Team Magic G4
02-03-2006, 06:54 PM
#497
No problem 
02-04-2006, 07:15 AM
#498
Reactor, thanks! I thought my old all-silver G4 is the coolest, but yours is wow.
Looks like a Silver Arrow - McLaren Mercedes to me
Looks like a Silver Arrow - McLaren Mercedes to me
02-04-2006, 04:40 PM
#499
Originally Posted by daniz24
Reactor, thanks! I thought my old all-silver G4 is the coolest, but yours is wow.
Looks like a Silver Arrow - McLaren Mercedes to me
Looks like a Silver Arrow - McLaren Mercedes to me
and yes the g4s is wow, yesterday i was at JP tracks (the only indoor touring in the country)using my evo and run for the 1st time, its a very aggresive tracks, huge and lots of traction i did a good run for the whole 4 tanks and on the 5th tank i think i went to the limit flew car 4ft in the air and hit a steel post 
BROKE FRONT LOW ARM! but the rest of the car is tough! now im having 2nd thoughts of running my S, too pretty to get scratches i may put it in the cabinet for display
02-06-2006, 09:42 AM
#500
Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Pre Nats
Sedan Nats
Great Lakes
All Vegas big Races
Most of Rev's Big Races
Regionals
All the above at least.
Sedan Nats
Great Lakes
All Vegas big Races
Most of Rev's Big Races
Regionals
All the above at least.
02-06-2006, 10:30 AM
#501
Originally Posted by MCRUZ
Brad, are u going to drive the new g4s too?
02-06-2006, 11:02 AM
#502
But wish he was !!! lol.... Nice kit though huh Brad??? If it all translates to the track things will be great! Building mine now.... can't wait to get er done!
02-07-2006, 05:54 AM
#504
The engine is an SH .15 rear exhaust. I couldn't find the specs on the engine when I tried once. However I will look again but needing under 1hp should ok. I ty to find it again for you and post if I find it.
Sam
Sam
02-07-2006, 06:22 AM
#505
REACTOR: i accidentally opened one and look at it now in just 14 hours... TADANG!!! 
6-hour sleep included i'm racing it on friday so gotta run it tomorrow or on thursday to find the right set-up im starting of at the standard set-up but i will be using 15,000wt diff oil 
Motorman: i kinda have a binding on the rear, i have done all my means in eliminating it but it is still there. is it okay to grind the arms with a 1/8 drill bit? other than that, the G4S is aweSSSSome
6-hour sleep included i'm racing it on friday so gotta run it tomorrow or on thursday to find the right set-up im starting of at the standard set-up but i will be using 15,000wt diff oil Motorman: i kinda have a binding on the rear, i have done all my means in eliminating it but it is still there. is it okay to grind the arms with a 1/8 drill bit? other than that, the G4S is aweSSSSome
Last edited by rbboy; 02-07-2006 at 06:33 AM.
02-07-2006, 07:19 AM
#506
Tech Adept
RB boy
first take the upper links off. and see if the lower arms are tight if they are loosen the bulkheads at the chassis and the top shock tower bracket. re tighten the tower bracket down and then the bulkheads. this should free up the lower arms. If the upper link is the culprit you can remove the outer ball and mount it in a drill and polish it with scotchbrite or fine wet or dry 125 grit paper and reinstall the ball cup. do this until the ball friction is reduced and the ball cup is free on the ball. If the lowers have a little drag they will free up after a couple runs.
RB on another note use the outer upper position on the camber link and the lower inner position when using foam tires and start with 3 full degrees of rear camber and maybe 2 degrees toe in to start. Some feedback I recieved was 10,000 to 15,000 is about right. as far as springs you may find kit silver springs pretty neutral, but if you want to get more agressive change to an aqua front and a pink rear and if the car develops a little push try standing the rear bar up to free the rear of the car up. (make sure you provide enough clearance between the sway rear bar ends so they don't bind together in the socket) This is why the bar socket (silver) changed and is alot deeper now than before as this was a bad problem on the prior car. You really need to pay attention to this as if it binds the car will go instantly loose when it binds up and it will drive you crazy hunting setup.
I put a car together for another guy yesterday and I think I hold the record at 6 hours. I was ready to drop dead afterwards 
Bundy
the spec's will be over 1 hp, does it make that? I have no Idea.
Sorry I've been away a while, Its been a little nuts recently dealing with dealer orders and trying to get the team ready for the winternats
first take the upper links off. and see if the lower arms are tight if they are loosen the bulkheads at the chassis and the top shock tower bracket. re tighten the tower bracket down and then the bulkheads. this should free up the lower arms. If the upper link is the culprit you can remove the outer ball and mount it in a drill and polish it with scotchbrite or fine wet or dry 125 grit paper and reinstall the ball cup. do this until the ball friction is reduced and the ball cup is free on the ball. If the lowers have a little drag they will free up after a couple runs.
