Team Magic G4
06-16-2009, 05:13 AM
wait for any 'bugs' to be ironed out if there's any and maybe have more reviews on it.
still love my G4+evo every single bit and day!
i've too much spares and done too much work on it to give up now.
but the new RS sure looks tempting! haha...
06-16-2009, 06:51 AM
for sure there will be improvements. probably they have also figure out when to release the better version of g4II 
but for now, i need some help to begin with. im suffering from a severe understeer at long right corner exit. same goes the other way round.
if some one could point me the right direction generally maybe can save lots of precious time for testing.
track info: low traction,a bit loose. semi technical and a bit tight with a big corner and a long straight. 4 very low speed hair pins. about 350m distance.
front setting:-
solid axle front
1' front toe out
-1' chamber
800 shock oil
TM purple spring(second thinnest)
-2mm dro0p
ride hide 7.5mm
rear setting:-
stock diff oil
2.5' toe out
-4' chamber
800 shock oil
Tm green spring(thinnest)
-1mm dro0p
ride hide 8mm
but for now, i need some help to begin with. im suffering from a severe understeer at long right corner exit. same goes the other way round.
if some one could point me the right direction generally maybe can save lots of precious time for testing.
track info: low traction,a bit loose. semi technical and a bit tight with a big corner and a long straight. 4 very low speed hair pins. about 350m distance.
front setting:-
solid axle front
1' front toe out
-1' chamber
800 shock oil
TM purple spring(second thinnest)
-2mm dro0p
ride hide 7.5mm
rear setting:-
stock diff oil
2.5' toe out
-4' chamber
800 shock oil
Tm green spring(thinnest)
-1mm dro0p
ride hide 8mm
06-16-2009, 07:35 AM
my suggestion would be to use harder shocks all around or use the third tm spring for the front. also increase your front camber to 2 degrees and also the droops seem way of... use 2 front 4-5 back
hope this helps
hope this helps
06-16-2009, 07:58 AM
Hey what's going on with all the TM threads about all their different models like the G4+ evo, G4RS, G4RS09, G4S. Is it all consolidated into one thread or something?
06-16-2009, 09:07 AM
have fun
06-16-2009, 09:29 AM
i mount both front and rear spring 1 rate higher. lets say, setting is almost there, should i refine my settings starting with camber first or droop first?
06-16-2009, 10:21 AM
Excuse me??
06-16-2009, 10:28 AM
06-16-2009, 10:51 AM
for sure there will be improvements. probably they have also figure out when to release the better version of g4II
but for now, i need some help to begin with. im suffering from a severe understeer at long right corner exit. same goes the other way round.
if some one could point me the right direction generally maybe can save lots of precious time for testing.
track info: low traction,a bit loose. semi technical and a bit tight with a big corner and a long straight. 4 very low speed hair pins. about 350m distance.
front setting:-
solid axle front
1' front toe out
-1' chamber
800 shock oil
TM purple spring(second thinnest)
-2mm dro0p
ride hide 7.5mm
rear setting:-
stock diff oil
2.5' toe out
-4' chamber
800 shock oil
Tm green spring(thinnest)
-1mm dro0p
ride hide 8mm
but for now, i need some help to begin with. im suffering from a severe understeer at long right corner exit. same goes the other way round.
if some one could point me the right direction generally maybe can save lots of precious time for testing.
track info: low traction,a bit loose. semi technical and a bit tight with a big corner and a long straight. 4 very low speed hair pins. about 350m distance.
front setting:-
solid axle front
1' front toe out
-1' chamber
800 shock oil
TM purple spring(second thinnest)
-2mm dro0p
ride hide 7.5mm
rear setting:-
stock diff oil
2.5' toe out
-4' chamber
800 shock oil
Tm green spring(thinnest)
-1mm dro0p
ride hide 8mm
Rollcenters F/R
Shock oil seems a little heavy for low traction
Try front diff with 30K and 10K in the rear diff
Are you using swaybars? How are they set?
Wheelbase?
06-16-2009, 11:02 AM
How about your roll centers?
Your rear upper link should be as parallel to the A-arm as possible. This means you may have to remove any shims on the rear upright, under the pivot ball of your link. Also, try to use the roll center positions that will allow the rear link to be the longest. That will lower your rear roll center and hook the rear up.
