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TT-01 Forum

Old 02-28-2008, 06:25 AM
  #826  
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what's the hightes (fastest) gearing for tt01?

i already have the 55/25 gearing... any other brands that's capable of higher speed ?
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:17 AM
  #827  
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Hey vinsedprince, check out the last couple of pages in this forum. You will find a lot of info about gearing and how to do it. I run 40x65 on my carbon chassis and I think Racebucks runs 30x52 on a bath tub chassis.
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:25 AM
  #828  
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I don't think that you can change the torque profile of a motor without taking it apart and rewinding it. That is probably not what you meant. The other way is to change the torque at the wheels and you change that by using different gears. You will find a lot of relevant info in the last couple of pages in this forum.

Originally Posted by CLK@racing
Guys,

How can I increase the torque in my silver can motor?

Thanks in advance for the tips.
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:10 AM
  #829  
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Originally Posted by brrrrm
Hey Redko,
I got the 30T at my LHS. It was not a Tamiya one. See post 735 for pinion options.

Today I tested my 40x65 (48 pitch) setup using the HPI spur gear adapter (see post 779) and silver can. This is a FDR of 4.23. The car simply flies on the straights and there is still enough torque to spin the rear wheels in corners, so acelleration should not be a problem in a race, but only the real race will tell. What pleased me most is that the motor temp was not too bad. Too hot to touch, but no charring. After 10 minutes in a cool breeze the motor was ready for another run. Some pics below.
how much you spend on TT-01??? my wild guess that hop up option can buy you high end touring car nice ride tough BLing 2 the max
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:05 PM
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DRAG_ON you are right ofcourse. With the money I spent on my TT-01s I could have bought one high end racer. But that is no fun for me, I like building good cars from the stuff I already have.
I have two complete TT-01s and enough spares for a third. I use the carbon fibre chasis for racing at the local track. There I surprise the high end racers with my TT-01 in the 540 class. Then I have an offroad basher that I use around the house. It picks up the dirt outside and takes in in the house .
When I get another ECU and receiver I will build a drifter from all the other parts I have left.
This hobby just grew on me. Before you know it you have many spare parts and an empty wallet. The TT-01 spares are readily available anywhere too. So far I never had to miss a couple of hours of fun because something broke and I did not have a spare somewhere.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:55 AM
  #831  
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I dropped the new gears in the car. I ran foam on carpet, 13.5 sintered, 3200 lipo, 28/55. The car was crazy fast but I was still not able to get the motor above 115 degrees. I was able to turn the fastest lap of the night. However, the car is now moving way to fast for the suspension (fiction shocks, nothing adjustable).
Thanks very much for the tip on the gears. It will certainly help out over the summer on blacktop.
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:17 PM
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Now the fun starts. You are probably looking at upgrading your tires and shocks for starters. Then you may add camber adjustable suspension, steering set with bearings and turnbuckle tie rods. Each new item requires tuning under race conditions. I found that adding one new item at a time is the best way to learn what effect it has on the car. That way it keeps you busy for many hours.
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:52 PM
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It is very exciting reading this. I was going to give up on TT-01s because of gearing... but can this actually work in the tub chassis? The actual part it takes for the spur gears from HPI is rather inexpensive too...

I'll definitely look into this over the summer. For now, my TT-01 sits in the dust (This year I am focusing on my Academics and will resume the fun later) How do you guys discharge your batteries to keep them fresh when you can't drive it?
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:03 PM
  #834  
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Originally Posted by brrrrm
Now the fun starts. You are probably looking at upgrading your tires and shocks for starters. Then you may add camber adjustable suspension, steering set with bearings and turnbuckle tie rods. Each new item requires tuning under race conditions. I found that adding one new item at a time is the best way to learn what effect it has on the car. That way it keeps you busy for many hours.
No, no need to upgrade. I am on the podium every week without....
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:41 PM
  #835  
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Test Results:
1) Is the TT-01 a competitive racer?
2) What upgrades are required to run at a competitive level?
3) Future tests?

Introduction:
Just completed running a TT-01 at the Aliso Viejo TCS event in the GT-3 class. GT-3 requires a Tamiya tub chassis and a silver can motor and is predominately run with highly hopped up TA-05's. 29 of the 35 cars were TA-05's, probably 20-25 of these were so heavily hopped up that clearly costs in excess of $350-$400. I also saw 2 TA-04's, 2 FF-02's, 1 TB-02, and I ran the only TT-01. I ran a highly upgraded TA-05 in last years TCS. I sold the car, but got the itch again this year to drive another class so that I'm not sitting for 2 days driving my Mini in only a handful of races.

1) Is the TT-01 a competitive racer?
I started with buying the cheapest kit Tamiya makes, the Enzo TT-01, and tried to make it work, only buying upgrades as needed when testing showed without it I would be uncompetitive. The only upgrades from box stock on race day were bearings, gears, and tires.
I finished in the middle of the B-main; Watching the A-main and the top B-main drivers made me realize that I was not held back by the chassis. With a better motor and a lower drive ratio I might have finished a couple places higher, but that was it. If I had been allowed to run my Corally Phi with the same motor and gear ratio I wouldn't have been in the top portion of the B. This chassis is fine for silver can racing without a lot of mods.

