razzor

Great result guys !!!
I ahve nats in 2 weeks ,so this is my first event of teh new year as first club was missed due to me taking part in teh 1st round of teh off raod nats.

Really looking forward to it and am hyped up about it .
Car is stripped and getting rebuilt to make sure everything is OK.

looking to get a mugen rear roll bar or possibly use a Serpent 2.2mm or 2.4mm.
Opinions for the roll bar stiffness is welcome.
Do I start with the stiffer or or softer one ?

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

10 cars in total, so was a full grid for the final.

gansei

hi G4S users!

i had hardships in today running.

corner-in response is some slow.

and on-throttle understeer is happen.

i frequently changed Shock setting. But i could not solve it.

my diff setting is front 50000wt and rear 40000wt.

i want to know that the very easy setting to solve on-throttle understeer.

ickvanovs

is there any difference in function between the standard g4s anti squat and the mod style?

btw does anyone know if we can put RRR rear arm and hub in g4s?
if it fit i guess we can eliminate the use of drill in rear arm
however we need to stock different parts for rear arm and hub

royfan33

iTrader: (8)

The first thing that seems off to me is the rear diff w/40,000wt. I run 10-20k and have great on-throttle response. Its hard to diagnose without the rest of the setup, but I think the 40K rear diff is going to slow rotation of the car.

razzor

The 40k rear might be a contributing factor.
We found the sweet spot to be 50k front and 30k rear ,thanks to advice from Muppet.
Have you tried moving the caster forward ?

casimirsa

I took the plunge to Buy a G4S! To say the least I am very pleased with the quality!
Having driven a Serpent 200mm previously there is one technical detail that has been "bugging" me since day one!

I am running all my cars with 2 hole pistons in the front and three holes on the rear schocks with 40 / 35 oils (Serpent or GS)

I notice that most of the people drill the G4S schocks pistons to 1.2 / 1.3 mm and use 60 oil. If they use Associated that is understandable, becasue it is thinner than other oils, but to use the same piston configuration front and rear and still the same oil on top of that is what i might call odd!

Can anybody please shed some light on this for me please?

scarlet

I have a G4s for sale, pm me if interested.

Serpentd

?? ?? Dude, are you runing the G4S??? Or an older version. I don't understand what you mean by the "two big nuts"?

Serpentd

This has confused me as well. Every car I have ever run as far as onroad goes would have the two holes up front and three holes in the rear. I haven't had a chance to run my G4S yet, but when I ran my S720 I would run 50 weight Serpent oil all the way around. This is for a smoother track of coarse. 60 weight would be too stiff. I am personally going to start with 50 weight up front and 40 in the rear with the 2 1.3mm holes in both front and rear. And I will use the Serpent shock oil. I don't like the Associated for onroad use. Just my preferance. I know this didn't answer your question, but your not the only one out there scratching their head on this shock set up deal. Hopefully someone can clue us in a little better.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Using the car with the 2 hole pistons that have been drilled, seems to give the car excellent rear grip and with that it means you can give more grip to the front which will increase corner speed.

For a while last year I ran with the front pistons drilled with just one of the holes larger. Once I got better at setting up the rear of the car, I found I had enough grip to drill the second hole on the front pistons.

Cheers,

Mike.

Serpentd

As everyone here should know I haven't ran my G4S yet because of weather conditions. However I ran S720 for one race (4 days). So this is why I refer to it often.

Gensei, I think your diff oils are off. Too thick in rear. I had my S720 with 30K in the rear and 100K in the front. Handleing was very good for turns. I think you should go to 30K rear for starters and maybe even 20k, then maybe go to 60K up front. But one thing at a time of coarse to note the changes. So try 30 K in rear for starters.

For more initial turn in, give your front tires some toe out. Around 1/2-1 degree toe OUT on EACH side. Start with 1/2 first. This will give you better initial turn in.

If you already have toe out, then try to give the rear toe less of the toe in. If you are at 3 degrees toe in on the rear, go to 2.5 degrees toe in. Or if you are at 2.5 now, go to 2.0 degrees etc. This will give you better turn in and better straight away speed. However you might loose a little bit of rear traction through corners if you go too much and a little less stable on the straights as well if you go too much. So like you already know, one small step at a time.

Also, are you running a 2mm split on your tires for proper overdrive? This can make quite a difference too. Something to double check.

You could also change your caster by putting more shims behind the front upper A arms. Again...a little at a time. This should help with initial turn in, but you might loose on power steering if you go too much. It's about finding that balance of all the adjustments working together.

I would start with the diffs first. then toe out on the front or less toe in on the rear. and then caster changes last. It's hard to tell you exactly without knowing all the set up info you currently have on you car. Including tire shore, tire overdrive (diameter) and track conditions.

Good luck, and hope this helps more then hinders you. Ask away if you need to my friend. Later bro!

Serpentd

ZOOM, that all makes sence, thank you. What oil weights and brand are you using in the front and rear? I have about every oil manufacturer out there, other then TM. So I don't know if TM is thicker like the Serpent oil, or more like the Losi and Associated stuff. So if you are using 50 weight TM oil, is that close to 50 weight Serpent or Mugen oil? Thanks you for helping get this clarified for me and some others. I appreciate it very much! Later bro!

Serpentd

Dude, as far as the rear sway bar, that's a good question. It depends on certain track conditions and the tire shore you will end up with. I usually start out with a stiffer rear sway bar setting and work around that.

The only time I really needed to go to a softer setting was when the grip was high on sharper corners and would traction roll. This is when I would go to a softer setting on the rear sway bar to let the car have a little bit of roll or give so to speak to avoid traction rolling.

So I would recommend the stiffer sway bar, or go to a middle of the road sway bar if they make it. For example: If there are three choices, 2.1...2.2...and 2.3, I would start with the 2.2 and go from their. All of my cars have a "blade" style rear sway bar, so don't really know the options you have. In fact, I plan on trying some other manufactures blade sway bar on the G4S to see if it works. The G4S kit sway bar feels like a very soft metal to be used as a rear sway bar. Way softer then both Serpent and Mugen. But not sure if this will even give the results as the full sway bar mod you are talking about. I hope this helps you out somewhat razzor.

By the way, what are you running as far as off road? You mentioned the off road Nats, so I was curious what you ran? Anyway, good luck my friend!

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

hmm, its hard to explain, well, its the steering block where we have 2 big silver nut, at the place we tune our tire width. coz some1 told me to lock it until it doesn't move, but i found that locking it too much (still some tiny movement), it is not very nice to drive, corner in is big sometimes.