jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Congrats top ramen, I have been emailing Wolf hobbies back and forth with questions, all that I can say is their customer service is top notch!!!

keep us updated top ramen!

thanks Jason.

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

dont let this G4S thread died! let me bring this up again...

btw, mind sharing the parts/part numbers required for a G4S to use a RS chassis? the rear bits...etc.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

sure, no problem.
G4RS chassis 502319
new rear bracket 502328
upper arm link set 502327
rear back plate 502322
rear lower hinge pins K14139 or can shorten the existing ones.
the old rear lower arms of the G4S will not fit the RS, nor will the old sway bar system, anyone who has already upgraded to the G4+ rear swaybar, and the flying wing arms, everything will be fine.
one thing i have noticed now with the G4JS coming out, is if your chasing some steering, there is a new plastic X bracket for the speedshot front end.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Is this thread slowing down with posts or is it that everyone is just plain busy???

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i think everyone is pretty busy at the moment. most guys in AU are gearing up for their first races this weekend.

razzor

Gansei , what is your opinion on the Orion pressure regulater you using ??
any definate benefits you have noticed ?

Ill be sticking to my G4S for a little while longer and hope to upgrade in a few months.

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

Hey Razzor,
I am fairly sure gansei said it was a kyosho pressure chamber he gave me the model number and I looked it up and wow it was around $70plus so i think I will stick with the mugen PC $13
cheers

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Do those pressure regulators really work? Also would one really notice any performance gain?

~Jay

razzor

with Kyosho buying over Orion they have it in both brands.
I like and understand the idea behind the pressure regulater but like you guys would like to know if there is a noticeable improvement ruuning it.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys heres my delema.

I want to get into serious racing this year.

I currently have a OLD mongoose with a novarossi no electronics.

and a TM G4S with a JLR and electronics.


should I

A) sell the mongoose with engine and pipe for $100 and the G4S as a roller no electronics or JLR for $150 and pay the difference to get a G4RS.

or

B) Sell the Mongoose with its engine, keep the G4S and JLR and race that.

or

C) sell everything and look for a G4+ some where if someoen still has one, new of course.

I have the money and selling the 2 cars wouldnt phase me,and i heard the g4RS is a completely different chassis from the g4s so it wouldnt make sense to keep the g4s with the g4rs.

is the g4RS a completely new car and a better performer than the g4s? I saw that the g4rs didnt have the lockable one way bearing in the front and had a diff....ewwww.

anyways I have been out of the r/c scene since august and I need some advice.

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

it depends on how serious you want to get, most of the G4S parts will go on the RS, you could keep the G4S as a backup car and get into the RS with the JLR evo 3 combo now that should win some races 4 u its then down to skill and car setup. I would probably get rid of the mongoose.
thats just what i would do but everyone is different.
good luck!

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

ok , firstly get rid of that mongoose. parts are so different to the G4S .
now if you like your G4S , keep it. if it still has the 3mm chassis, stick with it
i would recommend getting the new rear brace for that the shock tower screws onto. and the new rear top arm links and rear hubs. you will find this will improve the G4S . at least your sticking with something familiar to you and its not that much of an expense to upgrade some bits. you can always add the gearing on to the G4S from the RS (plastic pullies) just need a front spool /oneway for a ED trans if you dont like the diff. you can buy the front speedshot seperately in bits, bulkheads, upper bracket and x bracket (the G4JS now has a plastic one) so this cost will also be cheaper. for the cost of your mongoose, you could change the G4S quite a bit if done with some investigation of parts availability. come to think of it, that mongoose one way could come in handy, as the G4RS has the plastic pulley for the ED trans to fit it. so many ways you can look at it

keavze

hmm, that sounds interesting.

do you happen to have the part numbers required to do what you've mentioned?

btw, in what ways will it improve the G4S?

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

go back a couple of pages and the part numbers are there I am sure Patto put a post in with the part numbers to up grade the g4s with the new rear setup/g4rs, adding the new rear setup just gives you more adjustability in the car (stiff or soft, chassis roll) thru the rear sway bar as the old setup(sway bar) didnt work so well, you also get low flying wing arms better aero dynamic profile and they look awesome as well.
good luck

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

dont get me wrong here, im all for TM improving the product, but.....
low traction or med to high, the G4S is a very well equipped car. i would go back to it, but i got the G4+ instead. i wouldnt worry so much about the RS chassis if you are running a 3mm G4S chassis. i would keep the old arms on the car also. they are not as fragile as the flying wing arms. now the old sway bar, ......... while it may not be as stiff as one would like for a high traction track, most guys would be running on med to low traction tracks. this swaybar setup is definatley better in this regard. plus you have the ability to adjust the rear tweak with the old bar. if i had my time all over again. i would be buying a G4S and make some changes with the new parts available now. speed shot and ED a must. but now with all the older option gears also coming back into the equation, the ED isnt a must but would need to be running the ED pinions. 17/22.