fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

First race at 386 raceway with the new car and came back with a win. And tq. I built the car box stock and had the same issue using 5 mm shim up front. I ended up using the 4 mm and 3 mm blocks combined and got to 5 mm ride height. The car was good right out of the box. The major difference I noticed was good corner speed. .3 tenths faster than older car. I'm very happy with the decision to get the new car.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I used the 10's and yes I glue my sidewalls both front and rear for Fastrac II.

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

What major changes in the car have been done. I'm thinking of getting another car for spec175 racing. Would this car be better suited for foam tire racing.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

You might have an issue with ride height if you run your foams small. The car was designed for the tall rubber tires.
You would probably need different rear pod plates and you would remove the spacers from the front (run the front arms like a 1/12 scale).

dumper

iTrader: (1)

I'm running just the 5mm block and an orange shim out of the #4262 pack......

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

Thanks. BW. I figured that. Car was so easy to drive. I definitely saw a difference between the se slider and gen xrt.

Gravity Dodger

iTrader: (10)

Hi guys, looking for set-up suggestions for my new r/t car. The track I run at runs a short track series during the Summer (80x30 apprx) and has the new CRC carpet but doubles as an off road track so astro is placed over it weekly leaving debris even though the guys diligently vacuum it and the layout is different every week so initial traction is low but by mains grip is good but not over the top.
I built my car mostly stock with 5º caster, mid front width, long wheelbase, .45F/.50S, red center spring long shock cup, 10k tubes, full forward inline battery, .5 toe out, 1º camber, and I don't know the exact amount of droop but I have maybe 1.5 override height front and rear. The car felt good in the slower technical part of the track but had a severe on power push and bad push mid to exit on the high speed sweeper. I made two changes to the car that both helped but didn't completely solve the issue, first I added camber to 1.5 and second I used a stiffer speed merchant gold center spring. During the mains car felt better with the increased traction levels but still had a ton of push. I was looking for a setup sheet for this car but I realize its so new so any suggestions or links are appreciated. I included a pic of tonights track for reference.
Thanks,
Paul

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I didn't measure my actual caster but I started with the 10 degree reactive blocks. Caster was originally all shims back and the car did what you said, on power push. I moved two shims to the front and the push went away. No other changes. I also run the rear even to .5 higher in the rear.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

Any particular preferences in body choice for this class or anything to look for?

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

I run the protoform pfm.10 . I like the handling. Good speed also

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

Any advice on more traction off throttle turning in. My car could use just a touch. More front bite turning into corners. I use sxt. 3.0 car is built box stock with 5 degree castor blocks. Ride height equal at 5mm. Front and back. And 1.5 degrees of Neg camber. I heard cranking in more on the center spring may work.

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

That does not stiffen the car but raises the rear ride height. If you have a ESC with adjustable drag brake, try adding 5% more than you have. That sets the car into a corner and aids turn in. Another trick is push brake but I set the drag for 90% of the track and use push on the really tight corners. More caster makes the car turn in.

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna t r y a few of those and see what happens. Wgtr racing at 386 raceway is heating up.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Already have a WGT-SE to WGT-R conversion; but, now building a new Gen-X 10 R/T.

Here is my upgraded optional parts list for those that may be interested:
#32462 Bronze Lower Arm Ball - Prostrut (smoother than stock)
#40194 Hard Anodized Teflon Coated Pivot Ball (center pivot)
#13616 Hard Anodized Side Link Balls
#1260 CRC Team Standoffs 1/2" H (bling)
#3344 Ti(tanium) ProStrut Upper Pivot Ball (possibly just a bling item; but, I like them)
#1261 Battery O-ring (to run battery in optional sideways position)
#3408 Encore/VCS Spring - White (red and white seem to handle most situations on carpet)

Lunsford 45mm titanium tie rods with TOP Racing's open-style rod ends (used on their TC cars). Bulletproof!
Lunsford 4-40 titanium screws (to replace certain red aluminum ones provided in kit). Note: I use slightly longer screws (2 each @ 1/2" long) in the left rear hub that go all the way through the threads in the hub to prevent any stripping issues.
Ceramic balls (16) in spur gear
#134 Slapmaster Thrust Bearing Kit for rear axle (love this upgrade)

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Question...Is anyone convinced that running the battery in the side-to-side position at the back is the way to go.

Thinking that Dumper may be back to the down-the-center battery position per most recent photo on the CRC website...If that is his chassis being shown.

Thanks.

Bill