once i get stuff organizes and can get one together.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...iscussion.html

pphaneuf

If you're looking at organising some Pro10 races, you might be interested in this round-up of Pro10 rules around the world I did, for inspiration, and maybe the simple set of rules I came up with for here based on that round-up.

pphaneuf

Finally got my act together, and got my P10W on the track...

I unfortunately snapped off both front body posts, in rather mild crashes? Seems like they are a good deal more brittle than XRay or Associated equivalent, comparing the plastics...

Which leads me to a running issue I've been having with various Roche kits: what the heck is going on with the part numbers?!?

These body posts, for example, exist under (at least?) THREE different part numbers: C40015 (from the manual, but doesn't turn up anything on the Roche website search), ROC-240014 (not in the manual, but does come up on their search, at least), and OPT-0073 (which I believe is the Xenon part number?).

That makes it kind of difficult to source replacements/spare parts!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

agreed -- but at the back of the manual there is a magical decoder matrix for these part #

pphaneuf

Is that on a separate sheet? I'm using the PDF version of the manual, most of the time, it doesn't have that matrix... I'll dig up the paper one that came with the car when I have a chance, thanks!

pphaneuf

Different question: I'm currently running a 2S stick battery (full size), but I'm thinking of switching to shorty batteries. The manual says that transverse gives more neutral handling, with less steering response, for low traction surfaces.

I assume inline is generally "more steering response, for higher traction surfaces", but what's the difference like between forward and rearward battery positioning?

Thanks in advance!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

guess the 1/12 manuals are a bit different. ill speak w/ Max about this

daleburr

A more rearward weight distribution will give more traction on corner-exit, but will be less stable on corner entry (more turn-in).

More forwards weight distribution is the opposite.

Generally I prefer rearwards on tarmac, and forwards on carpet. You see this in TC too with brass parts at the front on carpet.

I tried both full-size and shorty in my Vorlon and much preferred the shorty (mounted all the way back). Much more traction, which is important outdoors.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

We just had a Pro 10 race at WSR Fremont last weekend. Class is still small with only 4 cars competing that day. If only we could get everyone out at one time, that number would probably be closer to 10. The class is super fun running 10.5 boosted on a fifth scale track.

strodedawg

iTrader: (85)

Hello,
Just received my roche and will be start the building process. I will be running 2s blinky on gray carpet and was wondering on any set-up tips? swift 235 body and shorty lipo. was thinking on battery placement and electronics placement
thanks

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

what he said ^^^

which battery placement have you guys found to work best and for what type of surface?

im looking for asphalt info.

strodedawg

iTrader: (85)

i have placed the battery in the front and 40wt in all shocks, but now I can't get the swift 235 body to mount properly. The servo arm is hitting the body and will not allow me too mount the front low enough, shimmed I would need to run full size fronts. Little info support from roche and the forums, getting frustrated. Mainly an offroad guy lol

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

maybe try a different kind of body. ???