TJ

Ha guys what part number to I ask for for the new one way gear and the 2mm longer shaft. Also how did you find the parts page at rainbow I have been to the site many times but I have difficulty finding what stock they have.

fat500

iTrader: (51)

has anyone tried shimming the susp. blocks to get more caster? I need more on-power steering in my evo III. Any other ideas. I run the box set-up with blue springs at all 4's. Thanks, FAT

XCRAZYBENX

THE PART NUMBER FOR THE NEW SHAFT IS 53686. THEY ARE PRETTY REASONABLY PRICED IG GOT MINE FOR 16 CANADIAN.

Ooj

Hey Trev

there is no new part number for the new gears. It is the same as before. The problem now is to find a place that sells the new type gears - I think peter grayson got his batch from rainbow ten

GundamWZero

iTrader: (4)

So, who actually raced their Evo? I bought an TB-Evo III from a German hobby store. The previous owner has bought the option chassis, shaft, motor mount,and enough parts to build two cars! I built a one-way diff yesterday for the car (in case I want to throw it in one day), dug around the box and found enough parts for another one way diff! So, I started building the SECOND EVO III! Came across a tiny problem though, some of the parts didn't have a extra (like the ball bearings for the steering linkage), so I'll pay my hobby store a little visit for some parts to complete the second car. I have the first Evo setup with ball diffs, front and rear sway bars (don't need them though) and a modified motor layout (Trinity D5 9T single, 37T pinion and 88 spur, and Trinity 3300 NiMH Vis- Extra Matched cells).The second Evo may be just stock (Trinity P2K Pro2, 3000 NiMH cells) or I'll try to see if I can turn it into a rally car. I am trying to locate a track here in Germany to race against. We have a small course here on post (built on a rubber cork surface, tennis court), but it has hardly no traction, but it is good for drifting though!

stumper

iTrader: (2)

I got mine from speedtechrc.com. I also recieved some of the older gears from another store today(stocking up) and the packages are the same execpt on the top right hand side where it reads "250" there is a star next to it. On the older gears there is some sort of japanese symbol.

DJB

iTrader: (17)

hey guys alittle of target but when u assemble the evo 3 you get a choice of a part called J3. if u run stick packs u have to run it one way and if u have saddles the other way. i currently run sticks and am looking to buy only 1 saddle. ive looked at the part and if i reversed J3 it looks like id hit the servo. is this because my servo is too big(s3003 futaba) or do u guys have ne advice. pictures would be a help to.

thanks

djb

The Black Kat

Chop the triangle shaped tabs off that part...I did that and now I can fit an IPCv7.1 &, JR XS300 & a standard JR racing servo (not the smallest electronics)

You might have to drill out a hole where the motor brush may hang out a bit

My first upgrade is probably gonna be the alluminum upper deck supports

WC

iTrader: (28)

That "castle wall" piece will fit fine with the bump on the motor's side. The S3003 (that's what I got) fits perfectly in there like that, its a perfect fit for the 2 holes in the chassis too.

I just fitted a new castle wall to the blue car I was reassembling last night... didn't have to cut anything off. Some cut the protruding tabs flush but only if you need more room for your ESC/RX. S3003 fits fine and just clears the tabs.

WC

iTrader: (28)

Don't bother.

Am running everything from (1) plastic castle wall, (2) nothing "commando" , (3) Tech nylon T-bar, (4) alloy I-beams.... can't tell ANY major effect from any of them.

Just got a countersunked top deck... hmm interesting.

DJB

iTrader: (17)

Wc reckons not to run the aluminium upper deck supports but can u guys still give me a part number for that piece anyhows. And who would sell it. rainbow ten or speedtech??

WC

iTrader: (28)

Alloy bits always looks nice though.
But they don't stop your wires from rubbing the shaft.


Damned, hobbymania seems to have updated their site & lost their "Square" options page with all the pix.