2) What upgrades are required to run at a competitive level?
a) Bearings are a must. I bought the $18 Tamiya bearings for the TT-01. I soaked then in motor spray overnight to flush out the grease, soaked them another day in thin oil. After this they spun very freely. This may cut down on the life of the bearings, but you want a free drive train; that’s the price we pay for racing.
b) The 19T pinion and 61T stock spur is for beginners in the Spec class. I'm fairly advanced so I wanted whatever drive ratio gave the best time for the track. Some people ran silver cans at drive ratios of 3.8, I suspected that the mid 4's were optimum. Tamiya sells options for getting the drive ratio as low as 5.7 (25T pinion / 55 spur) so several of us on this thread have done research to improve this. See the table below for how to target the gear ratio you need. I ran the 52T spur, the largest pinion I had was a 28T; if I had the 29T or 30T I would have used it. No single best answer here, your track will require a different solution.
In an earlier post I mentioned motor heat as a problem. Found I had some rubbing going on in the back diff; once that was solved my motor never got hot through-out the whole day.
I’m not going to say much about silver can tuning other than to say it was clearly being done by good motor guys; I had a strong motor in my Mini but decided to run this car with what a beginner could do. I ran with an underwhelming 12.3k rpm @ 5v motor and guys were getting disqualified all day for going over the 15k limit. Nuff said.
c) I ran the Tamiya B3 tires I had left over from last year. Decided not to even try the kit tires; kit tires wear so quickly that I would have worn them out in 1 practice. The cost of replacing kit tires over and over makes no sense. Since this doesn't differentiate between car models it didn't bother me to run the non-kit type; any chassis will have this issue.

Now for what didn't need upgrading:
d) Did not use oil shocks; used the friction shocks. This was the closest call as upgrades go; with the friction shocks the car had a lot of bounce and that doesn't look pretty, but with a silver can motor I don't think the performance was affected. I had to run the car at 1500 grams, that was a lot of weight to add and the friction shocks didn't like it. Maybe the car would have done better with oil shocks, but you should see the look on peoples faces when they found out they were the stock shocks!
e) Did not use an upgraded ESC; Silver cans don't need it; I would reconsider if the motor is stronger.
f) Did not use the aluminum drive shaft. Silver cans don't need it; I would reconsider if the motor is stronger.
g) Did not use 2 degree rear hubs. Silver cans don't need it; I would reconsider if the motor is stronger.
h) Did not use adj Toe or Camber links. Silver cans don't need it; I would reconsider if the motor is stronger.
i) Did not use ball differentials. I packed the front gear diff with anti-wear grease, left the rear gear diff free.
h) Did not use any stiffeners. Silver cans don't need it; I would reconsider if the motor is stronger.

3) Future tests?
a) ROAR is now moving to the brushless 17.5T being the new stock, and my local tracks are talking of moving that way. I run a 13.5T sintered with advance timing in my Corally Phi and I really don't think the TT-01 can handle that kind of power without major expensive upgrades. But I'm wondering about the 17.5? Brushless also like very low drive ratios so all the gearing research will still pay off.
b) Setting droop to control the weight transfer is a very critical adjustment that I make a lot of use of in all the sedans I've owned. The TT-01 does not have droop control and it would have to be done by shimming the shocks (not easy to adjust on the fly!). Where the lack of gearing was the main limiting factor in silver can classes, lack of good droop control I suspect is the main limiting factor in the stronger motor classes.

Conclusion:
The TT-01 is a great car for the Spec or silver can type classes.
I'll keep playing with it for stock classes and keep posting.
Resist the urge to plow a lot of upgrades into the car, it probably needs less than you would think. Bling is fun, I’m not trying to knock it, just looking to see if a $100 car (including upgrades) can work; Yes it can!

Below is a table for all the gear combos without modifying the chassis, and a couple of pictures of the car.
Attached Thumbnails TT-01 Forum-pinions.jpg   TT-01 Forum-img_9663_2.jpg   TT-01 Forum-img_9665_2.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2008, 08:01 AM
  #836  
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Nice write up!

I don't agree that the car is not competive with the 13.5 without modification in a normal touring car class. Just this past weekend I again ran the quickest lap. I was running tires that were too small, which kept me from the win. But the car is without at doubt capable of winning on a high level at $85.00.
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Old 03-04-2008, 01:12 PM
  #837  
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brrrrm - now that your using 48 pitch, is the car alot quieter now??

Mooshu Beef - i am waiting for both the gearing & spur gear adaptor. Im still using my bathtub chassis, so i will be letting everyone know if this mod can fit with the bathtub frame...
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:01 PM
  #838  
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is anyone able to tell me what the measurements are for the turnbuckles for the adjustable upper arms, i would like to replace my existing ones for blue items!!
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:31 PM
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RaceBucks,
Great summary. I agree that the TT-01 is a capable racer in the silver can category, but the need for hop ups (= better road handling) depends on the track. My local track is very technical with one long straight. It is medium friction asphalt, slightly sloping and some parts are in the shade. It demands a lot from a car. I started out with no hop ups, but was ineffective, too much understeer and too slow on the straight. In retrospect - after spending a fortune on hop ups to get it right, I would settle for bearings, oil shocks + set of springs, camber adjustable front suspension, tyres and FDR 4.2. During hot weather I would also use a motor heat sink.
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon
brrrrm - now that your using 48 pitch, is the car alot quieter now??
Did not notice a difference in noise - but then I was not looking for it.
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