RB on another note use the outer upper position on the camber link and the lower inner position when using foam tires and start with 3 full degrees of rear camber and maybe 2 degrees toe in to start. Some feedback I recieved was 10,000 to 15,000 is about right. as far as springs you may find kit silver springs pretty neutral, but if you want to get more agressive change to an aqua front and a pink rear and if the car develops a little push try standing the rear bar up to free the rear of the car up. (make sure you provide enough clearance between the sway rear bar ends so they don't bind together in the socket) This is why the bar socket (silver) changed and is alot deeper now than before as this was a bad problem on the prior car. You really need to pay attention to this as if it binds the car will go instantly loose when it binds up and it will drive you crazy hunting setup.
I put a car together for another guy yesterday and I think I hold the record at 6 hours. I was ready to drop dead afterwards
Bundy
the spec's will be over 1 hp, does it make that? I have no Idea.
Sorry I've been away a while, Its been a little nuts recently dealing with dealer orders and trying to get the team ready for the winternats
02-07-2006, 11:18 AM
#507
Just studying the manual before building.
Found a printing error
Set Up & Tuning 15 Gear Ratio:
Basic Set Up: 1st 19/56T 2nd 24/46T
1st gear spurs are 50/51/52, not 56
Found a printing error
Set Up & Tuning 15 Gear Ratio:
Basic Set Up: 1st 19/56T 2nd 24/46T
1st gear spurs are 50/51/52, not 56
02-07-2006, 06:11 PM
#508
SH Engine!
Originally Posted by Motorman2
RB boy
first take the upper links off. and see if the lower arms are tight if they are loosen the bulkheads at the chassis and the top shock tower bracket. re tighten the tower bracket down and then the bulkheads. this should free up the lower arms. If the upper link is the culprit you can remove the outer ball and mount it in a drill and polish it with scotchbrite or fine wet or dry 125 grit paper and reinstall the ball cup. do this until the ball friction is reduced and the ball cup is free on the ball. If the lowers have a little drag they will free up after a couple runs.
RB on another note use the outer upper position on the camber link and the lower inner position when using foam tires and start with 3 full degrees of rear camber and maybe 2 degrees toe in to start. Some feedback I recieved was 10,000 to 15,000 is about right. as far as springs you may find kit silver springs pretty neutral, but if you want to get more agressive change to an aqua front and a pink rear and if the car develops a little push try standing the rear bar up to free the rear of the car up. (make sure you provide enough clearance between the sway rear bar ends so they don't bind together in the socket) This is why the bar socket (silver) changed and is alot deeper now than before as this was a bad problem on the prior car. You really need to pay attention to this as if it binds the car will go instantly loose when it binds up and it will drive you crazy hunting setup.
I put a car together for another guy yesterday and I think I hold the record at 6 hours. I was ready to drop dead afterwards
Bundy
the spec's will be over 1 hp, does it make that? I have no Idea.
Sorry I've been away a while, Its been a little nuts recently dealing with dealer orders and trying to get the team ready for the winternats
first take the upper links off. and see if the lower arms are tight if they are loosen the bulkheads at the chassis and the top shock tower bracket. re tighten the tower bracket down and then the bulkheads. this should free up the lower arms. If the upper link is the culprit you can remove the outer ball and mount it in a drill and polish it with scotchbrite or fine wet or dry 125 grit paper and reinstall the ball cup. do this until the ball friction is reduced and the ball cup is free on the ball. If the lowers have a little drag they will free up after a couple runs.
RB on another note use the outer upper position on the camber link and the lower inner position when using foam tires and start with 3 full degrees of rear camber and maybe 2 degrees toe in to start. Some feedback I recieved was 10,000 to 15,000 is about right. as far as springs you may find kit silver springs pretty neutral, but if you want to get more agressive change to an aqua front and a pink rear and if the car develops a little push try standing the rear bar up to free the rear of the car up. (make sure you provide enough clearance between the sway rear bar ends so they don't bind together in the socket) This is why the bar socket (silver) changed and is alot deeper now than before as this was a bad problem on the prior car. You really need to pay attention to this as if it binds the car will go instantly loose when it binds up and it will drive you crazy hunting setup.
I put a car together for another guy yesterday and I think I hold the record at 6 hours. I was ready to drop dead afterwards
Bundy
the spec's will be over 1 hp, does it make that? I have no Idea.
Sorry I've been away a while, Its been a little nuts recently dealing with dealer orders and trying to get the team ready for the winternats
That would then make it an expensive changeover by having to ditch the SH for something that meets the club rules
BB
02-07-2006, 08:14 PM
#510
I will contribute this to the SH .15 engine HP question. Most engines like this will only produce 27 to 30k. A similar OS engine and a couple of other showed only .68 to .75 HP. I would say this engine would fit club rules. This is the best I could fine from other sites. SH site does not give the information. I tried!
Sam
Sam