R10 offers these in stock:-

3733437350231,Square,1400YEN,STB-7 TB EVOLUTION 3 ALUMINUM TRANSPONDER & SERVO STAY,
3733437350237,Square,5460YEN,STB-1 TB EVO 3 CARBON PRO CHASSIS,
3733437350239,Square,2400YEN,STB-6 TB EVO 3 TITANIUM COATED SUSPESNION SHAFT,
3733437350240,Square,1400YEN,STB-3 TB EVO 3 FRONT CARBON STAY,
3733437350241,Square,1540YEN,STB-4 TB EVO 3 REAR CARBON DAMPER STAY,
3733437350243,Square,3600YEN,STB-35B TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM KNUCKLE,
3733437350244,Square,3500YEN,STB-36B TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM FRONT HUB CARIER 5.5,
3733437350246,Square,3200YEN,STB-50B TB EVO 3 64 TITANIUM DOG BONE,
3733437350248,Square,2500YEN,STB-20T TB EVO 3 HEATSINK MOTOR MOUNT,
3733437350250,Square,3500YEN,STB-35T TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM FRONT HUB CARRIER 5.5,
3733437350254,Square,800YEN,STB-30 TB EVO 3 DELRIN SUSPENSION BALL,
3733437350255,Square,1200YEN,STB-27S TB EVO 3 CARBON DIFF SETTIG PALTE,
3733437350257,Square,1400YEN,STB-21B TB EVO 3 HEATSINK UPPER MOUNT BLUE,
3733437350263,Square,1400YEN,STB-7B TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM TRANSPONDER STAY BLUE,
3733437350264,Square,2600YEN,STB-37B TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM REAR DECK HOLDER BLUE,
3733437350265,Square,2600YEN,STB-37T TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM REAR DECK HOLDER TITANIUM COLOR,
3733437350280,Square,2400YEN,STB-25B TB EVO 3 CENTRE POST SET,
3733437350282,Square,3500YEN,STB-142T TB EVO 3 REAR HUB 2.5,
3733437350288,Square,1400YEN,STB-7R TB EVOLUTION 3 ALUMINUM TRANSPONDER & SERVO STAY,
3733437350291,Square,1400YEN,STB-21R TB EVO 3 HEATSINK UPPER MOUNT RED,
3733437350293,Square,3600YEN,STB-35R TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM KNUCKLE,
3733437350294,Square,3500YEN,STB-36R TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM FRONT HUB CARIER 5.5,
3733437350295,Square,2600YEN,STB-37R TB EVO 3 ALUMINUM REAR DECK HOLDER TITANIUM COLOR,
3733437350297,Square,3500YEN,STB-142R TB EVO 3 REAR HUB 2.5,
3733437350327,Square,3500YEN,STB-43B TB EVO 3 REAR HUB TOE IN 0.5 BLUE,
3733437350328,Square,3500YEN,STB-43R TB EVO 3 REAR HUB TOE IN 0.5 RED,


"Center Post Set" but dunno if its red, green or blue.

DJB

iTrader: (17)

hey Wc whose that R10 u mention about. Are they are company like hobbymaina or like speetech?? and should if file the battery holes down if I want to run saddle packs??

WC

iTrader: (28)

Rainbow Ten

Quote:

and should if file the battery holes down if I want to run saddle packs??

Yes you should round the edges and open out the corners a bit, so that the cells are nicely cradled on the chassis; some keep filing until the cells sit flush with the bottom. Coat the edges with superglue.

I do my CF sanding under running water - Sniffing carbon dust is bad for your health. Just use a large file and sandpaper, don't need to bust out the Dremel.


Might want to round all the other edges too... was mucking about on Monday with a brandnew 3mm chassisplate, boy its edges were SHARP!!

devil

i have a few parts on my car which i don't know if there tamiya or something, can anyone tell me who make 3x28mm blue turnbuckles, with the part you put the turnbuckle wrench on 3.5mm big