Team Magic G4
01-22-2007, 08:29 AM
#3511
GR tuned RER12 S3
let's give an limitation of movie!
My GR tuned RER12 S3 engine movie
http://see.daum.net/clip/ClipViewBig...d=nlOaeV1v5Ks$
My GR tuned RER12 S3 engine movie
http://see.daum.net/clip/ClipViewBig...d=nlOaeV1v5Ks$
01-22-2007, 12:09 PM
#3512
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
how about the '2 speed' only?
i saw serpent car few weeks ago and the 2 speed works really well.
if its the same i would like to give it a try
i saw serpent car few weeks ago and the 2 speed works really well.
if its the same i would like to give it a try
01-22-2007, 03:09 PM
#3513
A bit OT but can anyone shed some light on the TM 1/8 Shock racer? Local Hobby shop is doing them on special but I cannot find much info on them online. Was looking at getting into affordable 1/8 onroad racing. Seen the car is half the price of the Serpent it looked like a good entry level circuit racer.
01-22-2007, 03:58 PM
#3514
Originally Posted by Teehomo
Gave my new G4S its first run on a track yesterday - no racing, just an open day our club runs as the first meet every year. I used the same setup as my G4Evo and this really highlighted the difference between the two cars. Where the Evo pushed the S was very loose on power. Looks like I may need to add back some front droop and mybe add some camber at the rear. Perhaps stiffen up the front springs or soften the rear as well.
Unfortunately, the conditions were pretty extreme and did not really encourage any tinkering. The air temperature was 41 celsius and the track was reading 65c. In the end I retreated with everyone else to the clubhouse for a cold beer in air conditioned comfort.
Anyway, it was good to finally get the new car out of the house and onto the track. I went for a new colour scheme this year - nothing fancy but I tried to match in with the TM colours. Can't wait for the next meet in a fortnight.
Unfortunately, the conditions were pretty extreme and did not really encourage any tinkering. The air temperature was 41 celsius and the track was reading 65c. In the end I retreated with everyone else to the clubhouse for a cold beer in air conditioned comfort.
Anyway, it was good to finally get the new car out of the house and onto the track. I went for a new colour scheme this year - nothing fancy but I tried to match in with the TM colours. Can't wait for the next meet in a fortnight.
nice paint scheme..... its great to see care taken in the display of new up-coming cars!
01-22-2007, 04:52 PM
#3515
Originally Posted by Coopz
A bit OT but can anyone shed some light on the TM 1/8 Shock racer? Local Hobby shop is doing them on special but I cannot find much info on them online. Was looking at getting into affordable 1/8 onroad racing. Seen the car is half the price of the Serpent it looked like a good entry level circuit racer.
01-22-2007, 06:52 PM
#3516
Shocks
Hi All,
I have also drilled all shock pistons to 1.3mm.
I have heard of 1.2mm up to 1.5 (!!!)
The thing is, the oil does flow through larger holes much better and you get a more consistant operation I think.
Although, be careful. When you assemble the pistons onto the shafts, make sure you don't cover your niceley drilled out holes with the small washers that fit onto the shafts next to the pistons. This will block some of the oil which should flow through your piston holes.
I found I had to grind down the O/D of these washers so as they did not cover the holes.
Menace
I have also drilled all shock pistons to 1.3mm.
I have heard of 1.2mm up to 1.5 (!!!)
The thing is, the oil does flow through larger holes much better and you get a more consistant operation I think.
Although, be careful. When you assemble the pistons onto the shafts, make sure you don't cover your niceley drilled out holes with the small washers that fit onto the shafts next to the pistons. This will block some of the oil which should flow through your piston holes.
I found I had to grind down the O/D of these washers so as they did not cover the holes.
Menace
01-22-2007, 07:04 PM
#3517
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hi All,
I have also drilled all shock pistons to 1.3mm.
I have heard of 1.2mm up to 1.5 (!!!)
The thing is, the oil does flow through larger holes much better and you get a more consistant operation I think.
Although, be careful. When you assemble the pistons onto the shafts, make sure you don't cover your niceley drilled out holes with the small washers that fit onto the shafts next to the pistons. This will block some of the oil which should flow through your piston holes.
I found I had to grind down the O/D of these washers so as they did not cover the holes.
Menace
I have also drilled all shock pistons to 1.3mm.
I have heard of 1.2mm up to 1.5 (!!!)
The thing is, the oil does flow through larger holes much better and you get a more consistant operation I think.
Although, be careful. When you assemble the pistons onto the shafts, make sure you don't cover your niceley drilled out holes with the small washers that fit onto the shafts next to the pistons. This will block some of the oil which should flow through your piston holes.
I found I had to grind down the O/D of these washers so as they did not cover the holes.
Menace
By the way, congrats on your new bundle of joy!!!!! 
Later
01-22-2007, 07:28 PM
#3518
Menace,
I could not find a 1.3mm drill so used a 1.5mm to open up both holes. I used 40wt shock old but am thinking I may need to go higher to compensate for the larger holes - the shocks feel a bit springy at the moment. Perhaps 60wt? It is still summer here and can be a bit warm - I've heard that oil can thin out a bit in warmer weather. Not sure whether this is true but it seems to make sense to me.
I could not find a 1.3mm drill so used a 1.5mm to open up both holes. I used 40wt shock old but am thinking I may need to go higher to compensate for the larger holes - the shocks feel a bit springy at the moment. Perhaps 60wt? It is still summer here and can be a bit warm - I've heard that oil can thin out a bit in warmer weather. Not sure whether this is true but it seems to make sense to me.
01-22-2007, 08:05 PM
#3519
Originally Posted by Teehomo
Menace,
It is still summer here and can be a bit warm - I've heard that oil can thin out a bit in warmer weather. Not sure whether this is true but it seems to make sense to me.
