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Old 07-28-2004, 10:27 AM
  #6466  
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do you guys know if the evo4's shaft and related hardware will fit the evo3? if not, would you know of any aftermarket "floating" shaft drive system for the evo3 (similar to the TC3) ? thanks for any info
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:38 AM
  #6467  
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Originally posted by marvi
do you guys know if the evo4's shaft and related hardware will fit the evo3? if not, would you know of any aftermarket "floating" shaft drive system for the evo3 (similar to the TC3) ? thanks for any info
no it won't fit. i think tech made a 3 piece shaft for the evo3 but it's long out of production and you cannot find it for sale anywhere.
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Old 07-28-2004, 10:45 AM
  #6468  
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I have a customed made spool on my evoIII - run 19T full speed of 140' straight then hit the brake, nothing breaks!!!!!
if you shim your diff/one-way/spool correctly, no strip gears.....
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:04 AM
  #6469  
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Default Re: Re: one way

Originally posted by hierog


also, how did you get the bearing to sit in the front plastic center piece? CA glue

Yes, CA glue. Just make sure not to get any glue in the bearing! Happened to me once!
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Old 07-28-2004, 11:53 AM
  #6470  
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I apologize if this has been asked before, but I am a complete newbie to this thread so please forgive me if it has.

Has anyone else had problems with the shock shaft guides being extremely delicate? I have the TRF Fluorine Shocks mounted on my Losi XXX-S and have found that one good crash will pretty much destroy the shaft guide as well as the piston (since I have them drilled out with a #56 bit).

Has anyone else noticed this problem and is there a solution?

Thank you!!!
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Old 07-28-2004, 12:52 PM
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I've never had a problem with the TRF shocks. The guides do wear out over time...like in many months. I know that you are using these shocks for a losi and you are drilling the pistons out. You never mention how many piston holes you are using. Have you tried using the three hole pistons? Also, are you only using spacers in the shocks to limit downtravel? If that is the case, any crash that pushes the suspension down will transfer a huge amount of energy to the shock guides and piston. On a Tamiya car, downtravel is set with droop screws so in the event of a wreck, the screws will prevent the shocks from over extending themselves.
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Old 07-28-2004, 01:06 PM
  #6472  
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I'm using the three hole pistons drilled out. I will probably not drill them anymore, and go to a lighter oil, however, that will still not solve my rod guide problem.

I don't remember if I'm using spacers to limit down travel at this point. I might be using the stock black o-rings. The shocks are mounted in different locations on the PRP Towers and I'm using the eyelets to adjust droop.

I *think* I see what you're saying about the shocks being bashed at full length as that would create a longer lever arm and transfer more of the impact to parts in question. Perhaps using the shocks at a lower mounting hole with more internal spacers and thus a shorter effective length would help, though it will also make the shock quite a bit stiffer.

Still, I tend to wonder if the impact at full length is truely the only cause of the problem. Has anyone else had problems with the rod guides?

Thanks!!!
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Old 07-28-2004, 02:19 PM
  #6473  
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Also if you break an arm, the shock is the only thing supporting the parts dangling. The bushing at the bottom is the last part to take up the slack in the accident.
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Old 07-28-2004, 02:48 PM
  #6474  
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Hey...Will the TB-Evo1 drive pinions work in my Evo3 SL?

I belive the cars have the same final drive ratio

I gotta get the new 53686 Main shaft & some new bevel pinions and Tower has the shaft and Evo1 pinions
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Old 07-28-2004, 02:58 PM
  #6475  
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BTW: I recently got the 53440 spring set...

Can anyone tell me if this is the long or short set

Thanks
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Old 07-28-2004, 07:03 PM
  #6476  
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Default Re: Re: one way

Originally posted by hierog
how did you get the bearing to sit in the front plastic center piece? CA glue
Put the plastic bit so that the bearing goes in from the REAR.

Bearing then can't fly out forwards in a smack.


If the 1260 bearing is excessively floppy I shim it with a little bit
of masking tape on the outside until its a snug fit. About 5-10mm
(yellow Tamiya tape) is enough.
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Old 07-28-2004, 07:09 PM
  #6477  
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Originally posted by The Black Kat
Hey...Will the TB-Evo1 drive pinions work in my Evo3 SL?

I belive the cars have the same final drive ratio
Same drive ratio but the bevel & spur are both bigger in EvoI/II.
They are TGR/TG10R ball diff parts. Also the bevel does not sit
in a 1280 bearing, its the shaft that sits on a 1150 bearing.

EvoIII came out with its own special gears.
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Old 07-28-2004, 07:12 PM
  #6478  
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Does anyone know anywhere (not R10) where I can get both the longer shaft AND the bevel pinions

and does anyone know anything about which spring set I have?
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:01 AM
  #6479  
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Originally posted by jeffreylin
no it won't fit. i think tech made a 3 piece shaft for the evo3 but it's long out of production and you cannot find it for sale anywhere.
thanks for the info ive also asked in our lhs and theyre having difficulty locating the tech racing shaft - so this explains it. oh well, i think ill just take my chances with the stock drivetrain components and hope that the gears dont strip too often i ran 2 battery packs a while ago and after a couple of crashes, the gears seem to be holding up.
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Old 07-29-2004, 01:33 AM
  #6480  
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Originally posted by The Black Kat
Does anyone know anywhere (not R10) where I can get both the longer shaft AND the bevel pinions
try eBay for the shaft, appears occasionally.
There was rumour that Tamiya ever only made 1 production run
of the skinny shaft but have not found any confirmation of that yet.

The bevel pinions gotta be bought with the diff gear only.
They don't sell them separately.
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