Try placing your front roll center as high as possible. That will be achieved by leaning the front upper link as much as possible, from outside towards the center of the car. This is the opposite to the rear. The lower end should be at the front bulkhead and not at the steering knuckle. This is done with the offset mounts for the front upper pivot.
Roll centers have a huge impact on how the car handles and it is often overlooked.
Try that and please let me know what you find...
Your rear upper link should be as parallel to the A-arm as possible. This means you may have to remove any shims on the rear upright, under the pivot ball of your link. Also, try to use the roll center positions that will allow the rear link to be the longest. That will lower your rear roll center and hook the rear up.
Try placing your front roll center as high as possible. That will be achieved by leaning the front upper link as much as possible, from outside towards the center of the car. This is the opposite to the rear. The lower end should be at the front bulkhead and not at the steering knuckle. This is done with the offset mounts for the front upper pivot.
Roll centers have a huge impact on how the car handles and it is often overlooked.
Try that and please let me know what you find...
i tried too much setting combination and end up with the stock setting as in the manual. track layout just keep on changing every 2 months and i cant cope with that. with the same setting as above, i use only 1 shim under the pivot ball, all roll bar 0 degree position. its almost parallel to the rear arms, result was a bit twitchy with not much steering drive and some more my rear tire is concaved towards in side. the higher the linkage position on the rear upper brace, while maintaining ride height n camber,the worse it becomes.
for the front part i didnt change much compared to manual,just increased the caster by 1mm.
06-16-2009, 11:14 AM
stock position roll center,
same result when i use diff with that preset.
sway bars 0 degree all round.
i have one mind bobbling thing, solid axle supposed to be good in my application, but most fast local nt1 racer even TQ champion use 1-way front.
06-16-2009, 01:57 PM
Try this:
Tires 37F 42R
Front upper arm mount all the way down
Rear upper arm - no shims on hub, down and in on the inner mount
400wt oil
No rear swaybar
Front swaybar flat
Rear track 200mm
Front track 198mm
If it still feels like it doesn't have enough traction try 35F and 40R tires
Good luck!
Socko
Tires 37F 42R
Front upper arm mount all the way down
Rear upper arm - no shims on hub, down and in on the inner mount
400wt oil
No rear swaybar
Front swaybar flat
Rear track 200mm
Front track 198mm
If it still feels like it doesn't have enough traction try 35F and 40R tires
Good luck!
Socko
06-16-2009, 07:04 PM
hi naz,
seems like you got too much rear grip than front.
try settings that'll reduce yr rear grip and improve the front.
yr track quite similar to mine and i'm also using front spool.
i would try the followings for a start:
shock oil 400 or 500cst with 1.5 rear and 1.6 front springs.
front droop 2 and rear 3 or 4
front toe out 1.5 and rear toe in 2.5 (yr rear setting is toe out???)
tires 37F and 40R
seems like you got too much rear grip than front.
try settings that'll reduce yr rear grip and improve the front.
yr track quite similar to mine and i'm also using front spool.
i would try the followings for a start:
shock oil 400 or 500cst with 1.5 rear and 1.6 front springs.
front droop 2 and rear 3 or 4
front toe out 1.5 and rear toe in 2.5 (yr rear setting is toe out???)
tires 37F and 40R
06-17-2009, 02:05 AM
freestyles-hehe i am yet to test it probably on the 28th of this month(last national race) i will be running rb fuels. the pricing is going to be very good as i heard from my distributor(fuel just came in yesterday), as for performance a friend of mine used this fuel twice when he has competing outside Cyprus and says that is more superior than our plain tornado fuel(i am saying plain because its not even the tornado race blend that we are using...), he had the same performance at lower temperatures, and a little bit more run time(about 5 sec.) and the internals of the engine where well lubricated
probably on the 28th of this month(last national race) i will be running rb fuels. the pricing is going to be very good as i heard from my distributor(fuel just came in yesterday), as for performance a friend of mine used this fuel twice when he has competing outside Cyprus and says that is more superior than our plain tornado fuel(i am saying plain because its not even the tornado race blend that we are using...), he had the same performance at lower temperatures, and a little bit more run time(about 5 sec.) and the internals of the engine where well lubricated
06-17-2009, 04:01 AM