It is still summer here and can be a bit warm - I've heard that oil can thin out a bit in warmer weather. Not sure whether this is true but it seems to make sense to me.
01-22-2007, 08:55 PM
#3520
Hey Guys,
Need your experience in the setup fo the UFO clucth setting for the G4S Kit.
Ok i have, spoken to a good freind online and is helping me out heaps. We basically got the clutch float to 0.6mm last night, then went down to my LHS to get more shims as the 6 i got in the G4S kit i had used up on the Clutch bell side.
As i went to get more shims for the thrust bearing, the guy over the counter inspected and changed the shims i had used, he basically said that you dont need anymore than 6 to do this part.
What we did last was get the Clutch bell to drag only just, now this is 0 offset as i was told and the help i got is of an experinced driver. Then he told me to make up a set of shims to be set at 0.6mm to get correct clutch gap float.
Once i got this gap on the clutch bell side, we need more for ther thrust bearing, this is where i had to stop and go down the LHS to get more. As before mentioned at the start, they guy there said i no need no more shims, as he altered the ones i had already.
He was like, you gotta get the bell close enough before you get drag...
From all your experince guys, what settings you use, how many shims, requirred and what technique do you use....!
The person i am working with i do trust his knowledge, thou cant understand why i went to the LHS, to get a whole differant answer....
Useful tips and images would be super to guide me and others in the future!
The spring in the kit - Yellow
The shims in total - 6
Clutch Type - UFO
Regards
Frankie
Need your experience in the setup fo the UFO clucth setting for the G4S Kit.
Ok i have, spoken to a good freind online and is helping me out heaps. We basically got the clutch float to 0.6mm last night, then went down to my LHS to get more shims as the 6 i got in the G4S kit i had used up on the Clutch bell side.
As i went to get more shims for the thrust bearing, the guy over the counter inspected and changed the shims i had used, he basically said that you dont need anymore than 6 to do this part.
What we did last was get the Clutch bell to drag only just, now this is 0 offset as i was told and the help i got is of an experinced driver. Then he told me to make up a set of shims to be set at 0.6mm to get correct clutch gap float.
Once i got this gap on the clutch bell side, we need more for ther thrust bearing, this is where i had to stop and go down the LHS to get more. As before mentioned at the start, they guy there said i no need no more shims, as he altered the ones i had already.
He was like, you gotta get the bell close enough before you get drag...
From all your experince guys, what settings you use, how many shims, requirred and what technique do you use....!
The person i am working with i do trust his knowledge, thou cant understand why i went to the LHS, to get a whole differant answer....
Useful tips and images would be super to guide me and others in the future!
The spring in the kit - Yellow
The shims in total - 6
Clutch Type - UFO
Regards
Frankie
01-22-2007, 09:06 PM
#3521
for u to be saying this i take as u got ur engine and u will be racing this weekend, wats the compression like on it
01-22-2007, 09:21 PM
#3522
Hi all,
Kodak, here is a good article on setting up UFO clutch..
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
I adjusted according to the article and will give it a try when my radio arrives
Later
Kodak, here is a good article on setting up UFO clutch..
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
I adjusted according to the article and will give it a try when my radio arrives
Later
01-22-2007, 10:23 PM
#3523
Kodak the link Asil gave will help you understand the procedure and what you are adjusting.Id suggest assembling and stripping the clutch a few times to get the idea.Sort of like practice.
This is a important tuning area and if you understand it ,it will help a lot with the performance of the car and engine combo.
What I have noticed is that you dont have to go for a large clutch gap especially with the harder 1.8mm clutch spring.I have changed from a .7mm gap to .5 and the car is as punchy out of the corners.I would recommend the black 1.8mm clutch spring though ,just seems to work better.
Dont worry about how many shims is needed ,it varies from engine to engine.
I would suggest starting with .5mm clutch gap ,set this with out the inner clutch bearing ,when set put in inner clutch bearing and set end float to .1mm or just a slight play so the clutch bell doesnt feel tight.The clutch spring I would suggest starting of with 1mm of thread protruding on the threaded collar.
See what the car does from there and you could fine tune the setup at the track.
This is a important tuning area and if you understand it ,it will help a lot with the performance of the car and engine combo.
What I have noticed is that you dont have to go for a large clutch gap especially with the harder 1.8mm clutch spring.I have changed from a .7mm gap to .5 and the car is as punchy out of the corners.I would recommend the black 1.8mm clutch spring though ,just seems to work better.
Dont worry about how many shims is needed ,it varies from engine to engine.
I would suggest starting with .5mm clutch gap ,set this with out the inner clutch bearing ,when set put in inner clutch bearing and set end float to .1mm or just a slight play so the clutch bell doesnt feel tight.The clutch spring I would suggest starting of with 1mm of thread protruding on the threaded collar.
See what the car does from there and you could fine tune the setup at the track.
01-23-2007, 12:34 AM
#3524
Kodak my friend. Take razzors advice and practice a few times so you "understand" the why more..... then the how will make sence. Hell even after racing for 8 years and taking a year off, I had to scratch my head and take the time to remember the clutch setup. It's simple after you understand it, but getting there can be a horror show sometimes. Especially with 4 people telling you "their" way of doing it, and you have 4 different ways. Plus clutch tuning is SO important on how your car handles, it's definately something you need to learn. Take your time and be patient, plus with your attention to detail that is so evedent, you'll do fine. It's not something you learn overnight. Keep us all posted. You know we're all here for you! Good luck bro! 
Plus clutch tuning is SO important on how your car handles, it's definately something you need to learn. Take your time and be patient, plus with your attention to detail that is so evedent, you'll do fine. It's not something you learn overnight. Keep us all posted. You know we're all here for you! Good luck bro!
