tamiyarcracer

I'm not sure if I should congradulate you or feel sorry for you!

Welcome aboard!

So are you saying that you didn't look on the Tamiya New Release pages this morning, before the trip to the Hobby shop? I

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Hey guys,

I need a Tamiya track setup and / or a parkinglot setup for next week at TCS in Newark , CA

Help me Help me ......I am slow.......

Rod?


Kevin

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Funny, very funny. And you are?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Hey Kevin, the setup sheet that another person linked to is for the standard evo and not the EvoS. The following is my setup without the drawings

Front:

upper shock: furthest out on tower
lower shock: kit stock
spring: Tamiya Yellow
oil: Tamiya 500wt
piston: 2 hole
swaybar: red
camber: -1.5
toe: 0 degree
downtravel: 6mm measured from lowest point of suspension arm directly below outer hinge pin to setup board.
rideheight: 4.5mm
kickup: Flat - No shims under the front suspension block
wheelbase: Per kit instructions (6mm in front of arm and 0mm behind I believe)
Camber links: Middle setting with 5 mm of shims under the inner ball link. (Surikarn mounts)
Front One-Way/Spool
wheel spacer: 0.5mm (blue) on the front wheels only.


Rear:

upper shock: one hole in from furthest out on tower
lower shock: kit stock
spring: Tamiya Yellow
oil:Tamiya 400wt
piston: 2 hole
swaybar: red
Camber: -1.5
Camber links: long position (inner hole), 2mm of shims under the inner ball link mount. (surikarn mounts)
toe: B block in rear
downtravel: 7mm measured from lowest point of rear hub carrier (near the back) to setup board.
rideheight: 4.5mm
wheelbase: Per kit instructions
anti-squat: Flat- no shims under the rear suspension blocks.

Tires: Take-OffCS27

I hope this helps and let me know if I forgot something.

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

What motor, gearing and body have you been running?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Woops, forgot those:

gear: 96/31 for 8.05
motor: Orion V2 10x1
body: Proline Stratus 2.0

also added the swaybar color to my previous post, they're red.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Is the easiest way to change spurs to pop the rear gearbox off by removing those 4 screws? Looking at the manual and the car itself that's how it appears.

weekendracer_uk

Nah if you do it that way you end up taking half the car apart, i used to remove the rear diff cover ( 3 screws ) pull out the rear diff then carefully get hold of the gear on the prop shaft and as you pull it out you should be able to remove the pin holding the alloy spur gear holder in place, pull the prop fully out and then depending on the size of the spur you should be able to remove it to the side. When using a larger spur you may have to remove or partly undo a few top deck screws.

devil

hi dose anyone have a good foam setup?
thanks peter

Evo_Uk

guys seen a few people running with no centre peices in their cars. what effects will this have on your car? be less stiff..
my mate does it on his sd sometimes too.

also i think reinhard did it when he was testing a 2-3 piece prop.

thanks guys


Tarnjit

f1larry

iTrader: (22)

I saw CHARLIE SUANGKA run his EVO Surikarn at the Novak race without the center brace but he had doubled up the top deck. He said he did this mainly as a weight savings (no center brace and 8 less screws). The second carbon top deck is not as heavy plus the screws were countersunk. The car was pretty stiff with that modification.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

IF you go back 1 page you will find my setup. It works great with a 19T on a tight track. For open mod I would run no kickup, and 2mm spacers under the suspension blocks in the rear, so it will be flat. Everything else is the same. Ride height is about 4-5mm depending on what track condidtions need.

-Sushi Boy

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Hey Mikey, I think I like it! Ran my evo for the first time last night with the setup that was on it when I got the car...very soft for carpet (my thought) and the car was really good. I managed to wual 3rd and finish 2nd to another evo. I did buzz a ring and pinion, but I smacked the hell out of that board. It thought twice about getting in my way again after that It'll be interesting to see what this car does with a stiffer setup and a 19turn.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Jason, I looked through your pinning piece, and had a question. How the heck did you get that battery tab to get in, not push out the back side, and then get the bearing in? I tried wrapping the tab around the bearing first and inserting it...no go... I tried putting the tab in and pushing the bearing in..no go. Any suggestions?

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Gary I used the bearing to shape the tab, then closed it in a little smaller and put it in the tranny case. Then you can spread it out and (here's the trick) start the bearing on the OPPOSITE side of the ends or opening on the shim. If the shim is a "C" shape, then start the bearing opposite of the opening of the "C". Then work your way around until the bearing is fully inserted. It should them slide all the way in ( ). The first time isn't particularly easy but after that it's no problem because the shim has taken the correct shape.